One would think such a device would be waterproof regardless.

Exactly.

Not sure if marble or mold on the wall. Moldble? Morlb?

There is stress on that hose, opt for a longer one as this one will fail.

>It's excess grout on the wall

Good idea

Okay, thank you!

Toilet seat is going to cause problems too.

only if you’re always whacking your elbow on it.

Should be fine - just get a longer hose.

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Damn how did I miss that :(

There’s a cleaner called Mold Armor & it will remove it. It comes in a lime green plastic bottle.

I’m not wise to these things but would a longer hose reduce pressure? Sort of like the longer you make a straw the harder you need to suck to get liquid through?

The difference is minimal

What, you don’t have LEGO legs?

Mold armor removes grout?

No

It does If you apply it using steel wool. /sarcastic …don’t do that.

It won't make a meaningful difference. The flow restrictor in the showerhead is going to do much more than a longer hose ever will.

most houses have many feet of pipe moving that water to the hose, and an extra 2 won't make any difference, but early failure of the hose connection due to stress will cause a problem.

Having been blessed with only a short straw I have never heard of your complaint before.

^ That’s what she said ^

Probably height requirements for installation. Disabled use etc? It is waterproof and just needs a longer hose.

I’m nervous about that ceiling. That curve is going to eat non-stop Moisture. First the Steam going up during your shower, then the condensation going back down. How do you mitigate that? I see a light fixture but no fan. Seems like it needs an over the top level of prevention. (Source: none, I don’t know what I am talking about but it seems legit)

Also, your work looks awesome!

Thanks! A Velux window is going in soon and the roof has to be better water proofed - good spot. There is an extractor just out of shot :)

So why are you suggesting it? When he clearly said it was grout?

AirBnB vibes

I have a well and had abysmal pressure in my shower head despite the system sitting at 60psi. Removed the restrictor and it was a game changer. I felt a bit bad but the excess water goes into the leach bed anyways so..

I've removed them before too. It was a huge improvement, but it also drained the water heater very quickly. I probably should have changed the showerhead instead, but it was a rental and I didn't have much money at the time.

The shower being so low would drive me crazy. It’s at such an awkward height. You’ll constantly be knocking it with your elbow. Did they give a reason for why they put it there?

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We have a 50 gallon and there are only two of us so I think we will be okay. I'd go tankless but the water heater was just replaced prior to us buying the house so it doesn't seem like a good investment atm.

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I guess so. Often times ease ruins function- this would be one for me.

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Oh yeah that is one of those reverse sitting seats for lego humans.

That’s what she said

Oh no I fully understand that, I’m just curious as to the effect of longer hoses is all :)

Yeah that makes sense. I’ve never had an issue with straws before I just remember seeing a physics video about it (probably veritsaium) and was just curious

Shower power box? WTF is that?

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Also for those with lactose intolerance. Sit in reverse and enjoy that bowl of cereal you desperately need

LMFAO!!!

I think it's installed at the height where the nozzle could rest on the ground to actually reduce stress on the hose. they just need a longer hose

An electric shower pump for houses with lower pressure.

Edit: No it's not, see comment by /u/RodneyRabbit

Or anything else besides an elbow 😇

Even along the top of the drywall / drywall along the ceiling seam above where the toilet and sink are? Why is it black on 2 white surfaces?

I guess it's grout all over the wall behind where the mirror was , and along the ceiling where the paint is peeling and obviously water damaged too then?

The tile might have black grout on it, but thats not all just grout.

Power shower?

One would be incorrect. Many of that style are splash proof but water can get in if sprayed directly, which looks likely in this case. Best to check manufacturers recommendations regarding the install.

It's a UK thing. The Brits, despite being an ancient civilization that has survived this long in a modern world, have not even remotely figured out indoor plumbing. You should see their sink faucets!

Ouch

I mean I’m not gonna buy something goes IN THE SHOWER if it’s not totally waterproof. That would simply be stupid, steam and humidity will get in eventually even if water doesn’t

The showers I used in the UK always had this device on the same wall as the shower head and high up. Because that wall gets the least wet.

I've never seen them where you put yours.

As a contractor I know what grout is & what mold is

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Look at the ceiling above the toilet & sink. There’s no tile, drywall meets drywall. Why would there be grout or grout lines up there ?

