Submitted by g-wilks t3_z676rh in newhampshire

Hello All!

So I have a 2000 Jeep Cherokee, which has an OBDII port for testing emissions. I’ll be soon taking it into a local shop to get its inspection done. But, I remember when driving it last, about 5 years ago, I’d have an emissions code pop up from time to time, evap stuff. I replaced a fuel vapor line and am hoping that solves the issue. It has all the other required components to an emissions system, with a full exhaust.

Being as it’s now older than 20 years, the state’s required age range for emissions tests, could it still fail if they chose to test it? Like, it’s not a requirement to test it anymore, but should they test it, and it doesn’t pass that test, will they still fail it, even though it’s no longer a requirement to do so?

It’s newer than 1996, so it has the OBDII port, but older than the 20 year emissions requirement. There’s a requirement grey area there, and I’m confused. So how would this work for me?

Since I haven’t driven it in 5 years, Ive done some maintenance to it and I’ve put a new battery in, and that’s now reset the computer, so it doesn’t have any drive cycles in it either.

Any information, comments, or advice is all welcome!

Thank You!

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Comments

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UntossableCoconut t1_iy04ijt wrote

You only need a safety inspection as it is more than 20 years old. You’re good to go!

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g-wilks OP t1_iy7csxl wrote

Thank You Very Much! My summer car is a 1993 Civic, which doesn't even have OBDII emissions, so I knew that one was in the clear as far as even getting a test done. But being my Jeep has OBDII equipment, but is older than the 20 year cutoff, I wasn't sure. Thank You!

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jkarovskaya t1_iy0k7rq wrote

You're 100% all set for a 2000 vehicle of any kind as far as emissions, check engine light, etc

It still has to pass safety standards, for brakes, tires, lights, suspension, no significant rust, etc

rest easy on that score

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g-wilks OP t1_iy7cfu7 wrote

Awesome! Thank You! It has all new brakes all around, new stainless brake lines, stainless fuel vapor line, new bulbs all around, 1 year old snow tires, cleaned up and refinished rusty spots last summer, everything that I feel could've gone bad from sitting, I've replaced. Only thing I still have to do is hit all the grease fittings I can find, and I should be golden! My only concern was emissions, so thank you for your answer! Much appreciated!

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[deleted] t1_iy1ahgb wrote

Register it in Vermont, 2005 is the cutoff.

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Maldonian t1_iy46r8e wrote

I wonder if the sales tax in Vermont would outweigh the cost of just repairing the car.

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[deleted] t1_iy4bf5g wrote

NH has that Birthday Tax as I call it. Maryland is a one time tax 6% an 200 every 2 yrs, I go 50/50 in my vehicals and boats. Other states like NM Wa are costler. NH still a gret deal!

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Maldonian t1_iy4pew2 wrote

Thanks, that's interesting information. I like your "birthday tax" term. And while NH punishes people for buying a newer/nicer car, you're right; the overall payment, at least for an older car, is much better than most other states.

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Anxious_Aide_2091 t1_ixzu9gv wrote

Is the check engine light on? If it’s not, then it’s probably not throwing emission codes. If you want to investigate further you can buy a sub $20 OBD plug in from Amazon that hooks up to your phone and see if there are any codes present. I think autozone will check your codes for free too.

I agree the wording doesn’t make sense. It says 1996 and 20 years in the same breath

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ProlapsedMasshole t1_ixzywrb wrote

If it's not been driven then the readiness codes won't be set. It seems likely to me that the 20 year limit supercedes the 1996 OBDII age, but I'm sure an inspector will clarify since it's apparently "ask about inspections weekend" on here.

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Anxious_Aide_2091 t1_iy003q9 wrote

Yeah but I mean they will till him to go drive it miles before inspecting it anyways if it hasn’t cycled through yet.

Right? Must be a lot of December birthdays in here…

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g-wilks OP t1_iy7drcr wrote

I'm actually a June Birthday, but inspecting my Jeep as it's my 4WD transportation for the winter. Pretty late I know, I've been procrastinating finishing it for months. I just have some interior panels left to re-install, and grease some joints, then it should be good to go!

