Submitted by infinite_zero t3_10jb26c in Maine

We live in Wiscasset well off the main road, and have always had an oil furnace to heat our 2600 square foot home. Lately, the cost to fill the tank has rapidly risen past $1000.

Our house is quite old, but we have replaced the windows, roof and added insulation in the last few years to try and reel in energy costs. Unfortunately, though this has helped a little, it hasn’t had nearly the impact we had hoped.

My wife and I are far from wealthy and the rising oil cost has become a huge concern. It’s hitting the point now where we seriously have to look into alternative heating methods if we don’t want to leave the house after retirement.

I’ve done plenty of homework on the subject of energy-efficient heating and mostly see solar and heat pump as our options. Does anyone have experience converting from oil to either of these options in a similarly-sized home?

Edit: We use about 213 gallons of oil monthly and keep the thermostat between 63° and 65° F.

Edit 2: The heat is delivered via forced air. The ductwork was replaced 2 years ago so it should still be a modern level of efficiency and well-sealed.

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AlternativeWay4729 t1_j5je4c6 wrote

Our old farmhouse isn't that large, about 2000 feet with a recent extension, but it has distant wings, so doesn't heat easily.

When we got it, it wasn't insulated. The previous occupants used 700 gallons oil and ten cords of wood a year. We didn't exactly convert the place from oil. The oil furnace is still there. What we did was make incremental improvements. First we put in a wood stove and used that instead of the oil hot air furnace for about 80% of the heat. Then in stages we air sealed and insulated: new windows and doors, R40 cellulose blown in the attic, four inches cellulose blown into the stud bays, and two inches R10 foam board over the entire outside. Spray foam on the upper four feet of the cellar walls and joist bays. Smarter thermostats for the furnace and baseboards. Every year for five or six years we did something to improve on air sealing and insulation. We did it all ourselves.

Then we built an extension that had R10 foam board and six inches cellulose in the walls and R40 in the attic. We added a heat pump in the kitchen where we can feed both wings, although not well enough to get to the far corners where we have electric heaters to top up. We added solar, 2.7kW/hour of sunshine, which cancels out some of the extra power needed for the heat pump and baseboards. Right now we use 3-4 cords firewood, less than 50 gallons oil, and our power bills go from $40 in summer to $100 in late fall and spring to $300 in January and February. Quite a bit of that is tank heaters and heat lamps for livestock and block heaters for a tractor, though. We measured their consumption with a meter and it is high, as much as $80/month. If we didn't want to keep stock then we'd have only $120 to $180 more electrical consumption/month in winter. Our power bills would top out just over $200/month. I estimate our total actual heating costs at about $1200/year. Right now we are replacing the furnace with an identical newer used model. We don't use it much -- we've gone only from from 1/3 to 1/4 of a tank so far this year. But when it's really cold we do use it to keep the house warm when we're not here. It sits in the cellar so it keeps the pipes from freezing. The old one is getting rusty because the 120-year old cellar is damp and floods occasionally. And the insurance company wants us to have one, even if we barely use it.

(Full disclosure: I was an energy academic before retirement. Now I'm just a grumpy handyman.)

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Seyword t1_j5jlijf wrote

Sounds like a full time job.

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SeamusRomney t1_j5kp5yo wrote

Another retiree and grumpy handyman here, can confirm - it's a full-time job.

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AlternativeWay4729 t1_j5jej13 wrote

I should mention we cut some of the firewood ourselves, off our own land. But not all. About half.

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mcot2222 t1_j5kcv41 wrote

“R40 cellulose blown in the attic, four inches cellulose blown into the stud bays, and two inches R10 foam board over the entire outside.“

I’m curious about this. Do you mean the outside of the house? I’ve done a lot of insulating and air sealing but I think my fundemental problem is that my foundation is from 1961 and they never insulated foundations back then. I was thinking it was too big of a job to retrofit that.

