The best case situation is probably that the property has been condemned or should be and the only reason it hasn't been torn down yet is that it costs money to do so and they'd rather pass that cost onto someone else.

At that point, consider the cost of the land and the cost of demolition to see if the listed price matches up.

Just some notes of interest:

We are at the waning end of a unique point in history where used cars are worth far more than their typical depreciation rate would otherwise indicate they should be. This is not expected to continue. The new car will not hold its value like your current one has, but if you plan to keep it indefinitely, that's not a concern. However, any increase in your trade-in value is probably going to be offset by extras the dealer throws on the new vehicle. In the past, it wouldn't be unreasonable to negotiate $4-5K off the MSRP (although probably not that much on CRVs). That hasn't been the case the last couple years, so the numbers are probably working out more or less the same.

Something you could try, is to price out the new vehicle you want, do all the math considering trade in value, loan payoff, TT&L, cost of interest over the life of the loan, and figure out how much that would be, and then knock $3K off that total and insist to the dealer that's what it needs to be out the door or you're not interested. It's highly unlikely that they'll accept, but you might get lucky and it might make the whole transaction worth it. They're getting some amount of profit baked into this deal, so it's just a matter of how much of it they're willing to give up. It hasn't been a buyer's market for the last couple years, but the waters are a bit murkier right now. Again, probably not going to work to your benefit, but worst case you're right back where you are now, so no loss there.

I could explain in great detail the why and wherefore, but to make it simple for you:

Use the card for everything you can. Pay it off in full before the due date. If you're close to maxing out the credit limit before it's time to make a payment, pay it down early. During this time, your credit score will fluctuate dramatically. IGNORE IT.

In time, the credit limit on the card will increase as you prove to the bank that you can handle the credit responsibly. It will eventually reach a point where your monthly purchases reach about 20% of your credit line, which happens to be the upper bound of where the utilization factor of your score is. Example: If you always spend $1000 a month on the card, eventually (within a year or two) the credit limit on that card will probably increase to 5000. You might have to request the increase, or it might happen automatically. At this point, your credit score will stop jumping all over the place.

As long as the card has no annual fee, plan to keep it forever. You might at some point quit using it because there are better cards out there with more lucrative perks, but you want to use it to make a token purchase at least once per year to keep the account alive, because the average age of accounts is a moderate factor in your credit score and the the older the average gets, the better your score gets.

Seriously though, the only rules you need to follow: Never spend money on a card that you don't already have as cash in the bank, pay all bills in full and on time, and never close an account that has no annual fee. Do this and your score will take care of itself.

Your withholding is based on how much you earn each pay period, not on how much you earn each year (although it should add up to the same unless your income varies wildly. I've done some (very) hasty back of the envelope calculations and made a lot of wild assumptions on your marital status and # of children you're claiming, but there should be absolutely no withholding until your check gross income is $1336. If you have medical benefits, non-roth 401K, or other taxes that are deductible from the federal, then that amount will go higher.