Mill-Max Hotswap sockets - what the youtube guides don't tell you

Submitted by OfTheStrange t3_z1xn1n in MechanicalKeyboards

Hello, I recently desoldered my Anne Pro 2 and installed some of the mill-max 0305-2 sockets (the taller ones) so I could hot-swap in the future.

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While installing the sockets, I ran into some issues that were never mentioned in the YT guides I watched so I wanted to share them here for anyone who might do this mod in the future:

  1. Some PCB's wont have small enough pad-holes for the socket head to actually just sit on top of the PCB and stay there. Instead, the pad-hole is so wide that the whole socket will just slip right through (at least this was the case with the Anne Pro 2 PCB. Unless this PCB is just some big exception, I imagine there are similar boards out there.)
  2. If you run into the above issue, you'll have to figure out some solution for having the sockets stay still in place while you solder them in. One of those solutions is to install the sockets on the switch-legs themselves, lock all the switches into the board, and then solder. If you do this please read the next bullet as well. Another solution is to use heat-tape to fix the sockets in place - I found this option too tedious but it may work for you.
  3. If you're desoldering switches from the board before installing the sockets, and you plan on using the same switches that you desoldered for the mill-max socket placement issue mentioned above - MAKE SURE TO REMOVE ANY EXCESS SOLDER FROM THE SWITCH LEGS. I must have had some specks of solder stuck to some of my MX Browns, and when I locked all the switches in and started soldering the sockets, I must have essentially soldered the sockets to 2 of my switches legs. The switch was still usable, but if I want the entire keyboard to be truly hot-swappable it effectively made those switches unusable. Luckily I had some spare MX browns lying around, but you may not be so lucky.

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Hope this stuff might be helpful for anyone considering this mod in the future!

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Tweetydabirdie t1_ixdcj7i wrote

There is a reason why the YouTube videos don’t mention your specific issues. The should never occur if you do the correct research before jumping in.

  1. There are multiple boards like that. There are other mill-max sockets that fit them better.

  2. If you run into this issue, you selected the wrong parts.

  3. It’s not recommended to use switches that have been soldered in mill max sockets at all. It’s possible to damage/jam the socket so that you cannot remove the switch and tear the socket and pad of the PCB. Beware.

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OfTheStrange OP t1_ixdct61 wrote

What sockets would fit the board better? I had no idea.

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Yeah your third point makes sense. I killed about 3 switches using the same MX Browns, but luckily the rest installed just fine.

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I did my best to research before buying parts, but the hobby is already overwhelming when starting for the first time so I'm not surprised I bought the wrong parts.

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Tweetydabirdie t1_ixdd2pk wrote

Mill max have an online guide to selecting the correct part no for the size hole and stem. It should give you a better fit.

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OfTheStrange OP t1_ixddy4h wrote

Cool! Having trouble finding that but I'll keep looking. I'm only seeing the 3 main sockets they sell which seem to have no difference in the head size of the socket

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FlynnsAvatar t1_ixde5fg wrote

Use Kapton tape to hold the mill max sockets in place while soldering. I don’t find it tedious. Far more tedious to actually place the sockets into the holes. Insert a whole row, then take a long section of 1/2in or 3/4in wide kapton and slap it down over all the sockets in one action. 30 secs to apply the tape vs 10-20 minutes for the sockets. YMMV.

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OfTheStrange OP t1_ixdeicn wrote

I tried the tape, but with my sockets constantly slipping through (I now know I bought incorrect parts for my PCB) getting the sockets to sit correct was too finnicky with the tape. I can see how if the sockets sit just right on the PCB the tape would be 100% easier.

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das-hogfather t1_ixdoxe4 wrote

3305s are better suited to keebs

Masking tape does wonders holding them in place

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mk4337 t1_ixed8tf wrote

I don't want to say I'm an expert by any means but I've mill maxed about 9-10 PCB's and 9 of them were new PCB's minus the one which was my personal Space65 R1 PCB that had soldered switches

  1. If de soldering switches for sure make sure holes are clean of any residual solder, sometimes if some stays around the PCB switch holes and you cant get the mill max socket in you can try placing the heated solder tip on top of mill max socket and let it heat the residual solder in the pcb. You should feel the socket fall into place.
  2. When placing sockets into PCB you can lock them in place with masking tape, I normally place all sockets in one row at a time and then cut some masking tape to the correct width to place on said row to lock them in place. I'd then move down to the next row and do the same, *caution* make sure you have the correct placement for your sockets when doing the last row / steps cap / enter / backspace etc
  3. When soldering mill max sockets this has always worked for me in the past. Place the solder tip at the base of the locked socket first for 1-2 seconds before placing the solder up to the base of the socket, I've found this to work for me 100% of the time when soldering 0305 and 7305 sockets.
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Criticalwater2 t1_ixefg25 wrote

A quick check at Divinikey shows the 7305s are wider. Those may work better. If anything, I’ve always had the opposite problem with the pcb holes being too small.

For mounting, I always have some new cheap switches I put the sockets on and mount a few of the switches at a time to solder the sockets in. That way if I mess up and get solder inside the socket with the pin, I can just throw the switch away.

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