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AlternativeWay4729 t1_j5kfdfp wrote

We first took off the bottom six to eight inches of siding and sheathing. We cleared out the mouse nests and other debris from the old stud bays. We scarfed in some new wood in a few places where there was partially rotten sill. Put PT sheathing over that. Drilled a two-inch hole at the top of each floor's stud bay. Blew in cellulose until it wouldn't blow in any more. This requires a special blower, not the one they rent at Home Despot. Put two-inch foam board over the old siding, glued at the edges. Put 7/16 OSB nailer over that with long screws. Then my wife put up shingles, which she likes to do. The house was built of rough cut hemlock, fully four inches, which at R3.8/inch for cellulose is about R15 for the stud bays, and the foam board makes it R25. But it's the air sealing that does most of the work. It was still drafty until a couple years later when we put spray foam over the top several feet of cellar wall and over the joist bays. It's not hard. We did it ourselves with the canisters they sell at Home Depot. You have to suit up and wear a very good respirator. It's recommended that you use the kind with an air supply. I didn't, and survived, but I should have done. But you can get a contractor to do it for you and they have all the proper kit.

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TheMrGUnit t1_j5jenj7 wrote

For pure bang for your buck, you can't beat a wood stove, and one step off that is a wood pellet stove, which is far easier to deal with.

Heat pumps are able to serve as a primary heat source, but you're going to pay a premium for the "ultra-low temp" models. If you're able to keep your oil as a backup, the standard "cold temp" models will keep up as long as the temps are above zero, and will save you a serious amount of cash on the initial investment.

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mcot2222 t1_j5kd58u wrote

And at below freezing low temps they could be more costly than oil. Our electric prices are around 30 cents in New England. My big 48k btu heat pump with 5 heads used between 1,500 to 2,000 kWh in December.

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TheMrGUnit t1_j5mnqia wrote

Cold-weather heat pumps retain their efficiency advantage until single digits. Mine will keep the house warm until about -4.

Also, CMP is offering programs to heat pump owners and high consumers to reduce costs. Anyone considering a heat pump should check these out to see if you can save some money.

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VegUltraGirl t1_j5jh204 wrote

Get a wood stove! We struggled our first winter in our home with the shock of heating it. The following year we got a wood stove! Problem solved. We haven’t ordered oil since November and we only had a 100 gallons delivered. We got 3 cords of wood which will last us through the winter.

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HamAlien t1_j5m2kc1 wrote

Wood heat is glorious. With an older house, OP might have a chimney that’s ready to go. Alternatively a self install with some Duravent chimney pipe from tractor supply is not cost prohibitive.

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Dirty_Lew t1_j5jneyn wrote

We got heat pumps in December and love them. Switched from oil in a 2200 sqft home. Cost us about $9000 for one large unit one small. They’ve done fine heating the whole house. Rooms will get cold if the doors get shut, but they’re heating better than I expected.

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NoPossibility t1_j5k5ml3 wrote

Same cost and results for me. I’m quite happy. Electric bill went up about $100 a month year over year, so much less than the 2/300$ I was paying for propane.

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blainemoore t1_j5jle59 wrote

Heat pumps are really efficient. A wood stove is probably more efficient than oil. We switched a couple years ago from oil to natural gas, and supplement with a wood stove.

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[deleted] t1_j5juc83 wrote

Heat pumps are great until the temperature drops below 30-40, then they barely get the house to 60 on their own, in my experience at least.

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NoPossibility t1_j5k5gwh wrote

I’ve got heat pumps and they work fine as a primary. They keep it at 70 for us year round with minimal fuss. I didn’t pay an extra huge premium for any fancy model either as far as I know. Newer ones work well into single digits very efficiently and still work into lower temps than that, but not as efficiently or quickly. Having a backup source for the coldest nights is a good idea but not a necessity. Heat pumps and air sealing/insulation work would be my solution for the OP.

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ReallyFineWhine t1_j5ku3n1 wrote

It was 13 degrees when I woke a couple mornings ago. Heat pumps were still blowing warm air. (Efficiency probably goes down a bit, which is why I still have the oil boiler ready to go.)

