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Comments
morphballganon t1_iynlzmj wrote
Cheap way would be to mount a piece of wood on the bricks, paint it to look like the bricks, then mount the gate hinge on that.
CLIMBFIFAMobile t1_iynmrbx wrote
I am not sure if you are in the US or where in the US, but $14k is very decent. Not only they have to build a new brick column, foundation and supports, the have to make sure to match your fence perfectly or it wont work. Maybe try to get other quotes but be careful on scope of work.
I would try with the foam companies but how are they going to match it to level and work with the electric gate? it will be very tricky.
Fancy things have fancy prices... good luck bro.
Onetap1 t1_iynofbs wrote
The weight of the gate (more relevant, the bending moment exerted by the gate) is overturning the column.
Maybe fix a wheel to the end of the gate and install a quadrant track for it to run on. No more weight that's overturning the column, the weight is supported by the wheel.
Saint3Love t1_iynpe3l wrote
foundation and concrete leveling people are your friend here. I wouldnt DIY a 1/2 ton column of stone and concrete
[deleted] t1_iynpx8k wrote
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tsully93 t1_iynqve6 wrote
It’s leaning away from the gate…that’s definitely not the cause. And the weight of that gate is inconsequential to the brick column.
JCPRuckus t1_iyntb9q wrote
Maybe he's thinking it's one of those anti-grav gates?
missionbeach t1_iynvsb7 wrote
Not the worst idea, though I'd paint it black to make it look like part of the framing for the gate.
monkee67 t1_iynw0t5 wrote
can you give us a close up of the hinges and how far the pillar is out of plumb. (using a 4 foot long or longer level, measure the distance from wall at the top of the level when held plumb). that will help in giving you some recommendations.
i am assuming its a steel gate. whats the length
comish4lif t1_iynw2gg wrote
How heavy is the gate? Is it 1 gate or 2? Is it the weight of the gate pulling the pillar?
missionbeach t1_iynw4xk wrote
My friend had some driveway sections leveled, and it turned out great. This would be a lot heavier, but I'm sure the experts know what they're doing.
sdfree0172 t1_iynxc39 wrote
Well, it probably isn’t a real good idea to DIY, but if I were to give it a go, I’d rent a mini-backhoe (lots of companies in the US rent these, not sure where you’re from). I’d dig down and around the footing, then I’d use the backhoe to push the column into position to hold it there while filling the hole with additional concrete. Probably $700 or so and two days effort. But, again, not sure I’d try this. Lots to go wrong.
[deleted] t1_iynxz77 wrote
Mud jacking is the term
MrSnowden t1_iynystk wrote
Well I assume that the hill is subsiding and slowly taking the column with it. I am sure the weight doesn’t help. I’d sort out the hill first in terms of drainage and perhaps a retaining wall. That is all pretty DIY. I think the right answer for righting the column is the folks that inject mud underneath. That will be pricey. If you are able to stabilize the hill and the column isn’t so bad as it is now, there may be less drastic things you could do to level the gate and or slightly right the column.
Jakeinspace t1_iyo3rht wrote
This is probably your cheapest option OP. Just bear in mind that as the column continues to sink, the angle between the gatepost and the bricks will get more and more obvious.
bjornbamse t1_iyo41fc wrote
Or actually make it from metal and make it adjustable.
cloistered_around t1_iyo5d57 wrote
I'd also assume this is a drainage issue from OP's pic--those bricks don't exactly look tattered and torn, so if the column is leaning it was likely a problem with the soil around it. Not the bricks themselves.
Fix the drainage and foundation first.
Decker1138 t1_iyo5f5m wrote
This. It's leaning for a reason, fix that first or you'll be back here sooner next time.
monkee67 t1_iyo62h1 wrote
>Lots to go wrong.
lol
shaking_the_trees t1_iyo6p0w wrote
What about some self fabricated spacers to put on the top hinge in between the brick.
This may potentially buy you some more time (hopefully years).
