RandomAverages

RandomAverages t1_iy6jhf5 wrote

Similar thing, but after I called the tow truck, I poked around. I had recently replaced the catalytic converter in my Metro, wiggled the O2 sensor wires around a bit, because maybe something shorted out. Sure enough. It started and drove up on the tow truck. Didn’t ever have that problem again.

Then… 2 years ago in my last car, the window wouldn’t roll up without applying pressure to the actual window regulator motor. And I Had to have the door panel off to do that. One hot day after work it wouldn’t roll down, I was getting pissed so I smacked it pretty hard with my utility knife… damn thing worked. No pressure needed. Then I thought, well what about my A/C? It hasn’t worked for 3 years or so, maybe I’ll mess with that, and turned out the connector was bad and it worked sporadically, until I swapped connectors. Well damn.

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RandomAverages t1_iy604v7 wrote

If you can get the bulk up like in the photo and have the 4” scraper as mentioned before, try and turn the blade over to the flat / dull side to get that residual stuff. Sometimes it works better than the sharp side that digs in.

Good news: even if it is asbestos, it’s most likely non-friable, and there is a less likely chance that it’ll become airborne versus cutting with a circular saw, or dry sanding.

https://www.fs.usda.gov/eng/toolbox/haz/haz07b.htm#:~:text=Category%20I%20non%2Dfriable%20ACMs,locked%20securely%20into%20the%20material.

We have used our regular mastic remover after the bulk is up and it will soften. And make it easier to remove, but not sure how much damage the chemical will cause in between the slats.

Good luck.

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