Submitted by jshxx t3_zzvmms in DIY

Hi,

As attached in the image (not my image, found on google for illustration, the skirting im doing is about 8 foot in length also) I am wanting to put a nice straight grout line between the skirting and floor tiles, to finish them off, but im struggling to get the line even all the way across even when using tape as theres nothing to go off except eyeing it as I go.

As a sidenote the flooring is tiled as well, and the grout lines of the tiles go right up to the skirting, so ive resorted to tape to keep it easier/less messy for myself

So what im after really is, what would be the best/most logical way to scribe a straight line, roughly 2mm above the bottom of the skirting, so i can follow along with tape?

Thank you :)

https://preview.redd.it/hxrbmvt0x89a1.png?width=940&format=png&auto=webp&s=c104e1ed2e4eb68e262d3f0fc0a745164c724fd3

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Comments

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Uncanevale t1_j2dx6lm wrote

I would not grout that. Caulk matched to existing grout would be my preference.

If you want a line a fixed distance from the floor, just use a thin board of appropriate thickness to slide a marking device along the trim

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loganab13 t1_j2e1guu wrote

As stated, grout isn’t the solution here. Caulk is the answer.

4

jackson71 t1_j2e8mpn wrote

I assume you're talking about the gap between the base molding and tile.

Usually when base trim is held tight to floor when its installed.

At this point the correct way to finish this would be to add Shoe Molding.

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TootsNYC t1_j2e9y12 wrote

Use caulk. And a caulking tool can get you a nice straight line.

Be sure to use a paintable caulk.

And be extra careful to NOT get clear (the label for clear and the label for white look a little too much alike)

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buildyourown t1_j2egvzb wrote

Don't grout corners. Caulk smoothed over with a tool and that gap will disappear

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real_b_man t1_j2ekn58 wrote

Do not use grout or caulk. Install a shoe mould to the floor.

Grout will crack. Caulk is going to look dirty and awful after a month.

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amboogalard t1_j2enmv5 wrote

I’m really glad you’re taking this advice; the floor will flex differently than the walls, as does tile from skirting, so it would just be crack city. A flexible caulk is 100% the way to go. Or a wood corner bead (looks like a long stick with a side profile like 1/4 of a circle); less cleaning, though some caulks do much better with resisting grime than others.

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New_Engine_7237 t1_j2ep9q1 wrote

Use quarter round molding. It will bend to the contour of the floor and when standing, it will look perfect.

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cranky2022 t1_j2epbpp wrote

White caulk or shoe string molding would look great!

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rsogoodlooking t1_j2f8pum wrote

I'm on team caulk or team put a teeensy bit of wood in there and then caulk. But mostly team caulk. Houses now have much crisper lines, cleaner looks. That's just my observation. I take care of rich people, so I do stuff like this.

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FireWireBestWire t1_j2fg4vl wrote

And if you watch a couple of videos on caulking it will give you some tips on how to get it straight and even. The back of an old toothbrush handle works very well if you want to tool it after your line.

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m3galinux t1_j2fgsqo wrote

Same here. Worked great 3-4 years ago, but tried it again last month and it was awful. Consistency was all over the place and cracked like crazy once dry. Maybe they changed something in the formula recently?

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wordsmitty t1_j2fgwu6 wrote

This should be the top answer. For one, that gap is too wide for caulk—you won’t be happy with the result no matter how careful you are. Shoe molding is the way, and it’s flexible enough to ride the small ups and downs of the floor. If you want a super smooth look you can do a thin bead of caulk on the top on the shoe molding where it meets the floor trim, but NOT between the shoe molding and the floor because the wall/trim will expand/contract differently than the floor. Good luck!

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hunterbuilder t1_j2fmagy wrote

That's baseboard not skirting, and you should be caulking not grouting.

Taping & caulking a straight line is kind of a skill learned by experience. I can do it after years of practice, but I'm not sure how to tell you how to do it.

An alternative is, you could match the caulk color to the trim (white) and tape the floor.

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WelcomeTheLahar t1_j2fnaoh wrote

Fair warning on white caulk: most of it isn't intended to hold up as a finished surface. It tends to yellow with age (and maybe uv exposure?) So if you want it to look best you should paint it. This does of course depend on the product you use. The more silicone a caulk has the harder it is to get paint to stick to it. And there may be some white caulk that doesn't yellow. I can't tell you one though!

As a post lower down says a "shoe molding" aka quarter round is the right product for this job.

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DaRadioman t1_j2fr1d6 wrote

As others have said, anytime you transition from vertical to horizontal you want flexibility, not rigidity. Houses move a substantial amount, and different planes need to be allowed to without cracking.

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Signiference t1_j2fu47m wrote

Edit: yes, caulk is what you want. I saw the black lines and it looked like a big gap, but it’s clearly drawn on now that I zoom in.

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jeffprobst t1_j2fuhcq wrote

Agreed that silicone is the way to go for areas with moisture, but they can be more of a pain to clean up since they're not water soluble. Acrylic caulks can be cleaned up with water before they're dry so it's a bit more forgiving if you're not a caulking pro.

In theory, both should be good for areas with movement but I've heard silicone holds up a bit better over time.

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