These look like a great deal. I don't trust Moondroop and the other budget options with all the paint bubbling, face plates falling off and channel imbalance issues. I have more trust in Sennheiser tbh. Maybe I am just biased.

Is the cable at all microphonic, when you wear it underneath your T-shirt, whilst moving? I have been looking for an IEM to use whilst walking the dog, so I'd appreciate your help :)

Ah, then it could also be the HD400S i.e. the wired version of the BT450 afaik.

Cable connection is certainly better in terms of latency, but modern Bluetooth codecs like LDAC or AptX HD are very good quality wise and virtually indistinguishable from a wired connection.

Sennheiser 450BT in black?

Upvote for the Genelec. Great choice.

I'd give another one for the EQed LCD-X but I cannot.

Enjoy your cans, until you open your wallet again ;)

I had to exhale forcefully through my nose after reading that.

This is way too accurate

If Apple sold you a product where every second customer gets a lemon, media and consumers alike would clown on them and tear em apart.

If an audiophile receives a lemon, they just rma it until they get a good one.

Are our standards really that low? I thought we were supposed to be the picky ones?

Maybe, if people stopped buying and recommending Hifiman, they would have an actual incentive to improve their quality.

Then again, people also keep buying Focal even though their headbands snap and pads cost upwards of 200€, so I guess the tolerance for bullshit is unreasonably high in this community.

If onboard audio has no audible noise or distortion, whilst providing enough volume, you don't need an external DAC/amp.

I drive 92dB/mW Noires with a 6mW at 16ohm phone (less powerful than an apple dongle) and going beyond 50% volume is too loud for me :)

Play your music in mono and see whether or not the sound is leaning to one side. If that is the case, I got bad news for you:

Channel imbalance has come to haunt your headphone.

Can be a driver issue, or a simply a pad issue.

I once ordered Dekoni pads for my 660S and one was a lot deeper than the other, so the sound was tilted more towards the shallower ear pads.

To verifiy, whether ot not it is the pads, simply switch them (if possible) between left ant right. And if the sound now leans to the other side, its the pads. If not, its the drivers and you should put in a warranty claim.

Yes, but if thats what you want just use EQ!

Modding the headphone to change FR is an ass backwards way of changing tonality. EQ can accomplish more, whilst being less of a hassle.

Where did you get that nonsense?

The only mod you should do to the 880 is a removable cable mod.

The DT 770 Pro is what one would call V-shaped. This means they have a bass and treble boost. Id recommend playing with a bass shelf, starting at around 100Hz and then just increasing the boost to your preference. You can also set the shelf at lower or higher frequencies, all depending on what you like, but don't go to high and ruin the mids.

Same thing for the treble, just set a shelf starting at 5000Hz or so and adjust boost as well as exact position according to what sounds best to you.

What you are basically trying to do, is to get a V-shape, with "correct" mids.

Also, remember to adjust preamp as to "counteract" your highest boost. So, if the highest boost setting is +12dB set preamp to -12. If the highest boost is +29dB set preamp to -29dB. You get the point. This is to prevent clipping!

Well, using the oratory EQ as a bassline, what would you like to change exactly?

More bass? More treble? Less of both or either?

DONT TOUCH THE MIDS IT WILL SOUND TINY OR MUDDY OTHERWISE :)

If you have identified the "problem" area, just dial in a shelf and boost or decrease it all at once. Easiest and dirtiest way to adjust for treble and bass preference.

Are you sure you are still gaming and not just doing cardio?

Controllers have 3.5mm jacks, no?

Or, you know, put down your headphones?

I don't see the convenience factor of having to keep my device charged and replacing it, once the battery has degraded. Very convenient for the manufacturer tho, as planned obsolescence (i.e. non replaceable batteries) keeps their business afloat.

Aptx Low Latency/ adaptive probably.

I never understood why you'd use Bluetooth for gaming.

I mean, you are sitting perfectly still at one spot, which is the perfect condition for a wired connection.

Closed backs provide noise isolation, open backs don't.

The Noire is more comfortable than the AKG K317 and like it does NOT need EQ, so I bought it. Back when Poweramp did not have PEQ stock tonality was important for my closed backs, which I take with me on business trips and on the train.

I own the 660S and not the 600 or 650, because I got them cheaper. I don't own a DT 880 and use EQ because the DT 880 is uncomfortable for me with its small cup diameter. The 560S was not available back then, otherwise that would have probably been an even cheaper option.

I EQed the 660S to Harman but anything above 10k is basically a free for all and EQing soundstage doesn't work, so obviously the don't sound 100% identical but close enough. Also, the noire has a mid bass hump that adss some punch (I don't get reviewers talking lack of dynamics. Unit variation maybe?). I could EQ that hump away but I don't mind it, gives em some extra character, like the excessive energy above 10k.

There is nothing wrong with buying expensive headphones, just don't expect them to be better because of it. "Detail" and "resolution" being tied to price in a way is awfully suspicious. Also, as long as no one can explain those things properly, thus telling other what to hear for and focus on, they are placebo/bias kicking in.

Soundstage is real and can be a valid purchase criteria if you are into that, but then again, desktop speakers do it better for cheaper, without taking up much room at all.

The Apple dongle has more than enough power for my listening levels, I use my phone with half as much output voltage without any issue. I bought a Fiio K5 for its volume knon, pre out and 6.35mm jack. Cheapest device that ticks all those boxes.

So, any more questions?

Again...

Why brother looking ag impulse response rather than the result????

Are you visually impaired or just unable to understand english?

Well, objectively this is kinda true tho.

They are all audibly transparent DACs. They all sound the same.

Want less piercing treble? Use either a peak filter for specific frequency, or a shelf for to pull the entire treble range down a couple dB.

Oh, ok. You clearly have no idea how headphones work.

All you need to see is the frequency response. Over damping and under damping might affect it, but why even bother looking at it, when the result i.e. changed FR can be measured directly?

Well, if damping is odd and affects sound you will see that in the frequency response graph. Therefore, just skip the damping measurement.

It shows you how damped the driver is. Cool too look at, but irrelevant.

The only two relevant measurements for headphones are frequency response and distortion.

Could also work, but they will affect the sound, so be warned.

You need a headphone with more space for your ears then, or have to switch to in ears altogether.