Any reasonable temperature where wax is still wax instead of vapor will not negatively impact mica powder.

I know it's not your question, but you shouldn't use it in candles with wicks because the powder will end up clogging the wick, which negatively impacts performance.

Idea:

Put it in the open position as far as it'll go. Clamp it for now so it can't move while you're messing with it. Drill a hole in the corner of the top triangle thing and the moveable leg (same hole -- lower left hand corner in your picture). Run a bolt through the hole you just drilled. Either use a nut (for more difficult removal) or a wingnut (for easier removal) to hold the bolt in place.

Now the leg can't move and the holes should line up every time you open it.

It can be. If you're lucky it's just drywall. If the studs themselves are askew then it's a huge problem. If it's just the drywall sticking out then, sure, you gotta replace the drywall but it doesn't automatically mean there's structural problems. Don't get me wrong, there could still be structural problems, this isn't a hard "it's fine" if it's just drywall bowing.

The $20 ones are usually fine for finding studs.

You have to use something else. Maybe something like this https://www.amazon.com/Picture-Hangers-Shelves-Planters-Decorations/dp/B07XD8CQBN/ (example, not endorsement, do your research)

Caulk is not glue. Do not use glue, especially in a rental. Any glue that's strong enough to hold a nail in drywall will cause more damage when it comes time to remove the nail than if you had used a proper anchor in the first place.

You might be getting some inductive current from the oven circuit caused by the wires being too close together (or maybe even wrapped around each other for some unknown reason). If that's the case there's really not much you can do if you're not willing to open up the walls and separate the wiring.

Also in a case of critical irony, Marvel successfully argued that mutants aren't human in court so they could avoid the extra import duties on action figures (humans were more expensive to import than non-humans).

So, you know, literally the exact opposite of the entire point of the x-men comics.

It's a matter of time and attention. The longer you can make it take and the more attention gets drawn while doing it the safer it will be.

Upon looking at the product in question, two things come to mind.

First things first, the clamps. A plastic molded thumb turn is great and all, but super easy to undo if you can access it. Fortunately this is super easy to fix: Jam nuts. Get two nuts that match the threaded rod. Run them up to the bottom of the thumb turn. Now get a pair of wrenches and tighten those nuts as hard you can against each other. No risk of damaging the thumb turn and no way to undo the thumb turn and unclamp the cover without using a wrench to un-jam the nuts. Best part is that the nuts are super cheap, this retrofit will easily cost you all of $4 and make it more annoying to deal with the cover even after cutting through it.

But the main problem is that the fabric will not, cannot, stop or even meaningfully delay forced entry. Any yahoo with a pocketknife can just cut a slit and get right in. So my first initial thought was ... chicken wire. Or better yet, welded wire fencing. For $50 you can pick up 50 ft x 40 inch rabbit guard wire fencing from Tractor Supply, which should be plenty for what I have in mind. Go to a big box home improvement store or a farm store and see what's available.

You'll have to figure out some way of securing the fencing to the framework of the cover. I'm thinking a small diameter drill bit and using wire ties. Drill a hole straight through the support bar, wire through the holes, twist around the fencing, and there ya go. Since the fencing is flexible you should still be able to open up the back like you're supposed to.

With the wire fencing on the underside even if someone slashed the cover they could probably still bend the wire to get their hand through (depending on the size of the grid), but they're not pulling anything out of the bed through it. If they had enough time and privacy they could cut slits, bend wire out of the way, and unhook the cover from the bed... unless there was something preventing them from unscrewing the hooks, like a jam nut.

Sure, if someone had time and motivation they could get through the wire fencing pretty easily, but the only thing that can really stop a determined thief is being there and stopping them yourself.

The cost to demolish a driveway is usually somewhere between $2 and $6 per square foot. So you could reasonably expect to save somewhere between $2400 and $14400 off the contractors bill. Possibly more if your location is particularly annoying or if the contract you end up going with has a "I really hate demo work" cost built into their quote.

There's a lot of factors that go into it, hence the hugely widely variable cost.

Really the only way to be sure is to get a quote with and without demo.

If the vacuum pipes are more or less solid then probably the easiest way would be to get a plastic grocery sack or small wad of cloth. Tie some twine or fishing line to it. Shove it in one end (should be loose but take up most of the cross-section, you do not want it packed in) and go to the other end with a shop vac and suck it through.