The issue isn’t the length of the straw, that friction is negligible (unless the straw was extremely thin). The issue with a longer straw is the difference in elevation at the point of suction compared to the elevation of the liquid. If you have a silly straw you need much less (negative) pressure than if that same straw was straightened out.

Or kids. Or shorter people.

This reminds me of Ireland. I’d give it a go, they had those hung all over the place in the BnB’s I stayed in when I visit friends.

My favorite was Cavan where I literallly had to hunch over (I’m not a tall lad) to get my hair wet because of the roof angle.

If there’s no regulation on it, probably fine. Add a linger house and call it a day.

Go with a moisture resistance paint and you’re grand

Doesn't look like there's even a window in that room. Can't see any sort of extraction either. And by building a wet room, all that moisture is either going up or down, following the lovely curvature of the ceiling.

Have some cold showers until you get your extraction sorted.

Okay Butters. Got any comic suggestions while we're talking about your shelf?

Excess grout where the wall meets the ceiling? Or is that mold all over the place?

Of course. I've just seen regulations for lower/ higher installations changed to accommodate ageing and disability related mobility issues. Lower light switches, higher electrical outlets etc.

Tankless electric use resistance heaters which costs $$$$ to use, and need high current wire and breakers which costs $$$$ to install. Tankless gas, if you've got a sufficient gas line (can go up to 199kBTU) only need a little electricity.

I would be concerned. The instructions for your exact model will be available on the internet. My Triton shower instructions say it must be at least 1m up from the tray but I think that's just for UK water backflow regulations so might not apply to you. The instructions also say "Position the unit where it will NOT be in direct contact with water from the showerhead" which suggests it might only be splashproof. Inside the unit between the front and back cover there are plastic lips etc which look like they are designed to divert water away from the internal components, but that's probably only good for splashes, not constant spray. Mine is a 240V 10.5kW shower so must pull 44A, it's on a 45A breaker. I wouldn't want to risk making my body any part of that circuit.

Is it that we haven't added food processors to our sinks yet?

No it's not, it's an electric shower unit that can only be used with high pressure water. There is no pump inside, just a constant rated water heater (normally 7.5 - 10.5kW) where the temperature is increased by slowing the water flow through the heater. That's why they normally need pressure at least 1 bar which normally means mains water pressure or a tank 10m above.

Most people here get mixed up between plain electric showers (which this is) and actual power showers (which have pumps / mixers / controllers hidden away and therefore no visible equipment on the wall except taps and shower head).

Exactly. Normally they spray diagonally outward, and the head and mounting pole stick out further than the box so any drips after you turn it off just fall past the box.

Moisture proof and water proof aren't the same thing.

You also forgot to buy the 2nd drawer.

Oh I love the concept of being in a tiny wet room with a 10kW heating element.

I’ve lived in the UK for 2 years now, still don’t get those things. You can’t have a light switch inside your bathroom because it could possibly get wet but it’s perfectly ok to have this in your shower.

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It’s common to have them that low, specially in Disabled friendly showers, never had any issues.

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They are quite common here and I never heard of anyone getting zapped.

Mine is 10.5kW and on its own wiring run with a dedicated 45A breaker. A pumped power shower would still likely have an electric pump on a 30A breaker if it's on the wiring ring used for regular sockets. Both types must be used with an RCD. I think in both cases we're a damaged seal away from potentially similar dangers.

I think we’re too American is understand this post.

That box on the wall inside the shower. The British have not figured out hot water yet so they just hang a device powered by 220v right inside the shower. It would be generous to call it a hot water heater, its more like a warmer.

That's absolutely terrifying.

So basically, a point of use water heater?

It’s installed backwards.

Yeah that's it, basically the same concept. Actually a lot of the smaller wall mounted ones look just like those showers but with a metal spout and obviously lower flow rate. I don't think the water heaters are that popular here, but the showers are.

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Ok, so your using the electric tankless to provide supplemental heat when the tank runs cold, then. Here in California, electricity runs 35+ cents/kWh, so the relative cost is more dramatic. My local city is now outlawing gas appliances for new construction and 50%+ remodels, and they can have my natural gas tankless water heater when they can literally pry it out of my cold dead hands. I just finished my 90% remodel + 9% addition, so I'm well positioned that way.

Recirculation just keeps the HW pipes (and contents) warm, which should be insulated with foam. You can use a timer to decide when it runs. Gas heat in a tankless is pretty much instantaneous, but there is a "cold water sandwich" issue when there not enough mixing in the pipes.

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