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ChainOut t1_j9dlbgi wrote

Reply to comment by porcelainvacation in How do I find these g-d studs?? by WaterChestnutII

My house was built in the 90's and has some on 16" and some on 24". Annoying.

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EmptyAirEmptyHead t1_j9dsxpo wrote

24" is non-load bearing interior walls. Some interior walls are load bearing depending on the span of your roof. 16" is load bearing.

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gravitologist t1_j9e5nhp wrote

24 can be load bearing too if you do stacked framing. In regions w low live loads it’s common and more than adequate.

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PersnickityPenguin t1_j9e8drp wrote

“Advanced” framing

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Dsiee t1_j9ekobf wrote

Well "Cheap" framing doesn't sound quite as nice on a quote.

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gravitologist t1_j9fkfsb wrote

Well, yes, there is less lumber and thus it’s less expensive. But it is arguably a superior construction method because there is less thermal bridging and so the insulation performs better.

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Dsiee t1_j9ix1dp wrote

I agree, I used much of the methodology in my recent build but it is still cheaper.

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WestWoodworks t1_j9dzwz1 wrote

Eh… not always… not even usually, in my area. At least for interior walls.

Typically only walls perpendicular to the joists are load bearing (though there are rare exceptions).

Load bearing walls should all have proper point load (translating the actual load all the way down to the foundation in a direct path).

Though not always required depending on the region, double top plates are almost always used for load bearing walls, and not for partition (non loading bearing) walls. This is especially noteworthy if you are in a situation like I am right now with 19.2 OC main floor joists, 16 OC main floor studs, and 24 OC joists and rafters in the attic/roof. The double plate gives you a bit of latitude to work with for adequate point load.

For simplicity and consistency’s sake, I frame every wall at 16 OC in a typical stick built home. And that’s typically the case for most other builders in my area.

But, it’s also worth noting that some areas are fully ok with 24 OC 2x4 walls throughout. I definitely don’t recommend it. But you can get away with it in some places without a fuss.

Then, of course you get into engineered lumber, trusses, etc., and shit gets exciting. Suddenly, you have no interior load bearing walls, exterior load bearing walls are mostly header to accommodate an insulting number of floor to ceiling windows… all sorts of tomfoolery and poppycock.

But, anyway… when in doubt consult a structural engineer… don’t be that asshole that has to dig someone’s dead dog out of the rubble of the house you just destroyed by removing something you shouldn’t have. Engineers are often pompous douche bags (at least in my area), but they’ve saved my bacon a few times when things weren’t so cut and dry because of prior shoddy work that disguised major structural issues.

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