Then you can tie the cable to the twine and pull it through. No reason not to keep a length of twine in the pipe for future runs.

boiled linseed oil can combust in crumpled up rags because the curing process is exothermic - it makes heat. So a crumpled pile of paper or rags might insulate it enough for the heat buildup to reach the ignition point and FWOOSH! It's also an oxidation reaction, so yes, keeping it sealed up tight will negate that issue.

I can't find anything about what specific plastics you can store boiled linseed oil in, just be aware of what solvents and siccatives are used in the specific brand you're getting and make sure that they're safe for polypropylene and you'll probably be fine. I'd recommend storing them on a metal tray and inspect the plastic before use, just in case. Also UV can cause chemical changes in the boiled linseed oil, so you'll want to store them inside something light-proof anyway.

It'll look terrible but all you have to do is make the base of the chair taller so the robot bumps against it / can see the obstruction.

If there's enough clearance between the base and floor you could try zip-tying pool noodle to it. That should be about the easiest, cheapest way to do it without permanently modifying anything.

So the filter is in that short brown box between the furnace and the duct that goes all the way to the floor?

It probably should be pointed left. It goes like this: Air Return/Intake -> filter -> furnace with blower -> ductwork to individual rooms. You typically do not have filters on the output, only the intake. The duct that goes all the way down to the ground is almost certainly the return air duct. The arrow on the filter is the direction of air flow.

Easy way to tell is when the furnace is running (or you manually set it to fan-only mode) you open up the tray, take out the filter, and stick your hand in there. You'll be able to feel the air flow. You need the filter both for air quality reasons and to protect the blower from grit in all the wrong places, but running it for a minute or two without the filter won't cause a problem.

It is entirely plausible, nay, likely you have a combo furnace + cooling that uses the same air handler. If that's the case then you'd only have the one filter since it would use the same intake either way. See that black-wrapped pipe about 4/5ths of the way up and the copper pipe about 1/2 way up? Those are probably refrigerant lines for cooling. Easy way to tell is to set your thermostat in such a way that the AC turns on. Now check that furnace to see if the blower is on. If it is then there ya go.

Your AC unit almost certainly does not pull in outside air. The outdoor unit condenses the refrigerant and cools it off with the radiator-like structure and giant fan. That liquid refrigerant gets pumped to the indoor unit where it boils through expansion (thus cooling down) inside another radiator-like structure and the air handler blows air through the very cold radiator, thus cooling your house. Household units, even window units, typically do not bring in outside air.

I'm a big fan of Stick. Wrap the loose end around a big fat stick and hold onto the stick instead of the rope.

Mechanical advantage also works great. Let's you tension a heck of a lot more without putting as much hurt on your hands.

Some might, some might not. Probably depends on local code.

The "overflow cap" might just be a backflow preventer (so you don't accidentally suck gross hosewater into your house's water supply), but it's probably part of a frost-proof hose bib.

If there's a hose attached unhook it. Now run the water for a bit, it only needs long enough to get a full stream. Now turn it off as fast as you can. If the water stops running the moment you close the valve then you need to take further action to winterize it. If the water keeps running for a second after the valve is fully closed then congrats! You have a frost-proof hose bib. The water empties out of the outside bit and you have a significantly reduced risk of freezing.

As long as it doesn't get too cold and for too long, you can get one of those styrofoam insulation covers for your spigot, even if you don't have a frost-proof one. Otherwise ask your neighbors and see what precautions they take.

It's called a "cam lock" -- something like this https://www.amazon.com/Eccentric-Furniture-Connecter-11-8mm，12-12-2mm，12/dp/B09WN26Z41/

Biggest tip for making the holes yourself? Make a jig. A piece of L-Shaped wood with the holes pre-drilled and your drill bits pre-marked so you don't drill in too deep (or better yet, depth stops).

It'll probably take a few tries on some scrap wood to get the spacing and depth exactly right, but once you do the jig will let you get it perfect every time.

I have no idea if it will actually help your situation or not, but I had a similar problem where sometimes I'd have to jiggle the key around to get it to turn sometimes.

I lubricated the lock and it's been fine ever since. There was some buildup or something inside the lock that was jamming it up sometimes.

You want some sort of dry lubricant and you absolutely 100% DO NOT USE WD-40. You can probably find a "lock lubricant" at a local hardware store.

