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livingston3 t1_ivey9f1 wrote

Sounds like you have an amazing dad!

32

nobody23x t1_ivf02yu wrote

Look into at least sealing it or staining and then sealing it. Your skin touching it will discolor it heavily.

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obi318 t1_ivf66or wrote

Love this layout. Which keeb is this?

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OaklandCollushittum t1_ivf6lkw wrote

Replying to nobody23x (#463,643)

100%. though he should be careful if he uses stains along with a clear polyurethane coat. If he wants to add color to it I'd recommend using a gel stain because how inconsistently pine can suck up regular penetrating stain.

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Wanye2020Kest t1_ivf7fi0 wrote

Replying to OaklandCollushittum (#463,999)

The key is to raise the grain with a bit of water and sand it down with 120 grit, then use pre-stain before staining. It's all about the preparation; just make sure to sand it well. This will pretty much completely prevent stain blotching.

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xxInsanex t1_ivfe3tm wrote

Looks good, like these guys i'd recommend giving it a stain or at least apply a sealant to help preserve it

6

zlance t1_ivfg38n wrote

Can we get more pics? I need to make myself one

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VentureQuotes t1_ivfh8nk wrote

Bob Vance got me this perfume in Orlando. It’s made from real pine.

2

Cooncey t1_ivfsgml wrote

Knot bad Dad!

..sorry i had to

5

adamgeo1 t1_ivfw0hs wrote

Replying to obi318 (#463,978)

SK71. I have this board, and while the layout is unique and cool, there is a gripe I would be aware of. It doesn’t seem like a big deal, but the backspace key being 1u to the left of its usual position makes me almost always hit NumLock instead of itself

9

SukoKing t1_ivgihgk wrote

a good stain and varnish would do it nicely

1

FinancialTea4 t1_ivgl65s wrote

Replying to nobody23x (#463,643)

I would suggest an oil finish like tung oil. If sanded correctly it'll be like satin and not stick to the skin. This is the finish I prefer on my guitars and bass guitars for that very reason.

4

Apex_Cole t1_ivgm3s4 wrote

Man I wish it wasn't made out of pine, tends to be a cheaper softer wood more prone to damage, you can actually dent it simply by digging your fingernail into it, very nice looking and I would also heavily recommend at least finishing it with a protective mineral oil or clear poly coat.

1

timtucker_com t1_ivgpk28 wrote

Replying to solracarevir (#465,209)

Having just went through the process of doing a few custom wrist rests like this over the last few days, it's not worth sealing up until you're sure that you've gotten the ergonomics right.

Far better to work quickly & test it out for a few days first to see if the angle / height / depth are off at all.

My kids wound up with new wrist rests on their keyboards after I realized from an initial attempt that I really needed at least 4" of depth.

5

Anonona91 t1_ivgrc3x wrote

What's your keycap set bud?

1

Void_Of_Galaxies2727 t1_ivh7fo9 wrote

Replying to Wanye2020Kest (#464,037)

Now the question is how to protect it, because pine, from my experience in woodshop classes, takes damage easily depending on what happens to it, my recommendation is everything you said, then after that, putting a couple of coats of epoxy resin on it. That's what I was thinking about doing to my desk after talking to my old woodworking professor a week ago. It's just what to use, probably fast curing crystal clear resin. That's just my idea though, to preserve something to make it last longer, y'know?

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wcafc t1_ivh9yy8 wrote

Nice! How do you like the layout of the sk71? Do you find it difficult or annoying to use?

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Tiny_Peanuts_ t1_ivhldmh wrote

I want a keyboard like this just wish it has the additional plus & enter key on thee numpad. FRL 96% is a beauty.

1

Chrollo283 t1_ivhsdjm wrote

Replying to Void_Of_Galaxies2727 (#468,146)

I've been thinking of doing this same thing with a couple of light resin coats. My worry is around air bubbles forming and I don't have a vacuum chamber to remove the air before applying

If you have any tips, I would love to hear them!

2

AverageElaMain t1_ivii092 wrote

Was pine a good material to use for this? I usually hear of oak being used instead, unless im mistaken. Pine is a much lighter and a less dense material. I'm not a carpenter and could be mistaken, so I'm just curious

1

Void_Of_Galaxies2727 t1_ivimaqp wrote

From what I've tried, a torch, alcohol misting ( like from a spray bottle) or even better, a heat gun, works amazingly, I don't have a heat gun, so I use a hair dryer on high for a couple of minutes and give it a rest because sometimes hair dryers like to reset the outlets in my house. But if you have access to a heat gun, and you do it outside, it works better than and is safer that the torch/ mini flamethrower. But if you're doing small resin castings, a mini torch whole be alright to use, but it doesn't always get rid of the air bubbles.

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camilatricolor t1_ivjmwoe wrote

Your dad made a great job.... it looks so clean

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meatydp t1_ivjx7xy wrote

Looks nice but you really shouldn't be using a wrist wrest, it's going to give you tendonitis.

1

puanonymou5 t1_ivlakst wrote

Replying to adamgeo1 (#465,372)

Was already trying to convince myself this would be the perfect compact work board, but trying to wrap my head around the bindings after changing keycaps. That bit tells me I should not get them, because I will hit that NumLock every time, or learn and screw up muscle memory for every other board.

2