Keyword, slow you can do a lot of iterations by prototyping. When you offer a product for sale you assume you got it right. Any rush to iterate usually comes from 2 things. 1. It's a disappointment and doesn't perform like you expect. 2. The product has been out long enough that sales have leveled or dropped off and you think a new iteration will boost sales again.

Think Blessing vs Blessing 2 vs Blessing 3. The B2 came out within a year of the B1 because it was a disappointment. Whereas the B3 is coming out almost 3 years after the B2.

The Zero hasn't been out for very long. It's hardware has already been tuned by Crin. It's sold reasonably well. While it is entirely possible that it is either a new release or SE with a different tune based on the zero hardware. The typical reasons for something like this don't really apply.

I don't know know it looks generically pie/arrow shape. Maybe a little more Zero than some others. But along those lines it also looks like it could be something from 64 Audio.

Just joshing about the whole Crin already tuned it portion. But even as someone as prevalent in the Reviewer/Tuner world. Reproaching your own work this quickly would be a bit odd.

Wait your working theory is that the super secretive Project Red is a Crin retune of an already released product that Crin tuned?

Yeah in that case a dud. Maybe miss wired from the factory or driver is separating or something.

Aren't they just a cladded up PC38x. No way they should sound anything other than clear, decently detailed, though not Bassy device.

Either a dud or what is more likely is that your hearing adjusted to the audio in your nova set. The best tip is to use the H6 for a week without using the nova, then try the nova.

I think the big problem is that if I am right neither are a good backup for the other because their quality and FR differences.

If its not a source issue and always the same side. You should check the nozzles and make sure oneside isn't holding an ooze of earwax.

It's a little hard to describe because I don't produce that much and when I do earwax in my nozzles its more of like a rocky crystal rather than a soft goop. But I know people can have that issue with buds and IEM's. Could be one ear is over producing it and is muffling the audio on one side.

It's possible and the next guy might be closer to right that it was a full inventory clear. But it wasn't just about getting rid of cheap unsold switches as suggested.

That might be the case. It was obvious it was new stock because of how all shipments for a given day were the same switch. I figured it was purchased specifically for the event. Not just clearing stock of cheap switches.

Mostly their references. They didn't talk about a new driver design, they talk about changes to the voice coil and a few tone changes. So older driver. Then it's the change to a resistance matching the rest of 600 series. It might not be a retune of the exact driver in the rest of the lineup, but it's still f that lineage and therefore most of the dev cost has been long paid for.

It works like ANC, which is inputting the same noise at an alternating frequency cancelling the original noise out (they use microphones to pick up the noise.

So in this case they use an alternating frequency to cancel out each other's noise leaving just the main audio package. So twice as much noise generated but it eliminated itself. The result is basically an emi shielded signal. Huge over simplification, probably using the wrong wording, and my interpretation of the science is probably a bit wrong. But yeah the two separate signals eliminate each other's noise.

Yeah, I mean its $.22 per switch at that price. While there maybe switches you can get that I wouldn't use on a board even if they were free. For the most part there isn't a real negative throwing a $20 bill on some random switches. I did get last year a 110 pack of V2 Black Inks so there is an opportunity for a really good selection, its not the near 0 it sometime is implied. Its as much an marketing move (sell some switches at a loss to put the business in peoples head), as an inventory clear. It was pretty obvious by how they shipped and packaged them last year they actually purchased switches for the event.

This isn't Idobao pretending they are shipping keyboards and even when they snuck in a keyboard (Hipyo) it was their smallest keyboard (40%).

Well there is some give and take here. Balanced should probably used any chance people get. 1. While the audible effect is low, the science is accurate, balanced should give you a lower noise floor (even if any particular amp has a pretty low noise floor). 2. The implementation results in more power.

So yeah while I would say that assuming decent design matched between the choices, you aren't really going to be able to tell a difference. I think (without getting into silly snake oil about cabling since you can get balanced relatively cheap) there is a comfort in knowing you are cancelling out on noise along with the increase in power, giving you more confidence in your selection.

Note: I am mentioning because it has a Amp with balanced. I wouldn't suggest someone design their whole audio setup around the idea of going balanced. But a think a cable swap for an IEM (specially going with one with interchangeable connectors) is a value + option.

To me this an obvious value move by Senn. Lets look at the HD660S, It's the same build but with a more expensive driver, using the one from the HD700. Besides being a more expensive driver but after the HD700 got discontinued, and it was still poor seller when it was available, its only the HD660s using it (with the HD800 and its kin using a different driver based on the ideas of the HD700). The $500 it originally sold for made sense. It was more expensive to produce even if a majority of the build was similar. But its still been the poorer seller and now is available at HD600 cost for the most part.

The HD660s2. It's in a family of $200-$300 headphones. It's using a recently reworked version of the typical HD600 family driver. So while there is some R&D to recoup. Its basically a HD600 tuned to be sound like a HD660s, with a bit more bass (compared to the S1).

