Are you right-hand-loosening it?

>Had one of the other guys take it when I wasn't looking, he was all pissed off because it wouldn't work for him - didn't tell the idiot the fittings were left-hand thread!!!

Back in the day they would take solid oak and put a veneer of exotic imported wood. Yes it was the cheaper version of the time, but it was still hand crafted and zero particle board. Worlds better craftsmanship than modern stuff

Dimmable LEDs tend to require fairly large capacitors for smoothing, so that can cause a quite large inrush current when they are switched on

I'm thinking that's the reason for the "divide by 10" idea (that is on the safe side compared to the labeled rating achieved by OPs dimmer)

In the case of a dimmer they are being switched on and off at 60Hz or more, the load on each cycle is very different than the resistive load of incandescent bulbs (unless mitigated by great circuit design)

Have you looked at modern construction or deck screws lately?

Many have two thread pitches (to help pull layers together and resist unscrewing). Many also have other ridges and wavy shapes to also resist unscrewing

And steel quality has really improved in the last few decades, cheap steel is quite a bit stronger now

Project Farm on YouTube tested various types of screws, and you do get what you pay for to a good degree

Truth. If something is worth doing, it's worth doing right. How do you know you've done something right? By doing it wrong then redoing it :)

It's adhesive to paper... Why not use Emlers white glue adhesive, that's how strong your best drywall compound is going to be, and it will work on tile just as well (aka it won't work at all)

Just because something is an adhesive, doesn't mean it can work as an adhesive on any surface

Believe it or not, a "dumb" switch uses no power, so has no requirement to be hooked up to the neutral. And yes zero would equal zero, which is why neutral isn't required for the switch itself

How easy are drivers to find these days, for consumers? Are there electrical supply places that I should give a call if I need good quality ones?

I've ordered a few cheap af ones to play with from China/eBay, but don't think I'd trust those to be installed in my ceiling (they are designed to unknown safety standards)

Devil's advocate. The integrated fixtures can be designed to handle the heat and light better and produce a product that lasts much longer than many bulbs and illuminates more evenly than bulbs

Albeit you only know you're getting that if you're paying a premium for the fixture...

So my advice is buy brand name/high quality if you're installing a led fixture, and generally in a more classic style that isn't too "innovative", all the issues you mention is a risk, but most of the time this type should last as long as most people are in a house So it's likely someone else's problem at least (classic designs you can find something similar enough to match for decades to come)

A different comment mentioned they can be rated for 50,000 hours, which is over 5 years of being on 24/7

>50,000 hours hopefully

At 8 hours per day, that's 17 years

On 24/7, that's 5.7 years

Compared to any other consumer lightbulb in history, that is forever

I've only had led bulbs fail when they've been in heat-trapping fixtures, which was also from before bulbs started being labeled as either "safe for enclosed" or "not safe for enclosed"

>And don't worry, unless it's falling apart

What about if you're drilling into it, the twist drill pulling fibers out, being blown around by the motor fan, and breathing heavily from the effort?

But yeah, OP don't snort the dust, clean it up quickly and you'll be fine

There is an era where insulation sucked (70s?). Then the early models with auto-defrost and any models with door ice dispensers

But if the insulation (the wall thickness) looks modern and no door ice dispenser, yeah it's likely just as efficient as modern fridges

But it's good to check the power usage on all fridges. The ways they break can cause significant power usage, I've heard of people detecting a failed fridge before losing food by seeing it was constantly using way more power (defroster can get stuck on, thermostat can get stuck on, etc)

We test blood oxygen level pretty regularly too, which is also clinically useful?

That's unrelated to the fact that for a healthy person that it should not vary

I don't know of any heat pumps being used for burners, it would work but expensive initial cost for that application. Especially compared to how well induction works, and insulation on the oven increases that efficiency. Maybe for commercial kitchens, I imagine heat pump deep fryers exist?

Or someone should invent all those (and give me a small percentage of the total income from the idea)

Especially in smaller pieces Plexi is over priced

Frames for poster are often a cheap source for a good size, the cheap ones have very thin Plexi, the mid range ones might be thick enough to survive being outside for a few years (UV is hard on plastic)

And polycarbonate (lexan) is even more overpriced, again due to being more specialized uses

If you were buying a full 8x4ft sheet of them, Plexi is likely cheapest, then glass, then lexan?? But buying in-stock cut pieces, glass is likely cheapest. Especially from a glass/mirror shop, which is in every city