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This is the problem with just throwing all the mods at a board in one go. You never got to know it without the mods properly. Ideally you should build a board with absolutely no mods at all, and then assess what you wish to modify. This will give you a better idea of what to do. For example, if you like a stock board, but it has really bad case ping, you know that all you need to do is fit some case foam, and that would be it. As you have pretty much done every mod you can think of at once it would be hard to tell what needs doing. All I know is adding even more mods will probably not get you what you want. At a guess, I would suggest removing the switch pads to get a harder bottom out sound. This may well match your space bar better as space bards tend to be louder due to their sheer mass. It's hard to say though.

Thanks, I forgot to say I used the board two weeks without any mod and only with two silicone sheet 2mm (so 4mm in all) and sound wasn't that bad, less creamy but more thock than now. Anyway u can be right, I will try to remove one switch pad and hear the difference. Ty.

2mm is too thick, 1mm is just fitting within the V1 which has a bit more space as far as I know (didn't own a V2 yet, just information I got from the internet: V2 has a 1mm thicker case, but 1mm less space inside). So I would get a 0.5mm silicone sheet for a V2. I think you do not have any flex/bounce and therefore a pretty direct connection between the bottom of the PCB the silicone and hence the case. My second and probably more effective 'mod' to please your thock-needs: Remove the Plate-Foam and install the PC-Plate without stand-offs! I think that will get you there. Best regards QPS: Yes, here it is: 'Less foam more thock' and deeper sound, imho. Just test it and see for yourself if I'm right.

Oh ok, yeah rn that's no flex but is not a thing that matter to me at all, to be honest I don't like it.I will try to get a silicon sheet so small. Plate foam u mean the foam between PCB and plate?

Yes, just remove it and also remove the stand-offs from the PC-plate, so that there is no hard connection between the plate and the PCB. The connection is save and holds just by the strength of the 'switch-pins-hotswap-socket-connection'. Bonus: You will get a much more even sound and there is no longer a weird warping of the plate and PCB (because Keychron made the platefoam a bit too thick for the smaller clearence there is). I think that will make the biggest difference in regards to your thock-intention. As it seems you got me right with the silicone sheet, I just recall it: Yes you would gain flex, but that was not the main goal. Now that I know you do not like it, it doesn't matter at all of course. But my intent with that is to disconnect the PCB from the silicone (hence the case).

Okok understand, the pc plate haven't already standoff (I think because is from AliExpress) so rn it isn't screw in with PCB, when I remove the foam plate should I remove gasket or not? I don't get it why disconnect the silicone to the pcb, can cause short of PCB?, sorry but I'm not English and I don't understand where you go with this.

I'm no 'native-english-speaker', too. So no worries. No, do not remove the gaskets, just the platefoam between the plate and pcb. If there are no standoffs you do not have to do anything in this regard. I thought you got the Keychron pc-plate. If you remove the silicone totally, yeah there is a chance of a short. But that's not what I suggested. I just mean you should get rid of the direct connection between the pcb-bottom and the silicone, hence get a thinner sheet of silicone to realize that. In your current state it's a tight sandwich with no air in between, really. This makes the gasketmount totally senseless and you really have kind of a sandwich-mount in the end. If there is some air in between and not a direct connection anymore, the pcb-plate-unit is more isolated from the case by just having the gaskets doing the job of the case-connection. In the end this means: you have a smaller area that translates sound. It is perhaps a bit quieter but also 'thockier'/deeper and poppier in my experience, in case of the Q1. The same explanation holds for the above thing with the platefoam, roughly speaking. Perhaps a FR4-plate would get you closer to your ideal, but I think your choice of the pc plate was a good one. Metal plates would be pingy and high pitched and the platefoam would be needed to mute that ping. So your well positioned platewise. The silicone sheet is there in the end to help the force break by muting the ping by reducing the bottom-case ping. It also makes the reverb-chamber of the case a bit smaller AND most important it's the safety sheet that makes a short impossible: If you, by accident, flex the PCB without anything in between it and the metal case you do get a short and may destroy your pcb that way. But with silicone or something else, like even your tempest-tape mod, in between, there is no risk. Tell me if something is unclear still. Best regards Q

Sorry - I sometimes have to edit some stuff, but now it should be readable.^^ I'm german if that's a language you would prefer.

No need to worries, now I get what u mean, last question is the max height of the silicon sheet is 0,5mm for don't touch the pcb or can in go with 1mm?

Ps: I'm Italian so German is gonna be worse than English ahah

I think so, yes: In my case, Q1V1, 1mm is just thin enough, but I think in your case, Q1V2, 0,5mm is the way to go (because of what I stated in my first post). Or you test it without any silicone at all before you search and buy one. There is a chance you do not need it at all, because your extended force break takes care of the ping-issue by itself. And your tape mod saves you from a short.

Ok thank you a lot dude, I will try next week , and update here. Have a good day👍

Exactly this, couldn't have even said it better myself. The trouble is people hear about all these mods, but don't always know exactly what they are doing for the build and what they change about it. So they think these are all necessary no matter what, when really these mods are just to change up the sound of the board to the users preference, there are really no mods that are 100% necessary for any board. Best course of action is to always build a board without mods, think about how you want the sound to change if you don't like it, and then use the appropriate mod. Or, if you just want to do all the mods to it, slowly do them 1 by 1 and see how they change the sound, you may like one of the intermediate steps more than the final result of all the mods being done.

Did you do all these mods at once, or did you see how you thought about the sound after doing each mod? I ask because that is a lot of mods, so is really is hard to assess what is causing the sound to not be to your liking.

Another question, the silicone sheet. Is that for the case? I think you should try removing that if you have not, as I think that will help with the overall sound a bit. I also think that you can remove the tempest mod, as I don't feel this is needed since you have the PE foam on there as well. Using too many mods can make the sound just off because then you have so much going. So removing the silicone and the tempest mod I think is a good place to start.

Ultimately, I think the best way to have done this is to do the case and sound mods slowly one at a time and experiment with different combinations until you found a result you like. There is such a thing as too many mods, as you don't want there to be too much going on inside the case.

Yup. Even if you end up with a board you think is great, if you did it all at once, you've no idea what mod resulted in the end result, and many of them may have actually been redundant. Doing them one at a time, will allow you to evaluate what each mod is doing. It also teaches you what will be most effective on your next build.