dsmaxwell
dsmaxwell t1_j26p105 wrote
Reply to comment by Felaguin in 2-wire motion sensor/light on a 3-wire fixture by Felaguin
Can't tell you that without a diagram or putting eyeballs on it myself. I was having a hard time following your description as it was.
dsmaxwell t1_j26mkxf wrote
I suspect that the red wire goes to the hot input for the pathway lights that now don't work at all. First, check the red wire at the sensor and confirm it does not have AC voltage present when disconnected, then pull the nearest light to the sensor and I bet you'll find the other end of that red wire. A quick continuity test will confirm that.
That being the case, just wire that red line in with the sensor's output and they'll light up just like they used to.
Now, that all changes if you have AC present on that red line with it disconnected, because then they ran 220v to it for who knows why. I strongly suspect they just ran the 220 wire because they intended to use the 4th leg as a separate switched circuit kind of thing, but still on 110v
dsmaxwell t1_is7xeqf wrote
Reply to does anyone know how to trim styrofoam? by friggityfrogg
https://www.harborfreight.com/30-watt-5-in-1-hobby-woodburner-63850.html
Hey, look at that, $10 for a heated x-acto holder.
dsmaxwell t1_j6fr9vw wrote
Reply to Can I drill a hole in this door, and are there open/closable hole caps I can add to both sides? by rolliejoe
Yeah, so if this is a standard 12v wire you're running, try prying off the door trims. I'd bet good money there's at least a half inch of space somewhere in there you could run this wire through to the outside, possibly leaving a small connector inside the wall that you just plug the solar panel and battery into when in use. Something like https://www.harborfreight.com/solar-power-connection-cable-kit-59171.html one of these kinds of connectors. Then just carve out a tiny bit of drywall to allow the trim to sit flush, recaulk and you're in business.