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g-wilks OP t1_iy7djrf wrote

Yeah, their wording is strange, it leaves a grey area gap in time. I actually have a cheap OBDII tester, but the battery has been disconnected multiple times as it sat for 5 years, but I'd still go out and start it every month, just to make sure everything still worked. I've since drained, flushed, and refilled the coolant, oil, and brake fluid. I don't have any codes coming up currently, but the computer hasn't had any mileage to test anything either, just driveway idle time.

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abbys_alibi t1_iy0b9bk wrote

Quick question. Is the gas cap original to the jeep? Asking because my husband bought a locking cap for mine some years ago. It triggered the engine light and the tech said it was an evap failure. Finding this unlikely, I put the original gas cap back on and the engine light went out. Cherokee Jeeps seem to be finicky.

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g-wilks OP t1_iy7cm5d wrote

I did have an aftermarket locking cap for a while, but mine too would throw a code, and the lock also seized, so I replaced it with an OEM and it's seemingly been fine since. They sure are prone to their gremlins!

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ambient_whooshing t1_iy002ry wrote

I changed my battery after letting my 98 sit for about 7 months without running. It wiped the ecu and kept failing inspection for emissions. I was told to drive it for a full tank. Then that it wasn't enough to ready them. Told to drive another tank. I haven't checked for codes since then but know that you may need it stable enough for 500 miles before it passes.

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PoorInCT t1_iy0a6xa wrote

Yah that sounds legit.

Certain tests cant run if the tank is less than 15% full or more than 85% full.

My chevy service manuals gave all sorts of technical info as to minimum trip time, temp of coolant, how many warm ups, how many accelerations from 0 to 25, 45, 55 and corresponding decelerations, time between 45-55, while the fluid was between certain temps, and some other things that would have to happen to let the ecu give you a pass/fail as opposed to not ready.

Best bet it get the warm, don't run near full or empty, and do alot of reasonable accelerations and decelerations on local, state, and on/off ramps on Interstate.

Advance auto can read your obd for free or you can get a reader on Amazon.

Slow evap can be as simple as a gas cap replacement or as bad as thousand dollars where they just replace everything.

Back in the day people would pinch off the tubing to a vacuum pump that was dedicated to doing the test..thats a felony now. In at least the last decade the computer is monitoring pressure in the fuel tank while the engine is running to figure out if any thing is leaking.

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ambient_whooshing t1_iy10cv3 wrote

I chuckled at getting it to 55. That's terrifying. 4" lift with another 100lbs on the roof and super soft worn front suspension. New emu rear I did a few years ago though. The only thing actually wrong with the car is the fuel pump assy and the Bosch one is discontinued 78685 or something. I'm going to swap with a junkyard one but want to get it to pass first in case I need it for the summer. As of now it's just used for camping and towing our little 15' Bayliner.

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PoorInCT t1_iy11grg wrote

Good luck with that. I wish I had the time to actually fix something!

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g-wilks OP t1_iy7d9tp wrote

I recall going about 50 on the highway, at 3500rpm! Mine has a 6.5" lift, with 32" Mud Terrains, but I'm going to be swapping to 33" All Terrains! That speed is a little sketchy, but luckily most of my commute I can take secondary roads. Right now, with fuel at the prices it is, I'll just be using my Jeep in the winter, as I use my 1993 Civic for summer. It saves so much fuel, and is just shy of $30 for a full tank that'll last me 2 weeks! My Jeep's average MPG with the lift and tires was around 10-12MPG! No Bueno! I'm definitely thinking about regearing too!

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g-wilks OP t1_iy7dyyg wrote

I replaced my battery too, and it's been disconnected many times as I'd just go out to start it every month to let it run up to temp, just to make sure everything was still operating as it should. It does have really old gas in it though, so I'll definitely be filling it up, and running it around for a little while, then filling again to the brim before I go for the inspection. I'll be testing for codes with my cheap scanner before I go too!

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Dukes159 t1_iy3ywg6 wrote

Had a 2012 chevy that would pop evap codes all the time. Local mechanic would clear it, tell me to drive 200 miles, then would slap a sticker on it.

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