I'd send it.

You could probably sister a second piece in there with the space you have.

Shouldn't be a problem. You could always reinforce but I doubt it's that serious.

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Interior wall? If not I’d be more concerned there’s no insulation in there. It’s probably not a load bearing wall either but if it is then you should sister it on the other side. You could also frame it in like a window but that’s probably all over kill.

If the car isn't fat, I'd just install a slim door.

Otherwise, I'd open up the hole more on the side away from the stud to fit the door.

You could cut into studs, but without further reinforcement, you'll be weakening that section of the wall. Forces from the heavy roof sit on the vertical studs and are transmitted down to the foundation.

Now, houses are generally built "stronger" than they need to be for cases of earthquake, wind, unusually heavy loads, etc, so notching 1 stud is not likely to bring the whole wall down.... But you never know how unlucky you are - you might just happen to notch into that one stud that'll lead to sagging.

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Strengthen that hole? Just like a dryer vent, you'd box it with metal plates, plywood, etc. secured to the drywall. That'll provide sufficient strength so a fat cat isn't going to fall into the wall, and prevent wall flex.

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The plaster side is the original framing and probably more important. Maybe frame it like a mini door though.

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Only an inch? Cut it and forget about it. I think it’s mostly there to support the drywall.

Yo…

That doesn’t even look like a 2x4 to me - what are the dimensions of that piece of wood, you say 2x3? No way that is 2 inches deep.

Looks like strapping. Also any real important studs would typically not have the longer side against the drywall like that.

Again, measure it. What are the dimensions?

Doesn’t look like a stud. Even from the grain on the wood it looks like strapping.

Yeah it’s a 2x3. It’s very close to the original 2x4 stud. Basically the original side of the wall was kept and the other side of the wall was replaced with drywall, only, the drywall sections were not cut to line up with the original studs. So it has these 2x3 studs to hold the drywall together. I guess I’m just worried whether cutting out the 2x3 will weaken the rest of the drywall.

It's safe to cut it out, removing one interior stud won't make any difference.

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Just cut it. The other side of lathe is more then enough to strengthen the wall. I wouldn't think twice about it.

I was going to give my advice but after reading the other posts, they've got you covered.

Cut it out and put an action figure holding it up in its place.

That's no stud. It's a light drywall support. Cut away.

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What's the rough in for a cat door?

Brace a 2x across from stud to stud and frame in the door fully, you will be fine

No way. If it’s just drywall backing cut away. I would cut it out without hesitation.

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drywall is normally ok to fuck up. studs I wouldn't mess with

> there anything I can put around the edge of the drywall and plaster where I have made the cut out to make it neater? Some kind of plastic trim?

Most cat doors come with trim pieces for both sides to cover the rough cut hole. Yours should, get a different one if not.

I would just move the cat door over an inch.

Sometimes it helps to be able to recognize when it's actually you yourself that might not be getting something.

Maybe I'm seeing an optical illusion here, but sure looks like that 2x4 is rotated 90 degrees from how you'd normally have a stud oriented. And is it even a 2x4? Might be a 2x3.

Only time I've intentionally framed one rotated that way for anything structural was in a corner. Otherwise, it might only be serving to hold drywall, so if that's the case, there shouldn't be much worry in hacking it up a bit.

Would be better to move the hole over if you can. If not lick the stamp and send it. If it were a group of studs that's one thing. One stud turned 90 in the middle of the wall? Nbd.

For the plaster, use something like this to reinforce it since you probably knocked off the keys (the plaster that was pushed through the lath and hardened after drooping a bit, that’s what normally holds the plaster tightly to the lath.) when you were cutting.

https://plastermagic.com/adhesive-reattachment/

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If you cut it out it will put a load on the wall (basically hanging on the inside of the wall), so I'd at least try to support it somehow by adding a stud for it on the inside.

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But why not just move the cat hole a bit to the right (in the picture) and plaster (and paint etc) up the cuts instead of bothering with the stud? It seems easier.

You did find the stud 😉, I would just cut it and if you are uncertain you could back the drywall on the side of the stud. So cut a piece of 2×whatever you have lying around about 3-4 inches larger as the height of the catflap and work this to the side of the stud and put some screws in it... Should be sufficient

It doesn’t look structural ( I hope that’s not what’s holding your house up). Cut away.

looks like someone patched that at some point because of the mesh under the texture, and that stud is on the flat. I dont know why it's there maybe it was used for backing. Could of been supporting a drywall patch and they used a scrap 2x4

I'm not sure why you would want to when you can move your hole over to where there aren't any studs and patch what you cut out in front of the stud.

