Go to Office Depot or staples. Also, I know there are a lot of folks who print stickers and decals on Etsy. You could see if you can find someone to do it there.

That siding is made to look like tongue and groove boards. It has grooves down the face which give the appearance of individual boards. The 1x8 in the description means that the grooves are placed where the grooves would be if you were using actual 1x8 boards. If it were 1x6, the grooves would be closer together to look like 1x6 boards. This part is purely aesthetic. If you want a different looking style of siding, do it.

The sheet is 4' wide x 8' long and 1/2" is the thickness of the sheet. The 4' x 8' is the most important spec. Those plans call for 350 ft^2 . Each sheet is 32 ft^2 , so you will need 11 sheets minimum (mistakes, and the way the cuts lay out on the sheet might add to that total). The extra 1/8" in thickness shouldn't make a big difference. It will add some weight, that's all.

If it were me, I think I'd follow the angle of the skirt board up to the top of the trim board, so you have a continuous line from the skirt to the base.

You should put in a new post. It looks like the post that's there wasn't installed very deep, or it has rotted through (or both).

Either move the nail so it's in a stud, or use something else for a hook. There are lots of options.

If you don't have a lathe, I would leave the blank oversized when you drill the hole. Then put in the hardware and sand it down while the ferrule is connected. I would get a center finder to mark the blank before you drill. A drill press will help keep your hole straight.

Those aren't designed to hold water. There would be a lot of weight pushing out on the sides of that chest. I'd be surprised if it held together.

I'd probably start with spray adhesive. You could also get self adhesive cork. My guess is that anything you do will need to be replaced from time to time from usage.

How about putting a large picture over it? You could fashion a frame that would cut off light pretty effectively.

That isn't something you can reasonably DIY, IMO. Raising the center of gravity that much would be hard to compensate for. It would need a lot of weight in the bottom, and need to be much wider to keep you from tipping over. I don't know how much, or how wide. An engineer could probably figure it out, it would take ma a lot of trial and error. I don't know of an existing chair that fits those requirements.

You can get center mount drawer slides. You may be stuck with that. As you've found out switching drawer glides isn't easy, or simple. In addition to the void inside the cabinet, meaning there's nothing to hang the glide on, you also have to take into account the clearance of the drawer box and the face frame. Side mount glides will need 1/2" clearance on both sides of the drawer box through the face frame. I can't tell for sure, but it doesn't look like you have that space. Undermount glides are out there, but they all have some space requirements under the drawer box, which I doubt you have. So, unless you want to make new drawer boxes, and make whatever inside structure you need, you're best bet is probably to stick with the center mount glides.

If you search "battery light with motion sensor for cabinet", you get quite a few choices.

Figure out what's wrong first. Is the door warped? Is everything square and plumb? Are the hinges placed right? Bending a hinge is rarely the best answer. A couple of pictures might help.