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Jstepson t1_j28zil8 wrote

You can use a thing called backer rod make just for prefilling large gaps prior to caulking they come in different thicknesses and are shoved into gap prior to caulking, gives caulking something to hold onto and if this is a wet area 100% silicone needs to be used. When applying silicone put blue painters tape at the edges of where you want silicone to stop,install silicone then Cann lick finger and wipe one side to other to make sure it's in good. Let set an hour and peel blue tape off should be nice neat line of caulk.Wait at least 12 hours then use shower without fear of water damage.

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Bayou_vg t1_j2akuzd wrote

Backer rod is the answer.

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SuspiciousChicken t1_j2c9icx wrote

Yes, and in addition to creating a joint that is attached on only 2 sides and can flex properly, it will also solve OP's problem of too much sealant oozing out while drying.

By using less sealant, properly adhered with a backer rod, all of it will perform better.

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firstLOL t1_j2b6rkh wrote

You'll get better adhesion to the shower floor and tile if, instead of using a finger, you use a profiling tool (ideally an angled one, not a concave curve that you'd get with the finger).

Concave silicone in areas that get a lot of water (like showers) mean the part that is doing most of the 'work' to keep water in the shower (where the top and bottom edges of the silicone meet their respective surfaces) is often very thin. A suitable straight angle avoids this issue.

One other good thing to do is wipe the area thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol before applying the silicone (giving enough time for it to effervesce evaporate away). Silicone hates soap residues, grit, and especially grease (another reason not to use a finger!), and alcohol is great at getting rid of all three.

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damarius t1_j2baa6z wrote

>effervesce

I think you mean evaporate. Isopropyl alcohol doesn't have bubbles. Yes, nitpicky grammar nazi-ish I know. That's how I roll.

Edit: I should have added that this sounds like a sound approach to resolving the problem but I'm not a professional.

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firstLOL t1_j2cvdts wrote

Thanks, grammar angel on my shoulder! You are correct, though effervesce is a much more fun word to say.

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climbtigerfrog OP t1_j2bp72k wrote

Thanks!

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Kleenexexpress t1_j2cb3i5 wrote

I noticed our friend here said to wait an hour before pulling your tape. Not to nitpick but I was taught to pull your tape immediately after your final swipe. But what do I know, I don’t even tape when I do these types of caulk jobs.

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Bldaz t1_j2dohq5 wrote

Silicone will start drying before you finish applying, tape will pull it off more the longer you wait. I don’t use tape My choice 1 -That needs to be cleared out first. 2-You can use a silicone grout that matches the existing grout or Try Amp caulking very little sag. Just a simple reminder there’s a 1/4-1/2 “ lip extending upward on that tub you can’t see. Curious if that sub floor is sagging

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caramelcooler t1_j2b4oyc wrote

One small note, sealant needs an hourglass sort of shape to expand and contract at the thinner middle part, with the wider top/bottom having more contact with the surfaces. So even using a backer rod when it’s not really “needed” for shallower joints between parallel surfaces can still help, if there’s room.

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DoctorKynes t1_j2b5jvb wrote

Do backer rods work for baseboard gaps? Was planning on shoe molding throughout the house but between cutting and painting it would become quite a project.

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RidersPainfulTruth t1_j2b6r8n wrote

You’re better off with quarter round. Caulking that much linear footage sucks compared to chopping shoe molding with a miter saw

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Tack122 t1_j2b7r2o wrote

Shoe always looks better than quarter round imo.

Quarter round also takes up an annoying amount of space when you want to sit furniture flush against a wall.

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akmacmac t1_j2bma6i wrote

I’ve always heard to never caulk the baseboard (or shoe molding) to the floor. Something about too much movement between these surfaces causing caulking to crack/separate). (Except, I think, in bathrooms, for purposes of keeping water on the floor from getting underneath). The alternative to shoe molding would be to pull the baseboards and scribe them to the floor (basically trace the contour of the floor and shave off the bottom edge so it sits tight against the floor). Also agree shoe molding looks much better than quarter round.

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ineedhelpbad9 t1_j2c4b08 wrote

I thought that was only for floating floors that aren't attached to the subfloor.

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jmm166 t1_j2bmf0j wrote

Gloves. Wet your GLOVED finger. It’s hard to really get off skin.

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[deleted] t1_j2a2ff3 wrote

[deleted]

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slashfromgunsnroses t1_j2agavk wrote

Silicone is pretty strong and a larger gap actually allows it to absord more movement. With the backer rod it will sit just nicely.

Grout is water permeable and will actually allow water to leak behind causing damage.

Silicone all the way.

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md9918 t1_j2b34m7 wrote

I've done this before. The grout will crack because it's brittle and the shower pan and walls expand and contract at different rates depending on temp and humidity. You need something stretchy like silicone for any transition in surface, even inside corners of the same kind of surface.

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corylol t1_j2b42na wrote

Absolutely should NOT be grouted. Never grout a change of plane like this.

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