I love it. I haven't been surfing but this exactly how I pictured it.

Actually trying to take surfing lessons this year, keep riding the wave my bros

Time on the water gives you time to think.

I took a surfing lesson at the end of last year and had a horrible experience. I haven’t touched a board since and have only really gone knee deep in the water since (and I’m at the beach almost everyday). I’d always wanted to surf, and I borrowed a board and had a blast a week before I took the lesson . . . Then good god, I got a fucking psycho as an instructor and completely lost interest (I really want to try again though).

Idk why I’m telling you this, I’m really not trying to put you off or anything. Just . . . Take your time and research your instructor (that really goes for anything you get lessons in though, doesn’t it?). Don’t be like me and pick for stupid reasons, make sure it’s somebody known for being good with beginners. With all that said, I hope you do take lessons (with a good instructor!) and have fun.

[removed]

[deleted]

[removed]

Thanks for sharing. Seems a bit like what Shawn Achor talks about in wiring the brain towards happiness. Train the brain to look for opportunities instead of catastrophes, and it will notice more opportunities over time.

You can learn to surf at your own pace you don't need people yelling and belittling you. However it can be good to have someone to observe you and point out improvements you can make you paddling technique, popping up etc. Just watch heapsa guides

The theory of surfing underwater has been critically critiqued by infamous Immanuel Kant, and his sister Candice Kant.

[removed]

"Here's a list of things that one day you won't know you've missed Naked in the river, watching planets as they kiss Surfers in the sunlight, dances on the sea Nothin' on your mind, spirit so free" - Karl Wallenger

One of my favorite tunes that includes surfing....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LHiOb1toqGc

[removed]

But why are so many surfers such dickheads?

Real estate.

They know what they have in the ocean, and don't like people running into them.

It's a double edged sword.

This was such a great read! Thank you!!

I teach windsurfing and i find my most important task for the first few lessons is to encourage people. It's so hard to do all the things at the same time right and it's easy to get discouraged falling in the water time and time again.

But it's totally fine to keep falling over and messing up. That's a normal part of learning. The trick is to see the fun in the messing up and trying. Someone screaming at you and being judgemental at such a time is the fastest way to kill your fun. I'm sorry that instructor did that to you.

I just want to encourage you to go out and play again, by yourself like you did before your lesson. See if you can find that fun. Don't let one jerk ruin it.

A bit blunt but true. You need space to surf, even if you have good control, and waves are only so big.

Lol, I think you got Miyagi-ed. Your instructor taught you a lesson, just not the one you wanted. Your lesson was more cultural. Surf brah culture is filled with these shitheads. It's totally unique to surfing too when compared to other sports....skateboarding, BMX, mountain biking , and whitewater in my experience.

Because its the image, and surfers are image obsessed

I'm a surfer. Hopefully not a dickhead. The best surfer out there is the one having the best time. I don't know why so many are such miserable, miserly, judgemental fucks.

Time in the water gives you time to drink.

Time in the water gives you time to "warm up" the wetsuit

😂😂😂 Underrated post 👌

The ying and the yang my friend.

I recently watched the yin and yang of gerry lopez which I think taught a similar lesson with a real life example and living legend. Give it a watch.

[removed]

Time in the water gives you time to blow waves

How many of us really surf around here ? Definitely not an image thing 😂

[removed]

Yeah. Surfers come across waves and they know which one is a good wave to ride it. A comparison to coming across a new result by chance and recognizing it as a good idea to follow.

The same can be said for a lot of activities like this.

I own a Onewheel which is an electronic skateboard with a single wheel.

They call it "floating" when you ride and it's seriously meditative. When you really get into it it's very serendipitous.

[removed]

[removed]

[removed]

[removed]

[removed]

[removed]

Surfing is one of my favorite things to be not good at.

Time in the water >>> Timing the water