Weak/broken plasterboard behind Tiles in bathroom

Submitted by RaidersGunz t3_ze806q in DIY

I was de-tiling the area around my bathtub (three walls) and the plasterboard aroud the large wall (Long side of the bath) was quite weak.

I was leaning on the plastrrboard while detiling it and my hand went through it and it cracked. Ive decided to cut a long rectagular part of the plasterboard and im going to replace it with a brand new plasterboard... so what I will be left with is the top half of the wall being plasterboard and the bottom half being tile backer board.

However, I am reading online that tile backer board is far superior for a bathroom.

The plan is, once the tile backer board/plasterboard is fitted in place I will eventually retile the bathroom walls with 600mmx300mm Porcelain tiles.

Would you recommend using plasterboard or using tile backer board?

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Comments

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koderdood t1_iz4wic8 wrote

I think cement board is always best for moisture resistance

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Adam2013 t1_iz4wkc9 wrote

It's much easier to demo tile if you just take it off with the backer board in strips.

Then just replace it all.

I know it sounds stupid but it's less mess and faster so you come out ahead in the long run.

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Viper_JB t1_iz59l3w wrote

Always a tile backer or waterproof/moisture resistant board in around baths and showers - it's always cheaper to do it right first time around then having to go back to put it right later. Had to redo my ensuite the plasterboard was falling to bits when I was taking off the tiles as moisture had gotten through.

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RaidersGunz OP t1_iz5i2ej wrote

So I bought Tile backboard, and im going to fit it into placr now. Im just goi g to do the entire thing, noa messing around

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Trigs12 t1_iz5ur7r wrote

Replying to RaidersGunz (#872,591)

Other thing to watch, if you are tiling the full wall, is whether the remaining plasterboard area can take the weight. Depends on the weight of your tile (especially if porcelain) and your adhesive, but you can work it out,may require a bit of googling though

Plasterboard is on the lower end of weight capacity if i remember right. Tile backerboards higher.

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davethompson413 t1_iz5xmps wrote

Cement board, and red guard waterproofing-- because tile and grout are not waterproof.

And it's possible that a lack of waterproofing is the reason the drywall was soft.

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simion3 t1_iz65zf0 wrote

Backer for sure. Something like Schluter, Prova, Wedi etc

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Masterandslave1003 t1_iz6jiia wrote

Always use cement board in a bathroom and real wood trim, no mdf.

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jsheridan47 t1_iz6s6wq wrote

After installing the new backer I would coat with a waterproofing agent. I always use Red Gard. It’s a rubber membrane you roll on like paint.

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skydiver1958 t1_iz74nku wrote

You rip it all out. Redo with tile backer/ cement board and use red guard or equivalent.

Bathroom renos are expensive for a reason. It costs money to do it right but right is the only way around a tub. Same with your shower controls. Do not cheap out. Most plumbers I know will refuse to do tub/ shower controls unless they are Moen. Not to say others aren't good but Moen is the least problematic if issues arise down the road.

Then there is the framing. Ripping it back to studs allows you to shim any wonky studs to make your backer nice and even which in turn will make your tile job easier and nicer. Don't do half a job or you will be sorry

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l397flake t1_iz77972 wrote

Sounds like there was a lack of ventilation and moisture, check out the studs for fungus and kill it before covering up

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