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RuarriS t1_j5k1501 wrote

We live in an old farmhouse and have done a lit of airsealing and insulating this year. We have relied on our heat pumps all winter, and it's been much more comfortable than when we relied on pellets and propane. Temps stay mid- to lower- 60s in the areas furthest from the air handlers, and we've got the thermostat at 67.

Yesterday was the first time we put on the pellet stove and that's cuz we were sitting around hungover and wanted the ambiance.

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gretchens t1_j5m0178 wrote

We haven't turned on the oil yet this heating season.

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Sugarloafer1991 t1_j5s3dbw wrote

Don’t know what heat pumps you got, but ours are more efficient than the oil baseboard system until about -10 (theoretically, we haven’t had much under -5 in the last few years). The efficiency also only really drops at -5. Daikin is our brand, they’re awesome and the reduced AC costs in the summer are massive as well.

I remember a time where our house didn’t have AC in the summer as kids because we didn’t need it!

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Seyword t1_j5jmswt wrote

How many gallons are you using each month? What temp are you keeping it at?

That’s a very large house. Large houses are expensive to heat and maintain no matter what energy source you use.

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infinite_zero OP t1_j5jtwcm wrote

213 gallons a month. Keeping temp at 63°-65°

I will update the original post with this info as well.

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Seyword t1_j5k1zhb wrote

For the size of the home that’s about what we go through. We have a 100+ year old home, 1200 sq.ft and use about 100 gallons a month when it’s really cold. Steam radiators, boiler heats our water as well. We insulated the basement and attic when we bought the home.

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Strict-Nectarine-53 t1_j5jomdc wrote

We replaced an oil burner with a Maine Energy Systems pellet boiler with a 4-ton pellet hopper. It works great, was assembled in Bethel and most of the pellets that fuel it come from Maine too.

That pellet boiler heats our hot water and is backup heat when we are gone or on very cold early mornings, our primary heat is a cordwood burning fireplace insert.

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kirbypotimus t1_j5mrb8i wrote

What was the expense of this system? I'm considering it for my house 2k sqft.

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Strict-Nectarine-53 t1_j5mwen1 wrote

$27K for a 2800-sq-ft house before a $6K Energy Maine rebate and a 15% federal tax credit on the total cost.

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Chamelion117 t1_j5k4z7n wrote

My house is half your size but I have all 3. It came with a combination baseboard/DHW boiler system, I added a heat pump and all-nighter wood stove.

⚡Heat pump as primary.

🌲Wood stove when I'm home to feed it.

🔥Oil baseboard set to 50F if/when either fails and I'm not home to mitigate pipe bursting disaster.

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curtludwig t1_j5k85n8 wrote

Have you done an energy audit? It can be hard to know where your heat is going without one. The basic one seals your door, pumps air into the house and sees where it leaks out. Most utilities have a program where you can get a basic audit for free. This will help you find out what can be done to tighten up the house.

Take a look at your furnace, the last time it was serviced they'll have put a tag on it, see what it's efficiency is. If it's under 80% it's quite likely a new furnace will pay for itself in a relatively short time. We're actually due for that at my house.

Finally you mention new windows. Sadly I see a lot of windows installed poorly. Feel around the edge of your windows and make sure there aren't air leaks. A good installer will have insulated around the windows, either by packing in fiberglass or with spray foam. Otherwise your windows have vents that just suck your warm air out. This is where the energy audit really helps.

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CantThinkOfAName000 t1_j5k8e8z wrote

My parents have a house that's broadly that size (I think) and put ductless mini split heat pumps in about 8 or 10 years ago. They kept the oil furnace both as a backup and also because it provided the house's hot water. Overall, they love it. The oil bill went way down and as a bonus they now have air conditioning in the summer. It probably helps that the downstairs is relatively open, so they get away with one heat pump downstairs, positioned near where they spend most of their time. The upstairs is much less open, but their bedroom is the only room that gets regular use upstairs (they're empty nesters), so they have a heat pump in their bedroom and just let the other rooms upstairs run a bit cool (probably like 55-60°F). If guests come over and actually use the other rooms, they just use the oil heat to make them comfortable for the brief period guests are there. It's probably also very helpful that their house is set up so that basically every room has its own zone for the oil heat, so it's very easy to turn the oil heat up or down in just one room if it's needed for whatever reason.

