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binz17 t1_itqzrn1 wrote

Reply to comment by Turtley13 in [OC] Climbing Accidents in North American Climbing by chnetka

but aborting a fall is the primary function of many pieces of gear. saying that the fall is the main issue and absolving the gear is kind of meaningless. that would basically mean that you could only fault the gear in a static load situation.

i'm still a gumby though and cant climb overhangs. i tend to down climb and take rather than risk a big fall on slab and vertical walls... lol

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Turtley13 t1_itr62js wrote

Think about it this way. I'll give you examples.

Scenario 1

Climber falls while leading and his last draw breaks (equipment failure). Get's injured. MAIN cause FALL, SECONDARY EQUIP FAILURE
Scenario 1 doesn't occur if the person doesn't fall.

​

Scenario 2

Climber takes a take and loads his draw. It breaks (equipment failure).

Main cause is equipment failure.

​

See the difference?

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binz17 t1_itrbgds wrote

yah, thats essentially what i said.

except that falling is part of climbing. if your equipment fails on a fall and you get injured, the equipment is the primary reason for the injury imo.

It would be like having statistics on why most skydivers die and the top result is sudden stop. It's just not interesting and informative.

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Turtley13 t1_itrkfa7 wrote

Falling while single pitch and pushing your limits sure falling is common.

Alpine climbing a fall is not something you ever want to do. Running out gear is very common in say the Canadian Rockies where gear placement is terrible.

It's not the same as your sky diving comparison.

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