Submitted by Apprehensive-Egg374 t3_10lfuwo in DIY
pollo316 t1_j5z46sl wrote
Reply to comment by Apprehensive-Egg374 in How can I add a second 1/4 inch water line to under my kitchen sink? by Apprehensive-Egg374
Pex is the easiest solution you can get an adapter for 1/2 threaded pipe and then use shark bite fittings or get pex crimp rings and the tool to tighten them. Copper would require you to solder at some juncture. But again I'd need to see your whole system to give you the best options. YouTube is your friend. Plenty of videos on all the connectors and ways to accomplish this.
Apprehensive-Egg374 OP t1_j607nqk wrote
Here are some better pictures of the pipes:
Apprehensive-Egg374 OP t1_j607xlv wrote
Do you have more specific advice based on these pictures? Like does the pipe need to be removed? Or is it fine as is? If it should be replaced, you think Pex is the best bet?
Apprehensive-Egg374 OP t1_j61s9vk wrote
Turns out the bottom shutter valve actually does not work. So I’ll have to replace it. Would replacing it with this shutter valve work?
1/2-in Compression x 1/2-in Compression Brass Quarter Turn Stop Angle Valve
All I need to do is turn off the main water line, make sure the water is actually off, take off the old shutter valve, stick the new shutter valve on the pipe, tighten it with a wrench, (no pipe dope and no Teflon tape since it’s a compression fitting right?), then add another 1/2 inch pipe (copper or brass?) and I’m good?
pollo316 t1_j61sxwr wrote
No again I can't see whats coming front hr wall but it appears to be a threaded end. You will need a threaded compression valve to twist into the existing pipe, compression only works on copper.
I recommend shopping for parts through supplyhouse.com. you can even call and they will take you through what you'll need.
The stub coming from the wall being threaded will require a female end quarter stop to 3/8 threaded end for your T to attach your water line to fridge and the cold water for your faucet mixer.
pollo316 t1_j61tbrm wrote
As long as your other shutoff above it works there isn't really a need to remove the old one either. I would just leave it be personally.
pollo316 t1_j61tdmn wrote
As long as your other shutoff above it works there isn't really a need to remove the old one either. I would just leave it be personally.
Apprehensive-Egg374 OP t1_j63w0du wrote
Thank you so so much!!
Do you think it would be possible to setup a washing machine to get hot/cold water and drain to under the kitchen sink?
pollo316 t1_j63wdgy wrote
Not easily. You'd probably want a plumber for that.
Apprehensive-Egg374 OP t1_j63x28g wrote
I brought in two plumbers a month ago and they both told me I couldn’t do it because I need a SUDS line and they would need to make another vent for the washer and they wanted $4,000+.
I don’t see why I need a SUDS line if it’s a high efficiency washer. Do I still need a SUDS line? Or can I just use my kitchen drain?
For the vent, if I use a 3 inch P-trap, I should have 12 feet worth of room to work with no? I don’t see why there would be a need to install a separate vent for the washer. I’ve also seen online some people just use the same P trap they are using for the dishwasher and kitchen faucet for the washing machine too. So I’m not sure if that’s okay to do here too.
Any ideas?
Thank you so much for all of your help so far!
pollo316 t1_j63y6p7 wrote
Yea I'm siding with the plumbers here. You need a vent and a proper drain and that's the issue. The water supply is not a problem but to drain and vent properly.
To do this the right way you need access behind your cabinets and to cut along studs to run everything behind the wall. It's a fairly big job, 4000 seems a tad high but not out of line. You might be able to save some money by running the water lines yourself.
You could try an oatey sure vent so you don't have to vent outside but you might find that doesn't fully vent your sewer gas and you'll get smells inside.
Apprehensive-Egg374 OP t1_j6421ui wrote
Before I ask about the washer, I have a quick question. I’m realizing now that when I try to take off the shutter valve, the pipe may crack, or the threads for the pipe might come off with the shutter valve. If that happens, the other end of the pipe is far behind the wall and I don’t have access to it to replace the whole pipe. Would there be a way to solve this issue in case it happens without removing the wall to change the pipe? Like is there an adaptor or something that I can use to attach to the pipe if it breaks off to give me a threaded end to use?
pollo316 t1_j642x3s wrote
If you break a section you'll need to move further down the line to the next threaded section and attach there.
Apprehensive-Egg374 OP t1_j644c1r wrote
The issue is the end of that pipe is far behind the wall and i don’t have access to it. Is there anyway to cut the pipe straight if it breaks and then use an adapter of some sort?
(In theory if you were to break the wall and then take the end of the pipe in the wall off, you can run into the same issue again where the next pipe breaks or it’s threads come off since the building piping I’m sure is really old).
pollo316 t1_j645ex1 wrote
No.
Apprehensive-Egg374 OP t1_j651la6 wrote
How about this? If the brass pipe coming from the wall brakes off, can I cut it and then deburr it, and then use this shark bite attachment?
pollo316 t1_j653n2f wrote
You don't have brass. You have galvanized pipe. You can't shark bite galvanized pipe you would need a threaded adapter at some juncture to go from galvanized to another pipe material.
Apprehensive-Egg374 OP t1_j654i65 wrote
Doesn’t galvanized pipe fall under IPS? (I’m not questioning. I’m just trying to learn).
Also, how can you tell the pipe coming from the wall is galvanized and not brass? Isn’t galvanized usually steel color?
pollo316 t1_j655n5z wrote
It's all threaded pipe from what I can see. You cannot just cut galvanized and reconnect with a sharkbite because of the outside diameter. Sure the IPS is all the same but the sharkbite has an ops that is less than galvanized line. Secondly they are not designed for galvanized line.you can get a female 1/2" threaded to sharkbite and screw the thread into your existing line and then convert the rest to copper or pex, but at some point it appears you need a threaded connection along the way. The only way you can cut a pipe and use a sharkbite is on copper or pex.
I think you need a plumber at this point.
The other question here is how are you going to shutoff to make these changes? The t you want to move is below your working shutoff. If this is an apartment I'm not sure you'll be able to do the shutoff further down the line and not affect your neighbors.
Apprehensive-Egg374 OP t1_j6akxjh wrote
I believe the super can turn off my water and do it. I’ll let you know how it goes!
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