The spacer will get you back into a normal gate adjustment range.
monkee67 t1_iyo6p32 wrote
that's what i was going to recommend. but the same thing could be achieved by swapping out the top hinge with one that had more adjustment on it, if its not to far out of plumb. this would be only a temporary fix if the underlying issues of why the pillar is subsiding are not addressed, but it would by time to sock away the $$$$ to fix it all properly
darkfred t1_iyo6ypr wrote
So, i wouldn't fix this, it's too much effort and it will most likely stop subsiding, get a sliding bracket made for the gate to attach to so you can adjust it further.
If I did want to fix it, on the assumption that it's got a weak, or very shallow foundation, i'd try lifting it with an excavator or engine lift, then pour a new foundation and mortar it back down. This might not be possible, but i'd give it a shot in an afternoon before calling the sidewalk leveling guys.
monkee67 t1_iyo73e8 wrote
that's a good temporary fix. but if the underlying reason for the tilt isn't resolved it will keep on creeping over
firstorbit t1_iyo7cyn wrote
Take the gate off before you do this.
BLT_Special t1_iyo8zyd wrote
Personally I'd do this until the brick column needed to be removed and then just redo it from scratch. Easier to save up and wait until then instead of shelling out a bunch of money now.
missionbeach t1_iyo94vh wrote
Even better.
ThoraciusAppotite t1_iyo96de wrote
Is it just leaning or is it also moving further away?
Why do you think it's moving? Whatever fix you implement it's only going to be temporary unless you also address the root cause.
There are lots of YouTube videos showing how to lift foundations and stuff like that. Seen a bunch where people use ordinary hydraulic jacks.
monkee67 t1_iyo9esa wrote
it would be the smart move. at the same time if you can also solve the underlying reason for the slump the time frame for the big fix gets even longer
Tack122 t1_iyoaxk4 wrote
I had this done on a 20 ft freestanding brick wall.
They had 4 dudes dig three holes along the length of the side it was leaning toward, they dug beneath it a bit and started lifting it with bottle jacks. Once they got it where it needed to be they supported it with concrete cylinders, and excavated a large cavity to fill with concrete. They charged me 4k and were done in a day, so great deal for them, but I wasn't about to DIY that.
So the issue I think I see with your plan to push with a back hoe is you can't really apply force to the top of the column because the brick work will not work in tension, so you'd be in the state of having to lift it from beneath with the back hoe.
It could work but I feel like jacks would be more appropriate. Less error prone, you could easily fuck things up with a mistake on the back hoe.
Having seen it done on a 20 ft wall, I'd feel sorta comfortable doing it on a column. Seems less risky.
rivalarrival t1_iyoc3rq wrote
I'd probably try digging some deep holes on the uphill side with a post hole digger, and just laying a paver or a flagstone over them. With some luck, frost heave will shove it back into place after a few freeze/thaw cycles.
No clue if it would actually work, of course.
poopgrouper t1_iyoc58p wrote
I bet if you braced the column with a bunch of 4x4's, you could push on it with the excavator to straighten it up. The 4x4's would help spread the the load over the height of the column.
Then again, you might just collapse the whole thing, since I'd bet that things hollow. But then OP could do a follow up question about DIY brick laying.
Onetap1 t1_iyod1d9 wrote
>It’s leaning away from the gate…
So maybe you should have said that.
Fresh613 t1_iyodwb7 wrote
My buddies mom is known for that.
marvelous_smokes t1_iyoebxo wrote
Use the backhoe to demolish existing and start from scratch.
Timmmah t1_iyof028 wrote
Is that her stage name or the act ?
southsideson t1_iyogp7g wrote
That was my thought, to do it "riight" could be a pretty expensive job. Depending on the speed of degradation, a 4 hour project that costs, $50 might fix it for 30 years until its noticeable again.
djtibbs t1_iyoh0cs wrote
barto5 t1_iyoh0zl wrote
Mudjacking is a term. It’s not the right term for this though.
What op described is known as PolyFoam injection.
It accomplishes the same thing as mudjacking but it’s a completely different process.
barto5 t1_iyohl3f wrote
Install 2 steel piers beneath the footing to lift and stabilize it.
Depending on where you are located, it should cost between $2 and $4 thousand dollars.
It’s not a diy fix but it works.
