jewishforthejokes
jewishforthejokes t1_j1o0dpx wrote
Reply to can I stick drywall to walls by covering the whole area with adhesive plaster? (no hollow spots) by Snoo_9017
One reason you dot and dab is so it can squish out and expand as you push the wallboard into place. If you did it like tile, made it really flat first then added grooves, you could get away with it, but it'd be a lot of work.
Unless you have tons of free time, I'd sell the 370 eur of stuff for whatever you get and buy the carpet glue. It won't be worth the aggravation to make do.
jewishforthejokes t1_iyemfyw wrote
Reply to comment by osoALoso in I cannot find a straight answer anywhere: Do I need a vapor Barrier if I’m using rock wool insulation in North Alabama? by RedBeard972
Figure 8 but with vinyl siding is fine, which has insulation in the cavity. Vinyl is far more forgiving of a siding material than stone, brick, or stucco so I presume the author didn't find it worth mentioning. Vinyl has lots of gaps so air and water vapor travel freely and it mounts with just nails so there's no brackets causing thermal breaks, so there's almost no way installing vinyl siding can compromise liquid water and vapor management. OTOH it's trivial to install synthetic stucco and trap water somewhere, causing rot and building destruction.
jewishforthejokes t1_iydulch wrote
Reply to comment by osoALoso in I cannot find a straight answer anywhere: Do I need a vapor Barrier if I’m using rock wool insulation in North Alabama? by RedBeard972
"Frame wall" is wood or steel, both figure 5 and 6 mention sheathing of "non paper-faced exterior gypsum sheathing, plywood, or oriented strand board (OSB)" as do several others.
The article is written using a bit more academic jargon than colloquial terms and is extremely information-dense, so it's not as beginner-friendly as it could be.
jewishforthejokes t1_iybnx1s wrote
Reply to comment by dirtd0g in I cannot find a straight answer anywhere: Do I need a vapor Barrier if I’m using rock wool insulation in North Alabama? by RedBeard972
And... that's why vapor barriers are bad. Air barriers are good. Vapor retarders are good. Use both. Don't use vapor barriers.
jewishforthejokes t1_iuumxyz wrote
Reply to Electric water heater for outdoor shop, supply with garden hose. Any concerns? by syncopator
If you or anyone else ever turns it on without water it will rapidly overheat and self-destruct. Maybe to be safe you could add a solenoid which disables power when there isn't water pressure? Wells have to have a switch which activates when pressure is low, hook it up to a standard $25 open-frame 30A relay.
jewishforthejokes t1_j1o1j0k wrote
Reply to comment by Reelplayer in Acceptable locations for a dishwasher junction box? by Jack_Mackerel
You're thinking of "readily accessible":
> The NEC’s definition of readily accessible states: “capable of being reached quickly for operation, renewal, or inspections without requiring those to whom ready access is requisite to actions such as to use tools, to climb over or remove obstacles, or to resort to portable ladders and so forth.”
Just "accessible" requires not damaging anything, but does allow removing screws.
I'm guessing it must be "readily accessible" and that's why it's usually located in an adjacent cabinet.