Might help, might not. Worth a shot.

>Is the gargling potentially caused because by the double sink

Yes. Perhaps installing it knocked some crap loose inside the vent stack and clogged it.

>What does adding a vent look like? Looks like it is a major task

It's either relatively easy or very much not a DIY thing if you have to ask the question.

First things first, when you took out the sink in the first place was there something that looked like this? https://imgur.com/NYtQ9NS A weird vertical column topped by something with a little clearance under the counter as possible.

That's an "air admittance valve" -- you need to check with your local government because they're not to code everywhere. It's probably to code, especially if there was one there before, but it might not. Best to check. Basically, it's a one-way valve that lets air in but not out. It lets you drain properly without letting sewage gasses into the room.

If there wasn't something like that then you 100% do have a vent already. Somewhere on your roof you have one or more of these: https://i.stack.imgur.com/K3r2S.jpg That's the vent. Your drain pipes inside the wall will have a T-junction, one side going straight up to vent through the roof and the other side going down to the sewer/septic. If you have to install one yourself... that's the "very much not DIY territory." You'll have to open up the walls, penetrate your roof and properly seal it to keep water from leaking in, you have to get code inspections done. Sure, it's possible to do it DIY, but it's not really plausible unless you already do that sort of thing for a living.

Standoffs. There's lots of different kinds.

Probably the easiest is to slice a small chunk of 2x4 off the end of a board and stick it between that thing and the wall when you're mounting it.

But it's all the same in the end, a rigid piece of something that goes between the wall the thing and the mounting screw goes through it.

It's probably spring clips of some variety.

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Recessed-Lighting-Accessories-Stainless-Bathroom/dp/B0B6VWYS9R/

Basically the spring arms get put through a little slot and they want to spread out thanks to the spring. As you push the face of the light against the ceiling the springs do spread out and hold it snug. As you pull it down those little loops on the end will catch on the slot but you should have enough clearance that you can reach in and squeeze the arms together and fit everything through the slot to remove the light plate entirely and gain access to the bulb.

Try rocking it back and forth to feel if there's a pivot point. If there is it's probably where those spring clips are, there's probably only 2. If it is spring clips you should be able to just pull down with a couple of pounds of force and that'll be that.

It could also be some sort of twist lock, but probably not with a square fixture.

It might not be exactly these, but they're this kind of shelf pin: https://www.amazon.com/IKEA-Billy-Shelf-Pins-131372/dp/B07MYTBQV8

The idea is that you put the pins in the armoire and the shelf drops onto the rounded bit, locking it into place. That way the shelf can't slide off the pins.

And actually it might be those, do you know if your friend got it from ikea?

UV takes too long to really do anything to the air (like 5+ minutes depending on the volume of the space), unless you have some absurdly overpowered lighting going on. I'm guessing that you're finding suggestions to point at the evaporator coil to keep junk from growing on the coil (which gets wet thanks to condensation) and thus contaminating the air, rather than trying to kill any bacteria in the air.

>I'm also debating adding a layer of activated carbon to the intake filter.

You'd be better served buying a higher quality filter, perhaps one that already has activated carbon built in. Putting the carbon on yourself probably won't help as much as you'd hope as the carbon will clog up the pores it settles on and then the air that gets through will go through other pores, avoiding the carbon. Sure, it might help some, but a higher quality filter will help more.

You probably wouldn't install it anywhere in that electrical panel. It's usually a good idea to keep low voltage away from high voltage - if for nothing else, than to minimize RF interference that will degrade your signal.

Get a separate outdoor junction box and mount it to the wall. Then you can pass the cable through the wall there.

Not really. It's gonna spark as you make the circuit. It's pretty inevitable. The circuit is complete ever so slightly before the metal makes contact because the voltage is enough to jump the air gap which is the spark you see.

Normally you don't really see it due to the angles involved (leaning over to plug something in at shin height) or because you're plugging in a device that's turned off and so the circuit doesn't complete until you manually switch it on.

As long as it's fully inside the outlet and only happens when you plug/unplug something, it's probably fine.

Provided that the hole count in the sink itself match up, super easy.

You don't need thread tape. The way that kind of supply line works is there's a little rubber washer sitting inside the connector and when you tighten it down it squashes down on the pipe and forms a seal. The threads don't have to be sealed since they have nothing to do with holding in water.

It's all pretty simple and straight forward.