And don’t believe the guy that said the whole hill is subsiding. That’s possible, but it’s far more likely to simply be settlement.
Read on line reviews and hire the right company. A good foundation repair contractor should be able to do this in a day.
BootlegFC t1_iyohqdc wrote
From the picture and your description it appears the issue has nothing to do with the brick work. You'd have to get out there with a shovel to check but I'm betting that the foundation is insufficiently deep. Are you certain the foundation is a few feet thick? Even if it is it likely requires more depth and possibly lateral support to counter soil erosion. There are ways to brace and reinforce the column without tearing it down, digging down and starting from scratch but I wouldn't recommend it for a DIY project as a mistake could cause the column to topple with a potential for severe injury or death for anyone caught underneath. Best to get a professional who has the expertise and equipment to do the job right.
barto5 t1_iyoht7n wrote
Keep in mind that even IF this works, you’ve just added more weight to something that is already settling.
It would be a temporary fix.
davidmlewisjr t1_iyoi0fa wrote
There are foundation repair crews that can inject grout beneath the column… Ram-Jack and others are not cheap but they can provide solutions and warranties.
Ocronus t1_iyoi5cw wrote
Pifff, that's to much work.. Just be my neighbor. Put the bumper of your 4x4 up to it and give a little gas. Nothing will go wrong! /s
barto5 t1_iyoiamk wrote
The weight is less of an issue than the area.
It’s actually much easier to control the lift on a large slab, say 12’ x 12’ than it is on the footing of a column which is probably no more than 3’x3’
BredditAndFryIt t1_iyoif77 wrote
A somewhat crude fix that you may not love the aesthetic of but will stop it from happening would be to anchor the column off with a guy wire and turnbuckle.
For a bit more robust solution you could dig a little concrete foundation off to the right side and set an anchor bolt in then with rotary hammer and wedge anchor secure another tie off at the top side of the column, run some cable between them and add a turnbuckle to adjust it. If you don't want to pour concrete you could drive a metal t post in deep at an angle.
barto5 t1_iyoig2q wrote
There’s no reason to think the hill is subsiding. It’s more likely the column itself is just settling.
RedshiftOnPandy t1_iyoisrs wrote
Depends on what the base, I would hope it's concrete. If its concrete, dig the side that's leaning and the opposite side. You can try to use big pry bar to lift it and fill under it. It's likely too heavy for that. So you'll need an excavator or the forks of a skid steer.
barto5 t1_iyoiyiz wrote
> and it will most likely stop subsiding
What are you basing this prediction on?
From op’s post we know the column settled. He adjusted the hinge to compensate, and now it’s settled even further.
What gives you any reason to think it’s just going to stop moving on it’s own?
barto5 t1_iyoj8oq wrote
Or maybe you should have looked at the picture before offering advice.
Onetap1 t1_iyok30o wrote
Better idea, maybe don't offer free advice to ill-mannered dullards.
Have you thought of anything that wopuld explain it leaning away from the gate yet? It's not good.
ccooffee t1_iyokaq5 wrote
Or leave it on and make sure someone records the whole thing to post here later.
Tack122 t1_iyokt1v wrote
It could be settling, or it could be rolling over a firmer settled area. Digging a concrete bell bottom shape beneath it and filling it with concrete is a common way to increase the surface area of soil that the object is bearing on.
ScratchNSniffGIF t1_iyoktsc wrote
Nothing lasts forever. Every fix is 'temporary'
barto5 t1_iyol5j8 wrote
Yes, I have.
The most likely explanation is unstable soils. Clay based soils shrink and swell with every wet / dry cycle. This sort of cyclical movement often leads to settlement.
And the location of the column in relationship to the surrounding soil has far more to do with how the column moves than the gate does.
And I’m not your average ordinary dullard. I’m a foundation repair professional with over 15 years in the business.
