I have a geberit in wall toilet like yours, and when I added a bidet I had to plumb a new water supply line.

You can possibly make a T connection behind the flush actuator buttons, penetrant the cistern tank above the water level, and fish a water line down to bidet height, but it would be much much easier when installing the toilet.

I mean— minus the whole driving to a harbor freight part. OP already has a hammer.

My solution is free, and as a tip it’s generalizable, and something a lot of people don’t know— if you blow through trim with an 18 or 15 gauge brad, bending the nail back and forth until it snaps is a lot less destructive and easier than trying to back it out with a set and hammer.

Jesus Christ. 😂

“The nail will break beneath the plane of the floor”

Leaving the original up for posterity

Probably all in one go on a big power shaper / spindle Moulder. Not something you’re going to have ready access to if you don’t know a guy who makes doors/windows for a living.

That’s for one coat of coverage

800 is a very fair price for a plumber in 2022. If it goes wrong— if you buy the wrong parts, or don’t slope it properly… wouldn’t you prefer it be someone else’s problem rather than your own?

I’m still not following this model of vapor drive and how it interacts with a temperature difference.

A warmer floor will drive vapor away more effectively than a cold floor.

A colder floor will more readily condense atmospheric vapor than a warmer one.

What am I missing here?

I’ve always been hesitant about the slab and earth beneath just acting like a bottomless heat sink for all the energy being radiated into it.

Sub slab insulation should be above code minimum by a bit if you want to not just dump money down the drain, I’m thinking.

Aren’t most shower waterproofing systems— whether they’re elastomeric coverings like red guard or hydroban, or troweled-on barriers like kerdi all class 1 vapor barriers?

Edit: red guard and kerdi are .36 and .9 perms respectively, making them class 2 vapor retarders. Still rather vapor closed, and probably more vapor closed than LVP when looked at as an assembly rather than the perm rating of the center of on plank of flooring.

I wouldn’t trust the neoprene backing on all the LVP I’ve installed to stand up to a hot wire.

Honestly, I wouldn’t trust LVP around a hot wire (but that’s me personally).

You need to call the number on the box and speak to someone with technical familiarity with the product. They’ll tell you what installation methods they’ll warranty, which is definitely what you want.