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Life-Cow-7945 OP t1_j3irw94 wrote

Reply to comment by aZamaryk in washer for toilet ballcock nut? by Life-Cow-7945

So the end that connects to the toilet is flared, but it's hard PEX, so it doesn't make a real good seal

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aZamaryk t1_j3it44u wrote

Get a replacement hose? I like the braided ones, never had any issues.

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Life-Cow-7945 OP t1_j3iuzlv wrote

I actually switched to this after the braided hose leaked, partly because it was cheaper, and partly because I could have a line that was the exact right length

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aZamaryk t1_j3iv9xz wrote

In that case you might need a new fill valve. The valve body could be cracked from over tightening as they're plastic nowadays.

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HandsOnGeek t1_j3ittda wrote

I'm noticing you aren't mentioning a shut-off valve.
That's a problem. There should definitely be a shut-off valve between a supply line and a toilet. If you haven't got one, then you need to put one there. There will be a purpose-specific connector line between the shut-off valve and the toilet that will seal perfectly on both ends.

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Life-Cow-7945 OP t1_j3iv1wp wrote

I do have a shutoff valve, no issues with leaking there

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HandsOnGeek t1_j3j5dpt wrote

Did you check the making surface of the connector to the toilet before you coupled the line to it?

I once paid extra for a toilet flapper rebuild kit with the new seat because it was still leaking after I replaced the old one. It turns out there was just a hard water deposit stuck there that caused the new flapper to not be able to seal. I picked it off with a fingernail and cleaned it with white vinegar and it worked perfectly.

A quick scrub with a descaling cleaner like lime-away or CLR on a soft cloth could remove a nearly invisible deposit that is preventing a watertight seal.

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Life-Cow-7945 OP t1_j3j5if8 wrote

I like this idea, I'll give it a try, the toilet was in use before

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