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1Username2RuleEmAll t1_j5k8yi0 wrote

In your situation, an energy audit from a BPI certified Building Anaylst Professional will likely be the best next step. They used to cost between $0-$500, depending (Idk currently.) The results will be really handy in guiding next steps.

Maybe the quickest, cheapest next step is just getting a wood stove. An audit can help guide here, too, especially in looking at how to avoid negatively affecting the safe venting of any existing heating unit and how to avoid moving too much moisture into attics. (An auditor should be seeing how everything in the house is connected in one interdependent system.)

I don't recommend a pellet stove. They blow warm air, they DO NOT RADIATE like a wood stove. The amount and quality of the heat is very different. If you want the ease of a pellet stove, go with a mini split heat pump. Easier, cleaner, provides AC too. But doesn't work when power is out without deep cycle batteries and an inverter.

Before shelling out on more shiny heating technology, cover the basics with an audit and go from there. There might be all kinds of open chases into the attic (around the chimney, open wall tops especially around plumbing and wires.) The old bathtub could be built to be open to the wall and framed around, there may be connections from porches that are cooling a ceiling that can be bagged and blown. The sills and basement door may be leaky. The sills and foundation may be uninsulated. There may be opportunities to do IR-guided dense pack cellulose in the walls. The audit should include IR inspection, a blower door to quantify and qualify leaks, a good visual inspection with photos of the attic and what's under the insulation, and a cost and savings for individual insulating, air sealing, and new heating systems tasks. If it shows you that over 10 years solar will cost $20k and reduce your heat bill by $10k, but dense packing will cost you $6k and save you $20k, that is the kind of guidance I mean. In some cases the monthly savings can be greater than the loan payment. Whew. Didn't know I was going to write so much!

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[deleted] t1_j5jtm26 wrote

Wood stove and heat pump! Neither alone would be sufficient but they work great together.

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Kazbob48 t1_j5k2bb2 wrote

I have a 1600 square foot cape that is older and drafty.

We have a pellet stove that has been worth its weight in gold. We typically burn a bag of pellets per day and keep the house around 75 to 80 degrees.

A bag if you buy in bulk runs $4-5 if you get them in the off season. So we basically spend about 120-150 per month in heating.

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tw207 t1_j5pcxqh wrote

I am with you. I made the switch this last september and have no regret. Harmon p43 was 4k, which comes with a great warranty. Even paying winter prices for pellets, I will start seeing a return on investment early next winter. These are eligible for a substantial tax credit.

1500 sq foot home. Keep it on half power from 6am- 2 pm and then on the lowest setting until the following morning. About 1 to 1.25 bags used per day.

I would recommend having a building or a good place to store the pellets. With that being said, I do see people just pulling bags off a pallet in their yard.

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Kazbob48 t1_j5qrf0v wrote

As someone who had to vacuum out a gross bag of moldy pellets that had been waterlogged, I completely agree with you on finding a dry spot to store.

It took hours to get all the gunk out and get it working again.

I made the mistake when we first moved in and I found a bag of pellets out back. Big mistake 🤣

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Beasagdeux t1_j5kjpis wrote

So.. frankly sounds like my house (and not that far away from me either so we have similar weather)

The quick answer is not to 'replace' the oil furnace. Central heating systems are expensive.

Adding a heat pump could make a big difference for you. Keep the oil heat as backup. But the new heat pumps are good down to -15 and we rarely see that these days. Larger heat pumps can support multiple units so you can spread the heat throughout the house (upstairs and downstairs or whatever your layout).

Heat pumps are not as expensive as new central heating. They are easier and cleaner than wood (though it never hurts to add a wood stove if you have the time, money or inclination or if you are worried about extended electric outages).

