An experienced electrician was blinded at my work when he accidentally stuck a screwdriver in a live 480V panel so for a DIY'er to mess with live inputs is crazy IMO.

Sees like the drug lab guys do it though, bypassing the meter but perhaps they are already living in the edge.

I was just called up in CA and found out they changed the rules (or could be my county). Used to be it was an automatic pass if employer did not pay but now you have to go in front of a judge and plead your case or plead poverty I suppose. Its complete bullshit, no one should lose money for serving. They should just force all large employers to pay and subsidize the smaller ones.

Yeah, when they were caught ignoring pleas from academia to do something about the lead in Michigan I pretty much wrote them off.

This didn't even seem to get much press, I think I saw a Frontline on it.

Same BS with the FDA. Our government is just about hopelessly corrupt and/or inept.

I put in a radiant barrier in my attic and I verified attic temp reduction of 20F at the insulation. Best $100 I ever spent.

True that it only reduces upstairs living space about 5 deg but that's misleading. It basically eliminates evening heat soak. Before house actually got hotter from about 5pm onward. The other advantage is that before if I turned on AC at 3pm, it would basically never make any headway. Now I turn it on at 3pm and 30 mins its almost at the thermostat setting because my evaporator and ducting is in attic.

When temps are above 85f my neighbors turn on AC at 1pm and they run pretty much constant whereas I almost never use AC anymore unless there is a string of 100 deg days which is rare.

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I considered attic fan (I have a big gable vent) and came to same conclusion that they don't really work. Ridge vent is better but also has issues.

So I went through this exercise years ago, I installed lots of trim in my house and painted with colors so cutting in would be very time consuming and stressful. In fact with base or chair rail its nearly impossible to cut in when painting wall after trim - I had a pro tell me in this case they paint the wall first, then chair rail, then wall under chair rail then base (top to bottom method). The problem with painters tape is that its designed primarily for easy releease so its made from crepe paper - thus no chance of blocking seepage.

There are tapes made from smooth almost plastic like backing at the home centers (Scotch). The one I used is also blue and I just looked it up, seems they may have changed the name from what I have, now they call it sharp lines. This will make a huge difference as long as the surface you are taping to is perfectly clean and not too textured.

I tried the Frog tape once and spent hours applying it and next morning it had all fallen off, I think the adhesion is really low.

You can buy kits but I'm told they are much more expensive than buying separate.

I bought the little red bins every time I went to Walmart and labelled them for each size of bolt #4 up to 3/8". I actually did separate bins for the washer, bolt and nut but I think this was stupid, can just group together. Screws are a bit more difficult since so many types, just keep them in the box they came with.

Main thing is every time you buy a bolt get the package that has 10-20 pcs. Its much cheaper per unit than the 1-4 pcs and the trip costs you much more than the bolts.

Take a look at Mcfeelys, they have lots of organizing bins etc.