In your OP you never mentioned you were doing a backdoor Roth IRA. You should edit your OP. Even then I don't understand why you are keeping it in essentially cash before doing the conversion. https://www.investopedia.com/terms/b/backdoor-roth-ira.asp

As mentioned above the interest goes to shares not dollars.

Yes you should be earning interest but it's one of the most conservative investment options available, so it's not a ton of interest. https://investor.vanguard.com/investment-products/mutual-funds/profile/vmfxx

I don't understand your strategy of contributing to a traditional IRA and then rolling it to a Roth. Why don't you just contribute to a Roth initially? Your max contribution per year is between all IRA accounts, roth or traditional. Can you explain why you are trying to do it this way?

This is all more complicated than it needs to be. Reversing the transaction is dumb in this case and probably not possible and more work for everyone. They should just cut you a check period. If they need to wait a few days for the funds to clear fine, but they should float it given it's their mistake. It makes no difference the employee is gone that did it. Be polite but firm and demand they write you a check.

The USD isn't backed by oil, it's backed by full faith and credit of the government. A very small percentage of oil used in the USA comes from Saudi Arabia these days. https://www.eia.gov/energyexplained/oil-and-petroleum-products/imports-and-exports.php

Saudi Arabia depends heavily on the USA for defense and purchases billions of dollars of weapons a year.

Do some research on the stuff these people are telling you before you try to make financial decisions on it. I wouldn't take world advice or financial advice from these people, they seem to be in deep with conspiracy theories they see on social media.

Strange situation, I would try to escalate with local management. The room rental damage deposit should have nothing to do with your apartment deposit. Two separate things. IMHO they need to give you a better explanation that makes sense as to why. If it's policy show it to me in the rental agreement that I signed, etc.

Use the sidebar wiki here and read the prime directive and budgeting sections and get started with that process.

Remember the downpayment is only part of what you need when buying a house, there is also closing costs, moving costs, and an emergency fund. So if you want to put $30k down, you probably need around $40k? Obviously, this varies.

Have you used the IRS W2 calculator recently to see if your withholding is correct? https://www.irs.gov/individuals/tax-withholding-estimator

The fraying has to be the surface or pathway the cable is taking. In all my years of IT can't say I have ever seen a mouse fail due to a frayed cable without a pet chewing on it.

And new tires since they said they were bald, likely 7 years old with 40k miles on them.

I wouldn't recommend homeownership if you don't like your job and are thinking about moving countries. It doesn't seem like you are ready to settle down and deal with the responsibilities of being a homeowner.

Ultimately it sounds like you need to figure out the work and personal situation before buying a house.

No it doesn't make financial sense to buy a new vehicle when you need $2000 worth of normal maintenance and repairs on a 7 year old vehicle that you drive only 2k miles a year. You barely drive at all. All cars are going to need maintenance, and bad tires is likely the cause of the vibrations. There is no reason you need to be visiting a dealer for any of this other than recalls or warranty work.

Most likely, the value of the car has already factored in the problems that it may or may not have, but step one is figuring out what it's actually worth.

You give us no idea of your financial status other than your credit score is good and that's an important part of can I afford a new car. I also don't understand why you would be considering a Kia if you had issues with Hyundai, they are the same parent company and share many components. The Toyota and Honda seem like much more reliable choices.

I doubt you would see any real savings from a hybrid with the very few miles you drive, and highway speeds. Any savings you did see would surely be eaten up in internet, increased insurance and registration costs from the new car.

Remember for tax credits you have to earn enough to take advantage of them too. Pretty sure Toyota is out of their allocated credits too https://electrek.co/2023/02/03/which-electric-vehicles-still-qualify-for-us-federal-tax-credit/

Why not just open your own new account (Ideally at a different bank) and move a majority of your money there along with your bills and direct deposit? That way you can still give mom and dad money easily and quickly if needed but you are in complete control over it, and they don't have the opportunity to take money that you don't agree to.

Sounds like you also need to set some boundaries with your parents and be ok with saying no.

You can start by getting your own bank accounts in only your name, and originals or copies of all your vital documents like Birth Certificate, SSN card, State ID/Drivers License, Passport, etc.

