Sometimes if I cook bacon and let it go a little too long, some kind of heat overload sensor trips and it stops heating. For a while. You can even hear it's different. Everything "works" but there's less of a hum. Maybe 20 minutes later, the fuse/breaker resets and all is well. You might try seeing if you can find a schematic and if there's a heat sensor overload fuse that does not automatically reset and maybe got blown during the outage.

Sounds good. I'll give it a try a bit later. This actually happens with my space heater. If something gets in front of it, it overheats and turns off and won't turn back on. I've almost thrown it away twice because of this, because even after waiting a while, it still didn't work. But I found if I unplug it, and then leave it unplugged for a while, then it works again. So I'll try that. Thanks!!

Pull the plug, wait 10-15 seconds and plug it back in. If that doesn't work, check your breakers. I've had weird things where a dual breaker partially tripped or something inline like a gfci knocked out partial power. If none of that works....it may be dicked

You'll be looking for an electrical fuse rather than a thermal fuse in my opinion, given the failure follows a power outage.

Unplugging it didn't help and the breakers were fine. I'm going to try leaving it unplugged for a few hours and see if that helps. I know with my space heater, when it overheats, if I unplug and and wait a minute and plug it back in, it still doesn't work. But if I wait a long period of time, then it works again. So I'm going to try that.

Got a model number? Appliance technician here with a slow Saturday. Lol

It's a GE microwave, bought a long time ago. 1100 W.

On the plate on the back it says DE68-00307A

On the plate inside the unit it says DE68-03218B

Thanks!

If it’s an old one, it could be a fuse. We had a big one years ago that did this same thing. My roommate at the time thought it was suicidal to even try to open a microwave’s cabinet (I think he thought it’d radiate me or something), but I pulled the top off, and there was this big giant fuse, about the size and shape of a tube of lip balm, obviously blown. Got a replacement at the local hardware store for less than $1. All that said, this was in the early 90s, so maybe I’m just old

Yeah, it's very old. Gosh, I don't even know how old. 15 years? 20 years?

Never changed a fuse in a MW before. Is it plug and play, like with a car, or you do have to solder them in place?

…so maybe, then. :). If you do decide to take it apart, be careful. Sometimes appliances have capacitors in them, which can deliver a nasty shock

Hm. Can't find a wiring diagram foe that model but I'll try again when I get back to the shop later. Also, without eyes on the unit I'll do a lot of guesswork here haha but I'm bored.

I am also going to say this because i must: If you dont know what you are doing, PLEASE do not open the case and start messing with things. MICROWAVES CAN KILL YOU ESPECIALLY OLDER ONES. The HV Capacitors and transformers can put out thousands of volts EVEN WHEN UNPLUGGED.

generally microwaves, especially older ones, are pretty simple. There's a high voltage side (3 or 4 pieces that actually handle the "cooking") and a low voltage side. It sounds like your low voltage side is working. Lights, buttons, etc, but there's no cooking happening. I have a fun microwave detector I use but the simplest thing you can do is soak a paper towel, wring it out, toss it in for 45 seconds. Should be hot and steamy. If no heat, then your high voltage circuit is the fault. Ifnit was working fine before the power surge, then the door switches are likely fine. Now this is all assuming we are getting correct voltage from the wall. Also, don't run the microwave without something in it like a cup of water. When it runs, do you hear a vibration, or loud buzzing start a few seconds after starting?

Did you see my question about the fuse?

Yup. Same experience here. My wife was already shopping online for a new one. Just a fuse.

I didn’t before, but I do now. The one I dealt with was just clipped in, so I could just pull it out without tools. The whole thing was kinda sitting up on a little pedestal, and easy to get at without digging around in the other “innards”

Thanks for the tip about not opening the microwave!

The MW makes a humming/vibration sound while it's operating. Sounds exactly like it always has.

Used a little shredded cheese on a plate as a test. :-)

Good to know. Thanks!

