This is not the place to teach you photography, as while the basics are not complicated, it would be quite a long post :)

I can tell you now though, this image's two main (technical) problems, are underexposure, and poor lighting.

You need to make the image a bit brighter. While this can be done in post production, it is always better to get this right in camera, as brightening an underexposed image in post will always increase noise. Either use a slower shutter speed, or widen the lens aperture. Even with a digital image.... getting in correct in camera is the best way.

You appear to be using one light source, from the left, and it is fairly hard, meaning it is a small light source that casts hard shadows. That in itself isn't necessarily bad, but it does give a contrasty image with forbidding shadows. You can decrease this contrast by using a larger light source, but the easiest remedy is to use a reflector (a large piece of white card is ideal) to the right of the set to bounce some light back in. You could also add a second light, but be careful here, as a second light will also add a second set of shadows. It is often best to manage contrast using a reflector, or adjusting the size of the main (key) light before you add more light sources. Altering the size is best done by using a diffuser such as tracing paper in front of the light. The bigger the diffuser, the softer the light. Also the direction the light is coming from can be changed to alter the mood of the image. This hard light source from the set's 10 o'clock position lends it a fairly sinister feel with just one light and the deep shadows.... as if a bedroom door has been opened at night.. you almost expect the shadow of an axe wielding psycho to move across the desk. :) Consider mood, and feel... these are not technical matters, but something to consider. It's the 'meaning' of an image that is often most difficult to teach rather than the technical aspects.

Be aware though, with exposure adjustment, while you can use either shutter speed, or aperture to adjust it, the two are related, and each have their own affect. Depth of field is the one you need to be concerned about, and this is adjusted by aperture. Basically a small aperture number such as f1.8 (larger physical aperture) will mean that objects behind, and in front of what you focused on will be more blurred, and a larger aperture number such as f22 (smaller physical aperture) will allow more front to back sharpness. Look at that pair of milky yellow switches in the foreground.... see how they are blurred? If you used a really small aperture of f22, they may have been sharp. If you used a much wider aperture of say f1.8, they would be even more blurred. When you adjust aperture though, you need to also adjust shutter speed to compensate and maintain the same exposure. This is called reciprocity law and something you may want to research. If are using an auto exposure mode though, which you probably are, the camera will sort this out for you, so at this stage don't worry too much. I've no idea what you do, or do not understand at this point. Just remember depth of field is a product of aperture, so with a still life image like this, adjusting shutter speed would be preferable, so as to not change your depth of field. With auto exposure cameras though, you often don't get to choose which of these aspects to control, so again, without knowing what you are using to shoot the image I can only give general advice. Be careful you don't overdo the whole shallow depth of field thing though.

There's a lot that could be discussed at this point, but until I know what level you are at, and what you are using to create the shot, it would be difficult to give any more advice.

Keep the set clean. You will be shocked at how much dust is there when you zoom into a shot.

I hope this helps.

David

BA (Hons), MA, FRPS