I used this (it had plenty of trim included to cover a not perfect cut. My obese cat manages to get through even though it was to just let the thin one through). https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079QPL57P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

> might only be serving to hold drywall,

That's exactly what it is. A drywall backer. Framers often need to add these in inside corners where one piece of drywall would lack support.

Cut it, that stud is there for drywall Backing and not a supporting stud.

Cut it

Do you have any actual construction experience?

I'd cut it. But if you're worried about it, build a support box the length of the tunnel by cutting 4 pieces from an appropriate size board, then use some wood glue and some brads to make a 4 sided box. Place it in the tunnel making sure it fits firmly by using a hammer to knock it in. All you need to do then is affix the cat flap.

ADDITIONAL: I just want to add that if your cat is anything like a cat I had a few years ago, she'll look at the door flap at first with suspicion, then with trepidation as she'd go over and hit it with her paw a few times like she was testing it. After testing it she'd walk away, sticking her tail, and head into the air ignoring the flap from then on. Coming home from work one night we did find her stretched partially through the flap yowling her head off like she was singing holding a catnip mouse, completely high. She only did it once. At least that we caught her at. So good luck with your door flap.

I would slide the door over 3.5” and patch drywall. It is likley just a flimsy partition wall ment to maximize the space in the room. If that is the case it would be non structural, can’t say for certain without seeing more though.

Put you cat on a diet and just put a smaller on in.

If that stub is not load bearing cut it as for the edges there is bull nose edging I think it’s called it’s for the corners of drywall you can bend it and screw it in place I personally don’t think you need to worry about fire right there because sheet rock is fire retardant and I don’t see insulation.

you will probably get away with what you are doing. But don't make a habit of it. Sooner or later you would find the limits the structure can handle and ten it collapses.

I know guy who did just that. his house collapsed in on him.

Properly speaking, you should put a header and sill plate in.

No. Engineer.

But everyone skilled in the trades or not can learn the basics of structural integrity and such.

Even lego structures teach a lot about what can be removed and what will bring the house down.

I mean... Even 2x4 studs 16 to 24 inches apart for a wall - what can take one down? In Real life?

You'd have to drive a car through the wall, fire, or major earthquake for the wall to truly "fail" in a bad way.

Thankfully, lawyers and architects understand they need to design around dummies, resulting in construction code that builders follow to build structures capable to withstanding stresses well beyond what stresses the majority of buildings actually encounter in their lifetimes.

But code isn't the only way to build a strong home.

E.g. Go to an Pacific island and bamboo homes using no nails or screws have no issues withstanding heavy storms, yet wouldn't pass any USA building code inspection.

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As for cutting or not, I'd recommended not cutting the stud. But if one does, how likely is the home going to collapse or encounter major failure - low.

Now low isn't zero, but hey, not my home.

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Could one it better cutting thru?

Sure. Frame it all around - all 4 sides of the cutout - like a window and let that upper stud's downward force travel around the "frame" to the stud below and voila! (Yes, there's more to it, but the general idea.)

I’d cut that shit right out and deal with the absorbency and gravity deficiencies later. The worst that can happen is the wall will no longer absorb as much gravity from the air and floats away to space because it’s no longer properly anchored. You can fix that problem with wall anchors above the cut and some caulk on the cut end to keep the gravity from falling out of the 2x4. Kitty gonna love the door. Good luck.

Thanks. Yes, I fully expect that my cat will refuse to use the flap out of pure spite.

Anyone qualified to give good advice for this person would instantly recognize that as deadwood, not a stud. A stud will sit perpendicular to the drywall instead of parallel. As an engineer, you should know this.

It's on the flat from joining two sheets or a repair, shouldn't be a problem. Especially since you're only cutting part of it.

Just make sure you hold it securely while you cut it so vibrations don't pop all the screws/nails in it.

And as a person who's seen crazy things from actual life, you'd know that what should be a perpendicular stud might actually be installed "wrong" because people are sometimes idiots and then you get buildings with all sorts of WTH!?!...

There's no info from the op whether that wall was there originally, or someone moved/turned a wall and built a new one around whatever studs were there. No info on the actual architecture of the home, etc.

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So, rather than assume from afar, which is one way to make the unexpected into a real problem, simply proceed as if that is a true load bearing stud to minimize the Oh F#!*' moments.

This is also safer for the op because he doesn't have any good way to ensure 100% whether this is or isn't load bearing - doesn't have the access or experience.

Installed wrong, huh? I would stick to desk jockeying and leave the remodeling advice for the people who have been there and done that.