This was my experience, too. It’s a fun build, but it does have a bow. I added 3/8” thick bumpons on the corners and two 1/8” thick bumpons on the middle edges. That really helped with the sag. I ordered the real bricks on the Lego website and I’m going to try to rebuild it with those.

I put in Aquakings and clear Drop polystyrene keycaps and I think it looks and sounds pretty good.

Just a quick outline, but this is what I do:

1. For each project you have responsibilities for, create a project plan to lay out the project timing line and tasks. This can be a subset of the larger project plan focusing on your areas of responsibility. I use a simple spreadsheet for this.

2. Prioritize the projects and the tasks. Discuss with your boss if there are conflicts or the priorities aren’t clear.

3. Create an overall execution tracker with the tasks prioritized and the expected completion date. Keep it focused on daily/weekly execution, but also keep in mind the overall schedule and project commitments.

4. Set up weekly meetings with the team lead, your team, and key stakeholders to review progress, help needed, and commitments. The teams may already have regular meetings set up, but if they don’t, you’ll have to do it.

5. Set up regular meetings with your boss to review progress and make sure your priorities align with the business priorities. This should be a formal 1:1 to make sure progress and priorities are fully discussed.

6. Provide a weekly written summary of your progress to the team leads, your boss, and any key stakeholders.

That’s interesting, and a little sad, because it discourages people from commenting—even if it is just one downvote.

I often wonder if it’s a bot or just someone so angry about the state of mechanical keyboards these days that they go in every day and downvote everything.

A quick check at Divinikey shows the 7305s are wider. Those may work better. If anything, I’ve always had the opposite problem with the pcb holes being too small.

For mounting, I always have some new cheap switches I put the sockets on and mount a few of the switches at a time to solder the sockets in. That way if I mess up and get solder inside the socket with the pin, I can just throw the switch away.

I think the problem with the switches is that the moisture causes the metal contacts to oxidize and that would make them unreliable.

Although, now that I think about it, I’m probably being overly cautious. The caps cover the stems and unless the switch housing had a crack or hole, water wouldn’t really be able to get in from a small spill.

1. Pull all the switches and completely disassemble the board.
2. Make sure everything is completely dry.
3. Test the pcb outside of the case. Also try a new cord in case the cord is damaged.
4. If it doesn’t work, you can buy a used barebones Alt on eBay for $60-$80 or so. (On Drop a new pcb is $65, but they’re not in stock).
5. If you reuse the switches, test them as you go—water may have gotten inside some of them, too.
6. If it all sounds like a lot of work, you can always just get a new board and switches and reuse the stabs and caps. There are some better 65s out there now. Think of it as an opportunity to get something a little more up to date like a Q2 or NK65.

Yeah, mine had extra foam in it, too. Anyway, congratulations on your free keyboard!

That’s a good story. Mine was that I ordered a “like new” Pro from the US Amazon warehouse and when it came it would turn on but wouldn’t register the key presses. So I took it apart and found that someone had reassembled it with the cable to the daughter board reversed. When I turned the cable around it worked fine.

As for keeping it, if you like it with the caps and brown switches, I’d say keep it. The Keychron boards are ok, but I don’t think they sound as good as a Pro, although it’s possible you might like it more.