What are your credentials to support your ill founded opinion?
barto5 t1_iyolhsd wrote
It is. But bell bottom piers are not suitable for all applications and the amount of excavation required for a bell bottom pier might very well undermine the column you’re trying to stabilize.
palmej2 t1_iyolntt wrote
I'd go with a cementitious grout over the "foam", but point out that while this will correct the lean temporarily, it will not address the problem of subgrade shifting. I'd also recommend something to address that, possibly driving in a corrugated steel sheet (forget the term, but essentially similar to a coffer dam), or some sort of retaining wall type feature
barto5 t1_iyolquh wrote
Well, temporary is relative. A good foundation repair company will make this repair and back it with a lifetime warranty.
So in the sense that life is temporary you’re right.
Tack122 t1_iyomc2c wrote
Yeah I could see that. Dude might need a retaining wall. Hard to say without understanding the soil around there.
I'm most familiar and by default think about the soil around home, thick Houston black gumbo. Clayey and dense, sticks to everything and holds stuff pretty well in general. Ideal type A example imo.
Type B or C yeah I could see that being iffy. I'd try drilling in post holes and filling them and connecting it to the footing or something I guess.
Onetap1 t1_iyomj6c wrote
> Clay based soils shrink and swell
Which would cause subsidence cracking in a wall, due to unequal movement; under pin & make good etc..
it's not a wall; think on.
>What are your credentials to support your ill founded opinion?
I retired from the free advice business and will offer no further opinions. I'm sure you'll get there eventually.
darkfred t1_iyoodp4 wrote
> What are you basing this prediction on?
The fact that most foundation movement is caused by ground compaction, sliding or buckling, and outside of some very special circumstances, like building on a wet clay riverbed, the ground does not simply suck things down into it. The most likely reason it moved is that the original builder didn't compact the base enough, cause it's just a gate. Contractors rarely properly compact for gates, garden walls and fences.
But, even if it did, wouldn't you take a 14,000:20 bet on the $20 bracket side? I'd take that bet even if it was built in a swamp.
Hazardous6123 t1_iyoozsp wrote
Call in the Burns slant drilling company, drill from across the way down about 1000 ft to directly under the post, pump in a few yards of concrete to correct the slant. Simple.
[deleted] t1_iyopk9t wrote
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Nimrod6979 t1_iyoq8b7 wrote
Hard to tell from this picture but to me column looks plumb and coincides with wooden fence post also. Gate looks to be sagging down towards ground ..have you ever put a level on the column to check for plumb ? If so I apologize I’m just going by what I see…..
foodfood321 t1_iyoqied wrote
>because it wouldn't meet their minimums
Find out what their minimum is and ask them if they would do a smaller job for their minimum cost, if that is reasonable to you, maybe
[deleted] t1_iyoren6 wrote
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Gtp4life t1_iyorts8 wrote
Honestly yeah, breaking it and starting over to begin with would probably be easier since it’s the likely outcome either way trying to DIY this as a beginner.
1bighack t1_iyotg7h wrote
I would start by digging down level with the bottom of the footing on the down hill side, an area big enough to work. Then I would wrap the down hill side of the column and the two sides next to it with osb. 2x4s reinforcing the corners. Rig a strong ratchet strap from around 2/3s up on the leaning column to the base of the other column with enough tension to hold leaning column in place. Brace the column with a couple of 2x4s from above the ratchet straps to strong stakes in the ground on the down hill side. Space the stakes around twice the width of the column apart and around 8 plus fleet from the column. Dig or drill a hole on the down hill side centered on the footing about a third of the width of the footing and three to four feet deep. Fill hole with fast setting concrete. It needs to be under the footing enough to be able to use a jack between it and the footing. If the footing is round on the bottom you will need to cut a inverted shelf for a jack point. Next day use a bottle jack to level column and Re-Tension the ratchet straps and adjust the 2x4s. Dig a hole on each side of the previous one and fill with concrete to the bottom of the footing. Let set, remove the jack and fill that space with concrete
SatanLifeProTips t1_iyoufxa wrote
I’d just dig a 12”x12” or larger trench around that thing, add some rebar or at least wire mesh and just pour in concrete. Maybe go 18-24”on the side away from the gate if the earth is a bit soft, it will act as a counterweight.
When it’s dug out you may be able to pull it straight. Get a nice chain hoist or some 10,000lb ratchet straps and give it a anchor point 15-20’ away, pull the top back straight.
