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dilligaf4lyfe t1_j29vu65 wrote

Wasn't trying to insult you, when you said you weren't a journeyman I just thought you might be an apprentice.

> Can that circuit handle the current as it is? It's close, but it falls under 80% with nothing else drawing current under the written load requirements.

Never said they shouldn't pull a dedicated circuit, they absolutely should.

>It seems like you have a lot to learn about how a normal person can screw up electrical shit, especially with joining wires. Solid conductors require a lot of surface area for the splice to have less resistance than the conductor. So if they are in the US they probably shouldn't be using twist connectors unless they have seen some burnt and melted so they can see how not to use them. A single run will prevent the possibility of messing up a join. Safety always.

I've seen plenty of failed splices. And in my opinion, if you can't aplice properly, you shouldn't be doing electrical work. But you're taking the harm reduction approach, and that's fine too. It just reads as odd advice on my end.

>10 milliamps is enough to make muscles uncontrollable. 1 amp can easily start a fire. 13 amps is actually a lot of current. You are probably used to dealing with 3 phase panels so it's not a big deal. When Harry the homeowner starts getting the idea about putting 20 amps in a wall, it's best for them to have it in their head that it's a sizable amount, because it is. Safety always.

My point was that 13A is boilerplate, basic electrical work, and if they can't handle that then this is outside of their capabilities.

>At the very beginning I stated that I wasn't a journeyman, which if you were worth your salt, you would have put that bit together. So before you start attacking my experience with people who mess up projects and my intelligence, maybe you should have first checked to see if electrical boxes have current ratings... Because they do. Don't be pedantic to bring me down, just to feel smart, or appear more helpful. You should be worried about them. I'm not the one you should be working on. Keep your eyes on the danger. Safety always.

Wasn't trying to insult your intelligence. Apparently boxes have current ratings in the UK, I don't know if that's where you are. But in the US, boxes absolutely do not have current ratings. Here's a link to a cutsheet with common residential boxes. Ampacity isn't mentioned once, because box volume is how you keep a box from overheating, not branch circuit ampacity.

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RudeMutant t1_j2a6hue wrote

I used a newfangled calculator, as you didn't directly instruct me to do, and I can apparently run, splice, and dead short an embarrassingly irresponsible amount of current through a $1 plastic box. I just looked up some boxes, outside of your link, and I concede that the rating is no longer applied? WTF. I'm getting old, cranky, and I'm wondering who bribed who... Because back in my day one would get their lunch break disappeared if a run capacity was more than what was LITERALLY on the label for the box (every one had better have been 20 amps per gang or your ass was driving back to the store). What written word is keeping some nutbag from pulling 100 amps through a single gang box? That terrifies me. The only rating I found, in amps, was for a junction box in the UK (pedantically not in Europe), but that isn't for the enclosure it is for the screw terminals that are basically molded in.

At this point it's safe to say that I'm scared for the children, and I'm a cranky old man.

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dilligaf4lyfe t1_j2ar8ku wrote

Your calculator is wrong. Max you can bring into a single gang box with a device is 8awg, 40 amps. Max you can splice and continue through is 10Awg, with no device. Also, I said UK, not Europe.

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