Lightswitch mystery wiring

Submitted by CmdrCody84 t3_10ma21a in DIY

Our bedroom ceiling fan light began to flicker and I took the switchplate cover off to find a.mess.

There are 3 White wires twisted together with a workout - not connected to Switch.

2 Black Stabbed In 1 hooked to the screw lead

All three of those are black.

At one point, I flipped a breaker and the ceiling fan/light stayed on and Switch failed to work.

I heard arcing when moving the wires, so a few possible nicks.

What do I do here? Pigtail the neutral wires to a NEW single pole Switch and pigtail the Load wires too?

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Anakin_Skywanker t1_j628wcf wrote

Licensed electrician here.

  1. I looked at the pictures in your comments. That's not really a mess. The only thing wrong is the use of backstabs.

  2. Arcing doesn't usually indicate a nicked wire, it indicates a loose connection 99% of the time. Probably in the backstabs.

  3. If you turned off the breaker and the light stayed on but the switch stopped working you likely killed the wrong breaker and the switch is just broken (failing on). Likely due to the backstabs.

  4. You need a multimeter to properly troubleshoot.

  5. Hire am electrician. The questions you're asking and observations you're making indicate you are woefully under qualified to work on this.

  6. Since you're going to ignore point number 5, replace the switch. Pugtail the bottom hots and use the terminal screws this time. I suspect that's the issue, but I can't be 100% certain over the internet.

  7. Be careful, good luck.

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Silver_Smurfer t1_j61vhu3 wrote

If you flipped the breaker and it stayed on, I would call that electrician territory.

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FLTDI t1_j61xfe5 wrote

3 white are common, they should be connected together and not tied to the switch.

One of the stabbed wires is the load and one is the line. That's normal. The 3rd on the screw is either a continuation of the load or the line, it'll be the same as the screw it is closest to.

Your suggestion of connecting all the black together and white together and having them on one switch is a very wrong idea. Do not do that.

You need to figure out which breaker controls this switch

Figure out which wire is the the line (power supply) will be hot with the switch off.

Then figure out which line is the load.

There is a chance your switch itself is just failing and you need to replace it. But do NOT change the wiring unless you absolutely know what you're dealing with.

If you have any photos it'll be helpful

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CmdrCody84 OP t1_j62060l wrote

I tried posting pics but the post was removed

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FLTDI t1_j620f8b wrote

Link to imgur in a comment maybe?

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CmdrCody84 OP t1_j621daj wrote

https://imgur.com/a/LucPUkZ

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FLTDI t1_j621uxs wrote

Ok yep, I think I'm correct.

Leave the white alone

The bottom black are line. One is hot and the other goes to another switch. The top one goes to your load (lamp fan etc)

The switch looks older. I suggest getting a new single pole switch and wire it exactly the same. FYI some new switches won't have the insert and screw, so you would just put both wires in the bottom on the same screw (with a pig tail)

Ground (bare copper) goes back on the ground.

Make sure when you stuff it all back in the box the ground doesn't hit either of the screws. That can cause a breaker to pop.

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Pilanenp t1_j622afu wrote

Don’t put put 2 wires on the same screw. Do it right and splice a pigtail

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FLTDI t1_j623l3c wrote

Edited to add that detail. My intent was to pigtail them into one connection but my wording was poor.

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CmdrCody84 OP t1_j61xtl4 wrote

Roger that will give it a try. I spent $300 last month just to have a Big Name Electrician Company replace a lightswitch at the same property. Trying to get back in the swing of electronics

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FLTDI t1_j61y2qv wrote

If you can find a small, local electrician you'll be much better off. Those huge companies with the fancy commercials and fleet of vans have a huge overhead bill to pay.

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CmdrCody84 OP t1_j61ugk6 wrote

Also only the hooked black wire had power when I used my power tester. No multimeter yet.

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Beer_Lasers t1_j625bf8 wrote

I’d be willing to bet that the backstabbed connection is failing and that you need to use the screws instead. I hate backstabbed wiring.

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WaldoWal t1_j62b4hz wrote

I agree on FLTDI's advice, but I'm worried that's not your culprit. If rewiring the switch doesn't stop the flicker, keep checking other outlets and lights on that circuit until you find it. I had a light recently that flickered whenever a lamp on the same circuit was turned on. I dragged my feet on investigating, and a couple of days later, it went completely out. When I took down the light and looked at the wires, they had burned up. I was lucky the heat/fire stayed in the box.

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fredsam25 t1_j63fz6a wrote

Did you try replacing the light? It's likely fluorescent or LED, both can flicker at end of life. Hopefully the light is replaceable. If the fan runs without stuttering in sync with the light, then it's the light that's the problem, not the switch.

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CmdrCody84 OP t1_j64gci7 wrote

Lightvwas flickering without fan being on.

This was a light kit added to the fan (same brand _ Harbor Breeze) and if replacing lightswitch will not work I will recheck all wiring and then replace bulbs

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CmdrCody84 OP t1_j64go1q wrote

Additionally this is a rental property where multiple tenants have "fiddled" with everything since its construction 1984/1985.

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