If you were financially responsible you could get a secured credit card to start building some credit. The more savings you have going into this the better off you will likely be. Most of the places where you can make a career in film, tend to be higher cost of living places. It's not an industry that's known to pay particularly well for entry level or apprenticeships and is very competitive. Good luck going down that road, it's certainly not without a large amount of risk.

I agree but it sounds like they already have a budget category for that, and have a hard time deciding to use it.

Has she reported the fraudulent activities to her bank?

I agree that her physical phone was unlikely to be hacked, but her provider account may have been, she fell victim to some other type of scam. The other somewhat common way is through password reuse.

While this isn't identity theft, there are a lot of things on the guide that would be a good idea to follow here to secure her accounts https://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/identity_theft/

I would stop the taxable investing in your Robinhood until you had your retirement contributions up to at least 15% of income. Your are technically behind on retirement by a good amount (1 years salary by the age of 30), so aim for more while you can seemingly afford it. The value of compounding over time is huge for you.

You can save for a future wedding when there is someone in the picture and your are engaged. I wouldn't keep saving and earmark it for a wedding when one isn't likely in the near term. Until then it makes a great downpayment on a home if you want to be a homeowner. That said this sub doesn't recommend you invest money you plan to need in the next 5 years (short term).

Where is the rest of your money going? I calculated you should see about $3852 a month assuming 2 biweekly checks after 401k contributions. After rent that's nearly $3k that's unaccounted for.

This, I did this for a few years before they offered a HSA card directly.

It's not payrolls job to determine what your personal tax liability is. It's their job to withhold based on how you fill out your W4. I would suggest plugging all your household's info into https://www.irs.gov/individuals/tax-withholding-estimator and based on those results it will tell you how to fill out your W4 which you then give to your company.

I would argue everyone should stay away from MLM's. Don't be a buyer of their products, don't fall into the trap to become a seller. Most MLM's won't say they are an MLM either.

Many financial advisors are really just looking to invest your money while earning front-end fees for doing so and yearly maintenance fees. For many especially younger people or with average to above average incomes this is easy to DIY and avoid those fees thus maximizing your money and compounding ability. If you don't want to take the time to learn about mutual funds, you can invest in target date funds and broad market index funds that do the work of actively managed mutual funds for significantly less in fees.

Financial planners can make sense, if there is something complex or if someone wants to check up on what they are doing. Financial advisors might make sense with over 6 figures of investable assets (excluding 401k I would say) or when you have a complex tax situation you need to bake in etc.

I don't like the doctor or preventive care analogy because most people don't need the expert when it comes to basic investing as it's become very easy and low cost in recent years.

Not sure what to tell you but you need to find more info on what the debt is from and then validate it that it's genuine.

Roth is a sub account type of both IRA and 401k and some others so it's important to clarify exactly what you mean. There is no income limits for a traditional IRA. If you want to contribute more to retirement your 401k's would be a great place to increase if your income is over the income limit for a married couple on a roth IRA. You can each contribute $22,500 to a 401k in 2023. You also have stuff like a back door Roth IRA conversion to look at too. Maximizing your tax advantaged accounts before you taxable invest is the optimal way.

The wiki here also has a flowchart that I think you will find helpful on the order of operations. Index funds and target date funds are great places to invest within these and other account types. I don't see a need at this point to pay an advisor 1-2% a year to give you similar advice when most people can DIY these days with a few hours work if that.

This, it's also unclear who OP owes the money to, it sounds like the school directly. Not sure what the expectation was about the military covering thing proactively.

Nor do we really understand why this is a priority all a sudden. If the time constraint is that the old school needs paid before they will release a transcript so they can start at the new school this will need to be figured out first. This isn't an uncommon problem.

OP Needs to explain the situation in detail because we don't know the situation or the poster enough to infer the details.

What industry are you in?

Do you have investment restrictions or something that is preventing your from a more DIY approach? Most people don't need an investment advisor at the stage I think you are in.

I second the wiki as linked to by /u/Werewolfdad

Ya I would wait to talk to the university directly on this and see. I find it odd this would pop up 16 years later which is over the statute of limitations in most places if it was back from 2007 or earlier.