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−19

Diligent_Nature t1_j6aca1q wrote

Live goes to the bulb's center contact. Neutral goes to the bulb's threads.

34

NewRelm t1_j6acidj wrote

If they're white and black, white is the neutral. If they're not color coded, you can use a DMM or continuity tester. The wire connecting to the center button is hot and the ring is neutral.

7

BlackBurnedTbone t1_j6ajxmn wrote

Doesn't matter for functionality. Has more to do with safety, as in make the rim the return so when you touch the thread you don't get shocked.

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Alt_dimension_visitr t1_j6aru7z wrote

Buy a $5 meter from harbour freight and do a continuity test like they've already told you

7

Robot_Lags t1_j6b2wqw wrote

Are they sort of a clear yellowish colour? If so they have a slightly different texture. One will be smooth and the other ridged.

3

bluenautilus2 t1_j6bemsg wrote

Sometimes there’s a non-colored indentation on the hot line, like a scratch on the coating.

0

sunfries t1_j6c2yhg wrote

Neutral will have a divot/extra bump or something. Hot should be entirely uniform

1

DrachenDad t1_j6cptna wrote

>Antique light

Safe bet is to just rewire with new cables, you can get fake antique cable.

1

Hot_Egg5840 t1_j6drgvj wrote

On real old antique lights, the wires will be cloth wrapped. Here is the way to tell "hot" vs. "return". Rewire the lamp and keep note of what wire you connect. The honest answer is to rewire the lamp for safety reasons.

3