If you get it stable but not perfectly level, you can always hire a welder to fix the hinge one last time.
No way that fix is gonna cost you $14k.
hickorydickoryshaft t1_iyov0u5 wrote
Find someone who lifts concrete, such as driveways and such, they’ll know
UcfKnighter t1_iyowb1w wrote
This is beautiful
Onewarmguy t1_iyowolc wrote
That's an understatement. Either the brick or the footing is being eccentrically loaded by the gate. The whole things gotta come out.
Prostock26 t1_iyox5rt wrote
Why wouldn't it be leaning the other way then? Looks to me it's leaning away from the gate
Noonien OP t1_iyoysil wrote
I'm debating between this, and digging down and trying to bottle jack up the base. Either way I think I'll have to add more/deeper concrete to the footing to prevent it from continuing to lean.
Noonien OP t1_iyoyurn wrote
[deleted] t1_iyozr6b wrote
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IronRT t1_iyp045w wrote
I’d do this if i were to give it a go.
XchrisZ t1_iyp0kor wrote
Well the thing is leaning away from the gate. That gate would actually assist in this situation.
berrbolk t1_iyp0nhp wrote
IMO, You'd better spend your money knocking that all down and properly building a new pier on a solid footer.
That's not a professional masonry job, so all you'd be doing is spending your money fixing someone else's DIY project. It likely doesn't have a proper footer or even one to begin with, the bond is off and the joints are a mess. It may be hollow too, and it shouldn't be.
If you have a trade school nearby with a masonry program, that'd be an approach to have it rebuilt with some skill and not at the full blast professional mason price.
OffbeatDrizzle t1_iyp2cvh wrote
He's basically creating his own leaning tower of Pisa!
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Noonien OP t1_iyp2ltp wrote
Just added some additional photos that include this. The top is about 2 inches out of plumb.
SpiderMcLurk t1_iyp2pua wrote
There’s probably no starter bars holding the column down to the footing and you’ll just push the bottom row of bricks off its foundation. Or it will seperate at a row of bricks.
Ninjan8 t1_iyp2qxx wrote
He doesn't even have to do that. The top hinge hook is a threaded rod with a 90 angle. Just replace it with a longer threaded rod. Take measurements and Google threaded hinge pin.
SpiderMcLurk t1_iyp338q wrote
Best answer
monkee67 t1_iyp59ka wrote
his first mistake was involving a child
monkee67 t1_iyp5k7m wrote
XP_3 t1_iyp9l0p wrote
If you have to ask you can't afford it.
barto5 t1_iypy6mf wrote
Glad to see you admit you’re talking out of your ass.
Retirement is probably overdue for you.
TheUnweeber t1_iyqt79q wrote
Dig and bottle jack, then push it a tad too far the other way (but still within the realm of what works for your gate). Then brace low with 4x4s, remove bottle jack and make sure it has stopped settling before you pour the concrete. Maybe throw some rebar in there, it's cheap.
Mortar and concrete are fine for compression, but the makers may only have put rebar in the far side of that (if any). That means pushing on it might cause it to separate. That's why you should dig and bottle jack.
Onetap1 t1_iyr0mwj wrote
>Glad to see you admit
I seem to have missed that bit.
Shrinkable clay sub-soil may be the phrase you're struggling to recall, Mr foundation repair professional. It's probably not the problem. You should look up the word 'Professional' in a dictionary; it doesn't mean what you seem to think in this context.
Bye.
barto5 t1_iyr6zul wrote
Dude, just take the L.
You’ve been wrong. You are wrong. And you will always be wrong.
Onetap1 t1_iyrw0gh wrote
The 15 year-old internet foundation expert says I'm wrong, so it must be true.
Bye.
barto5 t1_iyspw6g wrote
I’m actually in the business.
You’re in the business of spouting uninformed opinion.
Keep trying though. You might accidentally say something smart. (Hasn’t happened yet, but I guess anything is possible).
Onetap1 t1_iysq2e7 wrote
OK. Bye.
barto5 t1_iysq7ep wrote
Smartest thing you’ve said yet.
notapunk t1_iynl8y5 wrote
Wait a couple hundred years and market it as a tourist attraction