Wood is great if you are active and able. But at my age.. I'm about over wanting a woodstove. The wood heat is lovely.. the work is exhausting. And the heat pump will also cool the house in August.

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eljefino t1_j5ly621 wrote

I run the trifecta of wood stove, heat pump, and oil baseboard.

Heat pumps are great for the shoulder seasons, anything above 15'F for me. I run the stove below 15 because otherwise it roasts me out of my own house. Oil is set low as a backup.

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PencillCat t1_j5jsmqr wrote

Pellet stove is another thing I'd recommend, if a wood stove isn't an option. Doesn't require a big chimney like a woodstove, pellets are relatively cheap, and you can let it run for a lot longer without needing to load it (24hrs+). It won't heat the whole house but definitely a main area.

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Starboard_Pete t1_j5juhxe wrote

We went with heat pumps and a duct system for our primary heating source along with solar, but have a newer/well-insulated house, and a South-facing roof. The roof facing direction can make a huge difference in terms of your solar production, as does insulation. The tax credit was 26% on the solar plus an inverter upgrade when we did it, now it’s up to 30% so keep that in mind as well.

We went with Maine Solar Solutions, and they were great to work with, provided quick estimates. Happy to answer more questions if you have any.

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Takyr1010 t1_j5k6kxh wrote

Get a wood stove or pellet stove for alternative heat

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pamgun t1_j5kfqju wrote

​

So I guess the thing is what is your monthly bill with oil and electric now and is your furnace in good shape or will it need to be replaced soon? There is a good rebate for heat pumps now from Efficiency Maine, but they are not cheap and neither are solar panels. And you would still have a sizable electricity bill in the winter to run the heat pumps. Maybe do a cost analysis?

(We are using heat pumps in the winter and have solar panels which generate our summer/early fall electricity. Wood burning insert for back up. Older farmhouse near Wiscasset with some insulation. )

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Dry-Persimmon-2234 t1_j5kjwkq wrote

Pellet stoves. It’s a little bit of work but with the right placement you can heat a lot for a little. 10 tons of pellets is only 3000 your paying that every two months now

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Themell t1_j5kr83a wrote

Rent somewhere cheaper

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InvadeHerKim t1_j5l95ql wrote

My parents bought heat pumps for their living room and den which are on the same level in 2021. My dad says their furnace rarely kicks on and only primarily heats the upstairs of their 2400 sq feet-ish home or if it's super cold, like below zero cold, but that's just to help supplement the heat pumps because they're working hard to keep temp in below zero cold.

He used a DIY kit called Mr Cool and did the installation himself. He has a lot of mechanical and DIY experience. He said he wished he'd put one unit upstairs and one downstairs because one unit handles the entire downstairs and having two on the same floor is overload. He doesn't regret the switch at all.

We plan to switch to a heat pump in the house my husband and I are in for the same reason, oil is too damn expensive and the added bonus of a heat pump is they are an A/C in the summer an d our summers have been getting more and more hot and humid each summer. Best of luck to you!

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lama_drama99 t1_j5layds wrote

Have you looked into wood or pellet? Wood heat is amazing, but stacking and lugging the wood can be a lot. Pellets are great as well, heats well, cost effective, less maintenance, and you don't have to stack and lug it around the same as you do wood.

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Breezy207 t1_j5lqadr wrote

We had Efficiency Maine do an audit-it was amazing to watch the blower door test readings go down after they sealed drafty spots around window trim, chimney chases, etc. We received a multi-page report on steps we could take to further insulate and a list of contractors, too. Highly recommend an audit.

