Submitted by DappleDoxies t3_zwbcwu in DIY
Frosty-Start-4559 t1_j1u9q38 wrote
Shut water off. Cut the tape with a utility knife. Use two wrenches to remove the valve, one to hold the valve, the other to loosen the nut on both ends of the valve. It will be tight. Two wrenches are required to keep from twisting the pipe. After you remove the valve, clean the pipe with a piece of Emory cloth, then inspect. There may be a little copper ring over the pipe, it is part of the compression fitting on the supply end. If damaged, it looks like there is room to cut about 3/4” of the pipe off with a tubing cutter. Install new valve with compression fitting. Tighten well and test by turning water back on, slowly. You can do this!
clambo14 t1_j1uem6y wrote
>shut the water off to the house
To clarify.
geek66 t1_j1unz8l wrote
To add, drain the system from a lower location, like a hose bib, or downstairs sink.
coolhandluke45 t1_j1ut4ew wrote
It's probably the fill valve in the toilet not the shutoff. You won't be wasting your time replacing the shutoff though. But if it's not actively leaking I'd 100% start with the fill valve first.
Source: 14 year journeyman plumber.
Cindexxx t1_j1xjh94 wrote
Source: Google noob of 3 years.
The shutoff leak and fill valve leak should be obvious. If it's not, wtf lol. It should be.
CowboyStiefel t1_j1y7tgr wrote
Dunning-Kruger effect is out in full force I see
subpoenaThis t1_j1usbny wrote
Buy all the parts you might use first. If possible at least two ways of doing it.
You don’t want to discover that you can’t get parts and you can’t put the old one back on so you have no water in your house.
Also quarter turn for the win.
Slokunshialgo t1_j1zwznl wrote
Had this recently when replacing one of these valves. Despite cleaning it, the pipe had a deformation that stopped the ring from crimping properly, and lead to a slight leak. I didn't have another ring to try again further back, and all the stores were closed.
Guess who now has a compression shutoff soldered onto their toilet supply.
Blackoutsmackout t1_j1ufmeq wrote
What are the chances of this pipe is corroded beyond what is visible?
Tu_mama_me_ama_mucho t1_j1ul16k wrote
99%
Blackoutsmackout t1_j1v2w7y wrote
So reddits best advice offers no solution if things go wrong.
GoodGoodGoody t1_j1v4nie wrote
So buck up and offer it yourself. (Hint, you feed new copper or Pex to the location after pulling out the old. No biggie.).
Stop being a whiny complainer.
Blackoutsmackout t1_j1w10w1 wrote
you make it sound pretty easy
ElGuapo315 t1_j1wqpfh wrote
Just hold the torch on the copper until the flame starts to turn green... Easy lol.
GoodGoodGoody t1_j1w2w9d wrote
It is and you make you sound not too bright.
Either ask a question here or answer it but don’t whine. There are whole other reddit subs for that nonsense.
Blackoutsmackout t1_j1wuxdx wrote
OP not gonna update whats behind that repair tape so there is no point to this thread
Godmadius t1_j1ulbwr wrote
It's not really corrosion so much as mineral buildup from the water, so if the pipe is original to the house the chances are pretty high that its blocked up pretty good. I'm not sure if there is a roto-rooter type action you can do to clear that up, or if you just have to replace all the pipes over time.
motoduki t1_j1usnva wrote
You can also get a tool for pulling the compression ring off without cutting the pipe, assuming the pipe is still in good condition.
pattyG80 t1_j1xpv3f wrote
After shutting the water off to the house, run the water in a basement sink or as low as you can get to drain your pipes. Sometimes, there's a valve right next to the main cutoff that allows you to drain the system. Otherwise, when you disconnect the toilet valve, you'll get wet.
Yummy-Beetle-Juice t1_j1xsdho wrote
Great advice! One thing to add, it appears to be a 3/8" hose connection to the valve.
It also might be a fill valve issue in the tank. If it only fills partially up, have you adjusted the float in the tank?
Frosty-Start-4559 t1_j1xuhea wrote
Agree, I had assumed the fill valve had been ruled out already.
PostingSomeToast t1_j1vyw3r wrote
I'm trying to see that as a compression valve.....lol Usually I see a few threads under the nut.
It's got to be tightened absolutely to the top of the threads, so maybe the copper isn't pushed through the brass ferrule? That could be causing the leak.
It almost looks like it has a cpvc cconnector on the bottom of the nut.
Frosty-Start-4559 t1_j1w0yxa wrote
Yep, lots of possibilities there.
just-kath t1_j1wtq7q wrote
Great answer!!!
Viewing a single comment thread. View all comments