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Apprehensive-Egg374 OP t1_j63uwgj wrote

Thank you so so much!! That was so incredibly detailed and helpful!! I really owe you so so much!!

I have to ask since you really seem to be able to explain things well: Do you think it would be possible to setup a washing machine to get hot/cold water and drain to under the kitchen sink?

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squarebacksteve t1_j64734h wrote

Short answer, no, not without extensive work. You're better off hiring a licensed plumber for that kind of addition if you want to do it right.

Another thing to mention, when you remove the old valves from the pipes coming from the wall, you should use two wrenches. Ideally, a small pipe wrench for the pipe coming from the wall, and an adjustable wrench or tongue and groove pliers for the valve. Two t&g pliers would also be just fine if you don't mind some cosmetic scratches.

One will be used to remove the valve, the other pair will be placed in the opposite direction to HOLD THAT WALL PIPE STILL

Don't let the pipe coming from the wall rotate or you might have to unthread it completely and reapply tape/dope to reseal it. Speaking of tape and dope, tape should only ever be applied clockwise, otherwise tightening a new fitting can unwrap the tape. So when you remove that valve, looking down the barrel of that wall pipe, you'll apply 3-4 full wraps of tape in a clockwise direction. You won't need pipe dope, but I always smear a real small amount onto the tape. It makes it take that much less effort to tighten things together. A sharp knife is less dangerous than a dull one, and you'll need less force in an already awkward position (working under sinks is fun!) to properly tighten things up. Think snug, not cranked on. There's nothing to be gained from overtightening.

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