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Existing_Earth9786 t1_j5nusre wrote

https://www.maine.gov/energy/heating-fuel-prices

All other things aside, it all comes down to cost per BTU, and cordwood is consistently the cheapest, often by far. It will likely remain so especially with electric rates going up. It’s a little work (handling, etc) but a wood stove is the cheapest heat in Maine. I live in a fairly small house (1300 sq ft) in Aroostook and burn about 3 cord a year at ~130 a cord (I buy tree length and process it myself, I consider it to be a gym membership that pays me). It’s dirt cheap, dries the house out and nice to look at. I have oil heat mostly for shoulder seasons or to keep the house from freezing if I’m away. Less than half a tank of oil most winters.

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Existing_Earth9786 t1_j5nv0qx wrote

Another thing, if you don’t have zone heating, you can manually block off parts of your house if you don’t use them. Before we had kids, my wife and I used to sleep down in the living room all winter by the wood stove and blocked off the upstairs (nothing but three bedrooms up there) with an insulated panel. Slashed our heating by over half.

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IamSauerKraut t1_j5jnonn wrote

Plenty of folks will talk about the unit that delivers the heat, but how is that heat distributed in your house? Is your unit delivering via forced hot water into a baseboard or radiator? Is it forced hot air? Replacing a unit and its fuel source is relatively easy (ignoring the price) but if you currently are heated by the distribution of hot water, then you've got a whole nuther layer of work and cost to consider. Look at all parts of your heating/ac situation, consider the work that needs done, price it out as best you can, and then make a decision.

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infinite_zero OP t1_j5kcnwv wrote

Forced hot air. Ducts were redone a few years back so they should be well-sealed with efficient paths.

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IamSauerKraut t1_j5klflc wrote

If you go with a heat pump setup, you might want to skip the energy efficient varieties due to the size of your house and because it can take a bit of time for the temp to get up to/stay where you want it. Some will poo-poo that as a small consideration but if it is important to anyone in your house...

Electric vs. NG vs. propane.

Asked around a few years ago on the makes family members use in other states and the 5 which are used are Magic Chef, Lennox, Amana, Trane, and Carrier. The latter 2 are used by several. Magic Chef was bought out by Lennox ~ 1990, so I am guessing that unit is way old. Opinions on Lennox are of the meh variety, primarily due to fuel used. 2 Amana units in ranchers are HE electric units which have some issues on sub-20 degree days. The Trane and Carrier units are most often used and are highly regarded, although one Carrier had the burner box installed incorrectly. Servicing is an issue due to lack of trained technicians and pricing. Amazing how much that changes from state to state. Guess it really is a buyer beware thing.

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King_O_Walpole t1_j5jgip5 wrote

Oil is the cheapest it’s been all winter

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Seyword t1_j5jlpu2 wrote

I paid $3.70 a gallon on January 1st and I’m seeing around $4 right now.

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Septicrogue t1_j5jo3m4 wrote

Same looked up prices using heatable and for the Bangor / Orono area it was 3.98

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Notmystationbro t1_j5k47ta wrote

That Maine green bud got you messed up if you think oil is cheaper than it’s been all winter. Remember just a few years ago when it was affordable until Joe came around and declared war on fossil fuels?

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King_O_Walpole t1_j5k7o03 wrote

Found the Trump bootlicker

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Notmystationbro t1_j5ldhzq wrote

Found the Pedo sniffing Biden voter

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King_O_Walpole t1_j5lk0jd wrote

I hate all politicians, so shut your man pleasing mouth and go fondle yourself to Tucker Carlson.

The Inbred, uneducated, little bitch that you are

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plaidprowler t1_j5pgqyq wrote

Damn you just stay ignorant, it's kind of hilarious

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Notmystationbro t1_j5pi4mn wrote

You stay ignorant because this came from the idiot in chiefs mouth. Why do you think oil is so high under this green energy fossil fuel killing administration? https://youtu.be/Slszva6kk90

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plaidprowler t1_j5pital wrote

lmao damn man way to prove my point

We had a strategic reserve we tapped into heavily when factors that had nothing to do with biden raised the price of oil. Not sure how biden literally increasing the amount of domestic oil in supply raised the price of oil, but Im sure you'll ignore this.

Not surprised you prefer sound bytes to actual information, that seems to be a hallmark of right wing idiots

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