Liquidretro

Liquidretro t1_j6oty39 wrote

Your suggestion that I don't know what I'm talking about is comical based on your limited experience. My mortgage is on all four major credit bureaus reports as are all my credit card accounts. Not every credit agency is going to have exactly the same thing and they don't score things the same but your major accounts should be on your major Credit agencies reports. Why yours isn't I can't answer.

Good luck I hope you figure things out

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Liquidretro t1_j6of1nm wrote

You mean the entire W2 was visible in the envelopes Window?

I don't see any regulations from an IRS point of view. You might see what your state has in terms of privacy or DOL requirements. https://www.irs.gov/instructions/iw2w3#en_US_2023_publink1000308267

While not a good practice I doubt much is going to come from this unless you have some type of other case you are putting together.

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Liquidretro t1_j6o7xr9 wrote

Sounds like you should add a high end suv payment into that list of optional (I would out groceries on the necessity side) priorities and see where it falls.

We have don't have a very complete financial picture to really assess how much you can afford. IMHO part of having a higher income to me means less financial stress when things come up that might give a family with a more average income cause for great stress and concern. I think the easiest way to do that is to live under your means and have a more than adequate emergency fund.

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Liquidretro t1_j6o5gsb wrote

How do you only average $1000 left over a month? Your math in the OP shows you should have more like $8400 a month left. OR were you giving us gross income?

Respectfully it doesn't sound like you guys really know where your money is going currently. That's step one of figuring out what you can comfortably afford.

Personally, I wouldn't try to use all your remaining money, I would want a buffer. It's never a great approach to buying a new car or house by looking at what's the maximum amount of car/house can I afford. Given your username, income, and description of where you are, go buy a Model Y and call it good, you an very easily afford it and should fit right in. I'm unsure why your model 3 doesn't work from your thread 5 months ago. Lots of people in history have gotten by with a sedan and 1 kid.

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Liquidretro t1_j6o3r1l wrote

A Nissan what?

$9k negative equity is a tremendous amount for a student. Rolling $4k plus into another vehicle loan just keeps you in this terrible debt cycle. While the car might not be very reliable long term, I would probably take the chance and keep driving it until you were at least break even and hopefully by then you have graduated and have a full time job. Making a bad financial decision to increase that negative equity on the chance you have transmission issues isn't very smart. It's not using statistics very well either.

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Liquidretro t1_j6o2xgm wrote

That's not very specific. What the error says is going to be important to resolving the error. It's common with anything regarding credit to have to verify yourself usually with some questions about your history. Some of these can be false like it saying you took out a loan when you didn't or very old info. I was just helping a parent with one of these to verify their ID and it asked about a loan 35 years ago.

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Liquidretro t1_j6o1eqq wrote

A $25k car on a net income of $35k is a ton of car overall. The monthly payment amount works because it's a 5+ year loan. Most of us around here suggest you should stick to a 3 year loan or less to "afford" a car.

Do you want to plan to live with mom for the next 5+ years while you pay off this car?

A car in the $10-15k (pushing it) range would be a lot more appropriate long term. Many experts recommend your total transportation cost should be 10-15% of your income. It's guidance, not perfect in all situations but should give you a better idea of where you should be https://www.investopedia.com/how-much-should-i-spend-on-a-car-5187853

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Liquidretro t1_j6o1dmg wrote

A $25k car on a net income of $35k is a ton of car overall. The monthly payment amount works because it's a 5+ year loan. Most of us around here suggest you should stick to a 3 year loan or less to "afford" a car.

Do you want to plan to live with mom for the next 5+ years while you pay off this car?

A car in the $10-15k (pushing it) range would be a lot more appropriate long term. Many experts recommend your total transportation cost should be 10-15% of your income. It's guidance, not perfect in all situations but should give you a better idea of where you should be https://www.investopedia.com/how-much-should-i-spend-on-a-car-5187853

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Liquidretro t1_j6o0dzp wrote

Depending on the age of the car you can still likely get a car loan for a private party sale. Have you actually applied or talked to a banker about a personal loan? The credit hit is minor and doesn't matter if you are not planning on using credit in the next few months.

I dislike 401k loans in general as you are taking money out of the market, and depending on the plan rules may need to stop contribution, might not be able to pay off early, you would have to pay it all off should you be fired or leave before it's paid off, etc. It's also just bad practice to think of that 401k as a place to go get money from when in need. This is a want, not a need, not an emergency.

This is the type of thing savings are for especially when you can replenish in such a short time frame.

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Liquidretro t1_j6nhxbq wrote

Just get the car diagnosed and go from there. Anything more is speculation as it's clear this isn't your area of expertise. Also remember that if it's not a warranty or recall item there isn't a lot of reason to go to the dealer for a car that's out of warranty in many cases. The LS engine has been around forever, lots of independent mechanics can work on it.

If reliability is your concern I would be looking at a Tundra if you could find one and need full size but that's a personal opinion.

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Liquidretro t1_j6nhaea wrote

Georgia is not that much colder then Florida. Yes the occasionally get some ice but that's rare. Toyota Corolla's are generally considered reliable, and without a ton of financial details here it doesn't sound like it would be a great idea to buy a car at the moment. Don't use the move to try and justify a new car that you want because of hills and cold.

I also don't buy the same car is $5-10k less expensive over a state line. You are missing something or the people advertising these prices won't actually sell for that price. If the price is true when the time comes to get the car you drive to get it for that much savings. I have done multistate road trips to get cars before, it can be fun.

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Liquidretro t1_j6nf61r wrote

You should do your taxes correctly, possibly working with a local professional if needed. You might start talking to local lenders to get an idea of what they would require for someone being self employed as you said it can be a bit more difficult than W2 income.

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Liquidretro t1_j6ndnds wrote

Get it diagnosed and see what's wrong first. This could be simple and unrelated (like bad gas, or a gas cap that isn't properly attached). A rock chip on a windshield (Insurance should cover this) and broken taillight are a poor ways to try and justify a new truck. It's not a design flaw it's a thing that happens when you drive them. If you want to save money you can do your own air filters easily with videos on youtube, but I suspect at your income your time may be worth it to pay someone else to do this stuff unless you enjoy it.

If reliability was your primary concern I'm not sure I would pick a GM or Ford product myself, but that's a topic for another thread.

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