How to fix truss lift cracks?

Submitted by flaccid_porcupine t3_11ecnv5 in DIY

It's our 2nd winter in our new wood built (Canada) home. The drywall where wall meets ceiling gets pretty bad in winter as everything dries up and then expands out in our humid summer. We have some gaps that are about 6mm / 1/4". Most just lift the ceiling portion and the drywall tape holds, but makes an obvious curve.

Aside from Crown moulding, how can I address this to stop it from happening?

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flaccid_porcupine OP t1_jadaoep wrote

Replying to [deleted] (#2,111,154)

Thank you for the reply! My understanding is this should/could have been addressed at the construction phase, like you say. My builder is out of the question for any resolution, as they are getting hit with some lawsuits by us and neighbours (surprise, surprise...).

Do you think it would be possible to help address this by getting up into the attic and screwing the trusses down to the top of the wall? I'm unsure, as it all wants to move and will want to continue to do so... it might not appreciate being restrained and that could manifest something worse

The 1/4" gap above our tiled shower wall is a real eyesore that even crown moulding won't fix (shower area = wet)

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seltzer33 t1_jadkdq6 wrote

Replying to flaccid_porcupine (#2,111,673)

I have truss lift at my home as well. From what I've researched, nailing or screwing the trusses to the walls runs the risk of the entire wall being pulled up from the bottom plate or breaking/splitting the wood.

A couple of years ago, I had enough of it, went into the attic and located the nails were the drywall was fastened to the trusses in relation to the corners of rooms that had broken drywall seams. I used an oscillating tool to cut only those perimeter nails where the lift was happening. My ceiling drywall was installed before the walls so there no worry of it falling or sagging.

I'm a DIY'er for sure, so don't take this as gospel for your home, but thus far I've had no issues since.

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MrPicklePop t1_jadkt6h wrote

Do not allow any water to get under your house. Gutters and point them away from the house. If you’re on a slope, divert flow around the house.

Keep everything inside at a stable humidity using an air conditioner during the summer and possibly a humidifier in the dry winter.

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SatanLifeProTips t1_jadmdh8 wrote

Wait until the cracks are biggest, open them up just a hair more and back fill with DAP Calking. (One of the few uses of DAP calking).

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Dsiee t1_jaefq4t wrote

Replying to SatanLifeProTips (#2,115,350)

I don't know about DAP Caulking (seems it is a brand and not a specific product so I couldn't look it up. I'm from Australia so we don't have it here).

Just make sure the filler you use is flexible. A lot of basic caulking dries are and will just rip drywall off or flex the sheet instead of stretching. There are flexible gap fillers that are silicone based which would be better. Bathroom ones are available in white and a mould resistant otherwise there are paintable flexible ones out there too.

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lumberman10 t1_jaerf3h wrote

There are clips to attach to the wall that actually hold the ceiling drywall. Then the ceiling floats over that area. Or in my case it was down a hallway (walls on both sides with a 4 ft wide hallway,) Went up and put studs across the hallway that were attached to the walls. Then screw into that for ceiling drywall. Remove screws/ nails on ceiling that are screwed into the roof truss. Finally that solved my son's truss uplift issues. His was right in the middle of the house and would lift up 3/8 of a inch in the winter. Also make sure your attic ventilation is up to code. And correctly done.

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