What jumps out at me is you probably won't have enough for a house down payment unless you live in an area with inexpensive housing. You should be aiming for 20% plus closing costs.

Yeah, this happens every once in awhile with my Capital One account. It usually clears up later in the day.

You will need to research how to file a partial year resident return with Oregon. However there may be W-2 reporting issues because it will show an incorrect split between incomes for each state. You should consult with a local tax preparer who who has regular experience dealing with this issue.

In addition to what the others said, if wife funds a medical FSA, you wouldn't be eligible even if you switch to your own HSA eligible plan because FSA is considered other medical coverage since it can be used to pay for your expenses regardless of what plan you are on.

Yeah in that case it'll be closer to the $4000. But that's why I was asking more about the details of the planned paydown schedule.

It depends on when they pay out on their pay periods, and if you are absolutely sure you started mid-pay period.

My wife had a pay period Nov 14 to Nov 27 that will be paid on Dec 2nd.

It was back of the envelope math, because if you pay it off in 12 equal payments the average balance per month will be approximately but not exactly 50% of the starting balance.

Using an amortization calculator, if you make 12 payments of $8946.74/month you will have it paid off with a total paid of 107360.88 which is 2360.88 interest, which isn't all that far from my envelope math.

The amount of interest you'll pay will depend specifically on when you make the payments. Since interest gets calculated on the remaining principal balance for each payment (the specifics of the calculation depend on the loan type).

If you pay it off evenly then you'll pay about $2200 in interest over a year. If you make minimum payments and lump sum at 1 year it'll be closer to your calculation.

What would be the tax cost for liquidating the stock?

I bought a $25k car (out the door) back when I was making $135k a year. I was very happy with that purchase.

Contact your IRA custodian and ask them their process to recharacterize a contribution from Traditional to Roth.

https://www.bogleheads.org/wiki/IRA_recharacterization

Back of the envelope they'll pay somewhere in the neighborhood of $68k due to taxation of social security, LTCG at 15% and NIIT.

And that ignores things like bank interest and any kind of retirement or investment income.

What everyone else said is correct, and it gets "better" because the capital gains income over $200k AGI will also get taxed 3.8% for Net Investment Income Tax.

Additionally 85% of the Social Security will count as income (and add to the AGI and taxable income) due to the other income.

Recessions and market drops don't necessarily correlate. We may already have the market drop caused from an expected recession. And when a recession happens, people are often optimistic about the future of the market since "it can only get better" which will cause prices to rise.

Your relationship assumptions between a recession and market drops are questionable at best. Not to mention you have 30+ years to keep the money invested so right now will look like a tiny blip at that point in the future and won't make a material difference in the long term.

I harvest losses when I have them. Why wait till the end of the year when losses you had earlier might be gone?

It's because the bank already knows the money is coming from the direct deposit process, which is triggered multiple days before the actual pay date.

Ask again when you actually get your refund. The numbers will have changed by then unless it's coming before the end of the month.

> What if when I retire the market is shit?

You might still have a lot more in your account than what you contributed over the next 20-30 years.

If the market doubles every 10 years for 30 years and then you lose 50% a year later, you're still ahead 4x. That's better than a savings account in the long run.