If it was a full on replacement for the 660s and priced at the current going rate of the 660s or lets say a slight premium like $350. It might be a decent selection. A 660s with more HD600 characteristics (like the veil) and resolution. But at $600, you got 98% of sound with a $200-220 HD6XX, or you get a similar tune but with better resolution out of a $280-$300 HD660s. There is a debate of whether its general quality alone would in theory for a person looking for exactly it would be worth paying $600 for. But as a member of the HD6** family. It is an absolutely poor fit. The 660s has value for being a similar tune with a more proficient driver at half the cost and the rest for being so similar in drivers that the only major difference is tune and them being between half and a third of the cost.

I was just saying it's not just limited to MMCX they offer .78mm 2 pin set as well for the non-MMCX IEMs.

The second part was just that most people suggest getting the MMCX anyways even if you have a 2 pin IEM, because it can still swivel with an adapter (and get a better fit) whereas a normal two pin can't always adjust well enough to fit comfortably.

To second this. FIIO has 2 pin options as well for the UTWS5, so you don't always have to get MMCX IEMs (though it's recommended to get the MMCX and the MMCX to 2 pin adapter so you can still adjust the IEM angle).

Hey sorry wanted to get back to you earlier but never remembered when I had time.

IEM - Stand for In Ear Monitors. Basically a way of saying wired ear buds. Though while there are Audiophile "earbuds" which are what they call IEM's without a detachable cable.

The trick with headphones and IEM's vs. Their gaming and BT brethren is that creating and shaping the audio of a new driver can be pretty expensive. For IEM's thats the entirety of the R&D. For companies that have been around forever, good sound doesn't go bad. A DT990 or Sennheiser HD 600 have been around 30+ years because they were good for their job and never stopped selling. So you have the bonus of experience making drivers for the discerning ear you can build off your creations. With the counterparts, the driver is one of the last things to get designed. They might even design them every series or two because they have a new style or look and they need a driver that will fit it. But not only is one of the last, it might be ok if they put more resources into it but they don't put nearly as much as the sound guys. Even with the sound guys, you have manufacturing cost targets that might preclude using the best drivers. So for example. Sennheiser makes great wired headphones, and their BT stuff might be some of the better BT stuff, their BT stuff doesn't sound nearly as good as their wireless because even in manufacturing costs they need so much room for all the electronics and features. Meaning that you get one of their cheaper, easier to make drivers.

So anyways. My main point is one of these audiophile grade earbuds might be a great solution because they take up less space around your desk, good ones are solidly in your head, and tend to do better without an external amp.

MMCX is just a connection type. There are two solutions 1. 2 Pin, its a straight two pin connection into the cable. Less likely to break, but doesn't swivel (for better seals) and can be less secure to the bud (easier to fall out). MMCX is baised on the little wireless antenna's in your laptop connection where one side is captured like a bearing and it can swivel around. If you aren't careful when removing the cable you are more likely to damage one side or another and if its the earbud side you basically have to write it off. There are a lot of aftermarket cables for both. But with my MMCX with Mic cable, it was one of like 3 I could find. Much more out there for the 2 pin. You just need to pay attention to which type of cable it is when you purchase your IEM (assuming you do).

If you want to go this route give and want some suggestions at different price levels, feel free to PM me.

Get a Rhode or Blue yeti or something like that if you like a standalone mic. If you like the idea of a headset with an adjustable mic attached get something like the 3.5mm Modmic and attach it to your chosen headphone.

As for Headphone. Want insane positioning, get a HD 800s (this is insane, don't do it, but it is the best). Second best would be like a DT1990 (still overkill) or a PC38x (with that having the advantage of having a mic, so no mod mic needed, but then a single issue and you have no headset, but its all wired so unlikely under decent treatment to have an issue). Third tier would something like a DT990, Hd 560s. But honestly positioning is only real useful if you are the best at everything else. If you like movies or music maybe get something that fits your music style and enjoy it all the time.

An often missed solution though would be some midfi IEMs and a replacement cable with integrated mic. You get better sound quality for the dollar generally on the plus 20-$150 range and honestly the mic on the cables are pretty decent. Audio is more closed in, but more direct with the least amount of noise to make it harder to pick out sounds. Plus they can be driven from just about anything. Something with a slight V shape tune would be best. I use 7hz timeless, but there are millions of options and if you want to go cheap to see if you like idea you can get something that sounds fantastic for $40-50 and like 8-15 for a cable (it can be a little harder to find a good cable with a mic for MMCX connection IEMS).

I do optical out to some kind of device. Bedroom TV I feed to a BT transmitter. In my office/gameroom I use a Dac (schitt Hela), USB-C to my computer, optical from my TV, out to a pair of speakers, I can go from headphone to speakers in a moment and switch between TV and computer with a quick switch. In living room optical out to amp.

Just need to decide if how you want to configure it.