Submitted by Apprehensive-Egg374 t3_10lfuwo in DIY
Inchkeaton t1_j5xssji wrote
Reply to comment by its8up in How can I add a second 1/4 inch water line to under my kitchen sink? by Apprehensive-Egg374
Picture was deleted, but why would that be odd to you, how are you getting water to your dishwasher?
gothcopter t1_j5ykrp8 wrote
Dishwashers use only hot water, never cold. The dishwasher has it's own heating elements it can use to heat water to the correct temperature, but the dishwasher's heating system is less efficient than your water heater.
Inchkeaton t1_j5ymbax wrote
Must be another UK vs US thing, here in UK we generally connect only the cold mains to dishwashers.
Apprehensive-Egg374 OP t1_j5ylrn5 wrote
Yeah It was done wrong by the previous owner. so I’ll move it. Once I take the tee out, how do I put the pipe back into the bottom shutter valve? Do I just put Teflon tape on the pipe and then push it into the shutter valve?
Maplelongjohn t1_j5yx9d7 wrote
Those old ass valves are likely junk.
That's why they added more valves.
If you are going to move that DW T you're going to have to shut off the main.
Any threaded pipe needs pipe dope.
Compression fittings (like dishwasher line and faucet lines) don't need anything as they are a mechanical seal and they'll have a rubber gasket in the end of the line
The dishwasher should have a separate shut off. If you are doing it,do it right and add one.
Apprehensive-Egg374 OP t1_j5z1ag1 wrote
Once the main is being shut off, is it hard to replace the old shut off valve on the bottom and the pipe? If not, what should I replace then with?
Apprehensive-Egg374 OP t1_j608a8c wrote
Here are some better pictures of the pIpes:
Do you have more specific advice based on these pictures? Like does the pipe need to be removed? Or is it fine as is? If it should be replaced, what do you think I should use to replace it with?
Maplelongjohn t1_j63xjib wrote
What I would do
Wait til Monday because an emergency plumber on the weekend cost 2x.
Shut off water
Drain system
Careful remove those valves. Unscrew the flex lines. Remove everything coming up from the old valves. Make sure to use 2 wrenches to counter hold the fixture so you don't accidentally snap anything off.
Remove the old valves holding the pipe coming out of the wall. Hopefully the threads stay on the pipe .
If that all comes apart without incident you've pretty much done it.
You need to verify the size of the pipe from the wall- is it 1/2 or 3/8" NPT (national pipe thread)
Find new quarter turn stops that fit that pipe(1/2 FPT(female pipe thread) x 3/8 compression is common)
You can find bullhead stops as well, so each fixture has a valve. 1/2 NPT x 3/8comp x 3/8 comp for dishwasher and likely one with a 3/8 & 1/4 comp for cold side.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/SharkBite-Brass-1-2-in-Fip-x-3-8-in-Compression-Quarter-Turn/1001852370
Now that would work to get you back to where you are now,. looking for a place to connect the fridge.
You can use a compression T https://www.lowes.com/pd/Dial-Brass-Evaporative-Cooler-Water-Hook-Up-Kit/3092871
But I'd use 1/4" copper tubing to connect that tee to the stop.
Then you'll have 2 @1/4 compression and one 3/8 compression fitting for sink, water filter and fridge.
The hot side you'll have 2 @ 3/8 for the faucet and the dishwasher
Apprehensive-Egg374 OP t1_j63yoy3 wrote
Thank you so so much!! That was very detailed and helpful!! I really appreciate it!
In case the pipe thread does come off, what would I do? I don’t have access to the other side of the pipe as it’s behind the wall…Would there be a way to fix it with an adaptor or something?
One more question if you don’t mind: Do you think it would be possible to setup a washing machine to get hot/cold water and drain to under the kitchen sink?
Maplelongjohn t1_j6456r2 wrote
Sometimes the pipe threads/ end of pipe can be removed with an easy out, if not that's where the plumber and a repipe comes into play.
Likely need to open the wall. What's on the other side of this wall?
Negative on that laundry.
But if you have a plumber come they can assess the situation and make recommendations.
Apprehensive-Egg374 OP t1_j6474tj wrote
The other side of the wall is another apartments bedroom. I live in an apartment building (I own my unit). Thats somewhat the issue. If the pipe threads come off, the other pipe thread is far behind the wall and I’d have the break the wall. And it’s possible the next pipe behind the wall also breaks off when you try take that pipe off lol so it can be endless. The building is very old and so I’m sure the piping is very old as well. Is there a way that if the threads come off, I could cut the pipe to make the ends straight, and then attach some type of adapter or something? Or the only way is really to keep removing pipes behind the wall till you get a thread?
Maplelongjohn t1_j64v3ap wrote
I imagine you can't even shut off your own unit without the whole building and thusly that assembly of stops and fittings you have there ...
I'd just add another add a t for the fridge and be done with it
Or get ready for a barely reasonable to quite large plumbers bill...
Chicago? I'd guess from the brass drain assembly.
Get an outlet cover on the electric, no reason for that.
Apprehensive-Egg374 OP t1_j651hln wrote
The super can close my apartments water. I’m in NY.
If the brass pipe coming from the wall brakes off, can I cut it and then deburr it, and then use this shark bite attachment?
Maplelongjohn t1_j63y2ip wrote
Now if anything goes wrong what your concerned about is the 2 pipes coming out of the walls.
These are probably corroded and mostly clogged up. The threads might stay in the valves when you go to remove it.
You may be able to unthread the pipe from the wall and replace that.
The pipe may snap off inside the wall as soon as you touch anything, and necessitate opening the wall and running new pipe to the sink.
Apprehensive-Egg374 OP t1_j642crx wrote
So I’m in an apartment (I own it) and I don’t have access to behind the walls. And the end of the pipe is behind the walls. So if when I try to take off the shutter valve, the pipe cracks, or the threads for the pipe comes off with the shutter valve, the other end of the pipe is far behind the wall and I don’t have access to it to replace the whole pipe. Would there be a way to solve this issue in case it happens without removing the wall to change the pipe? Like is there an adaptor or something that I can use to attach to the pipe if it breaks off to give me a threaded end to use?
Maplelongjohn t1_j646kdd wrote
You'd be opening the wall through the back of the cabinet then.
It's probably worth every penny to have a plumber come deal with this.
They know all the tricks to help prevent the worst case.
They have insurance too. In case the worst happens and you flood the neighbors.
Apprehensive-Egg374 OP t1_j61rrtf wrote
Turns out the bottom shutter valve actually does not work. So I’ll have to replace it. Would replacing it with this shutter valve work?
1/2-in Compression x 1/2-in Compression Brass Quarter Turn Stop Angle Valve
All I need to do is turn off the main water line, make sure the water is actually off, take off the old shutter valve, stick the new shutter valve on the pipe, tighten it with a wrench, (no pipe dope and no Teflon tape since it’s a compression fitting right?), then add another 1/2 inch pipe (copper or brass?) and I’m good?
Maplelongjohn t1_j61zqtn wrote
I think you should probably get a plumber.
You need to at least learn what the common types of connections are and how to make watertight.
It looks like 3/8 pipe coming out of the wall
That valve is definitely not what you want.
Apprehensive-Egg374 OP t1_j63w8uk wrote
Thank you so so much!!
Do you think it would be possible to setup a washing machine to get hot/cold water and drain to under the kitchen sink?
root_over_ssh t1_j5yu6fk wrote
I've seen instructions that do either hot or cold - I think it comes down to what your heat source is and how long the run from heater to dishwasher is.
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