You want to tap into the load side of the switch and wire nut the blacks together and whites together.

Assuming your diagram is correct, your fixture is already wired incorrectly.

From the breaker panel, by convention, the black wire is Line, and the white wire is Neutral. The switch should be interrupting the Line, not the Neutral.

Thanks, I’ll check again, but I looked at this a long time when I made the diagram. If it’s wired wrong, might explain why I didn’t find anything online that matched it. I didn’t wire it, but, it works now to switch the fixture.

Can't see the pix, but you can run a 2-wire 14-gauge from the new outlet to the switch and just screw in the black wire to the load side of the switch - you can have two wires on a switch load. Some switches have the ability to receive a wire pushed in on the backside, sometimes you have to run a short wire from the switch nut to and bind 3 wires together - up to you.

Totally would work if the neutral is switched, but it's not safe. It means the fixture is always "hot". In the end, it's not likely to cause problems, but it's backwards.

Really this boils down to your switch. Does the white or black wire run to it? Unless it's a smart switch, it will only have one, not both.

As far as adding a on to that circuit, you can tap into whatever is down stream (ie a light) and run a new line (white/black/ground) from that light to your outlet.

You can do the same from the switch itself also, but that's more of a fauxpau

Your diagram is not correct. You probably should not be doing any wiring if you do not know what your doing. The switch connects to the hot wire, then connects to the light. All of the common wires are connected together.

The power does NOT go to the light then to the switch. That would be a code violation. You would never be able to disconnect the power to the light.

You cannot add a second switched outlet to a wire that is already on a switch. Then both switches would have to be on for the light to work. The only exceptions would be a three way or four way switch.

You clearly do not understand wiring and should not be messing with electricity.

>The power does NOT go to the light then to the switch. That would be a code violation. You would never be able to disconnect the power to the light.

Actually you can start with line power at the fixture. And be code compliant
At fixture's box:
Line1 black -> black of 14/3
Neutral white -> white of 14/3
Ground -> ground of 14/3

This 14/3 goes to switch box
Ground the switch, connect black and red to each leg of switch
Cap the neutral if not needed (ie: illuminated switch)

Back at fixture box, connect RED, WHITE, and GROUND to light fixture

pretty sure you drew your diagram wrong so not even addressing that diagram.

if someone called me on the phone and asked, I'd say "wire the outlet to the white, black, and neutral of the light fixture"15A circuit you will have 14/2 or 12/2 wire, you must use the same gauge at what's currently used20A circuit will have 12/2 wire

if by any chance any of the wire has a red, it's 12/3 or 14/3 so the above wouldn't be correct. Won't elaborate on that since you haven't mentioned red wire.

That is correct, but with the cost of wire, 14/3 is avoided.

Thanks - see the new pics in the link in the edited post. Definitely source -> fixture -> switch now (I didn’t wire this).