Its def a lot less touristy than Phuket. There is a surf shop in Bang Niang - which is one 'town' north of Khao Lak. I think the surf starts picking up about this time of year (April-ish). There is an expat scene, but it's mostly divers. Most know each other from working together. There used to be a bar called the Happy Snapper where most could be found, but I believe it's closed down now. Not sure where the new expat hangout is, but it shouldn't be hard to find.