I had a similar experience. I found a microwave set out to the curb on my way home one evening almost 30 years ago. My intention was to drop it off the balcony onto the sidewalk below. My roommate asked if he could take a look at it, and within a few minutes, he replaced the defective fuse and had it working. Last time I checked, he was still using that microwave.

So, as others have mentioned there is also usually an in line fuse that will cut power. Usually that will kill the whole unit though. You may be able to see it, usually through some vents above the control. Sometimes they aren't clear glass though and can't tell if it's blown without testing. Generally you can get to that without getting too close to the high voltage capacitor but do be very mindful.

It's just a weird and strangely specific sort of failure. Generally when they die, they just die. It's all or none. Not something so selective

Because I have had similar experience with a microwave.

Did you set the clock? I have had appliances that don't function fully before you do that.

I had a very similar issue with a Samsung microwave.

It turns out that there are switches engaged by the “hooks” on the door. A dedicated switch for the cooking stuff part. Which had failed.

I was able to get the whole assembly with all new switches off Amazon for like 12 dollars.

Only had to pull the front panel off which meant I didn’t have to dismount from the wall or take the main casing off.

Makes/Models differ so your mileage may vary.

Edit: found this: https://youtu.be/czZHdMB5eEU

Repair clinic videos are amazing and the site will help you find the parts. Which I promptly look up on Amazon for fast shipping and cheaper price ;)

I confirmed the door switch was dead by opening up and removing it and you could feel that the switch was flat/floppy.

Apparently (I've learned since posting this in several groups) there are two power sources: a high power source for the part that cooks, and a low power source, for everything else. So that explains why part of it works, but it doesn't cook.

I've had power outages before and they worked again without resetting the clock. It would say "PF" on the screen, and then I'd press Clear, and everything would be fine.

Thanks!

Your roommate knew that microwaves can store thousands of volts that absolutely can kill you. Even when unplugged. Do not go blindly poking around the inside of a microwave.

I have a similar problem. At first unplugging brought it back, but soon it became brain dead and needed to be reset a lot. Eventually it had but one function left - add minute. So now, I heat everything in multiples of minutes. And yes, it is time for a new one, but it is 8th on my list of things to avoid doing right now.

LOL Great story! Sounds like what I would do.

Looked around at web sites. I see WalMart has a 1000W unit for $70. I think I'll probably just do that.

You must have a very short list of jobs to put off. Of course sometimes effort must be made.

Not sure I'm following you. In my case, I can't use my MW at all, so it's a high priority. If I had the one-minute thing that you have, then I'd probably do that as well.

> (I think he thought it’d radiate me or something),

It won't irradiate you, but there are some nasty-ass transformers(and perhaps capacitors?) in there that you do not want to fuck with

I agree that I am better off with my one function oven. Mostly it was a chance to demonstrate true procrastination. You could get a counter top modal and use the wall mounted one for storage. Would save the install

Capacitors will drop a fool

So will transformers (esp at the spicy voltages that magnetrons run at)

I don't have a wall-mounted one. The only one I have, the one that's non-functional, is a counter-top model.

No problem, just stack them double-decker.

No, I would take the broken one to the dumpster and toss it! LOL Why would I keep it??

Well, there is that long walk to the dumpster, and it can weigh well over 5 pounds. Have you considered using it in the garage for tool storage?

I don't have a garage (apt). I just take it to my car and drive it to the dumpster. :-)

I like it. You can do it on the way to Walmart.

Yeah, exactamundo! :-)

Has it a clock? Then the clock has to be set, else it won't work.

Schrödingers microwave lol

LOL

Not with my model. I've lost power many times. Never had to reset the clock to get it to work. I haven't had the clock set in about a decade.

volts don't kill you, amps do.

The fall doesn’t kill you, it’s the sudden stop at the end.

TIL. A moment of silence for home's dead MW

bowing head

Spoken like someone who doesn't actually know anything and is minimizing the real danger of exposing your body to 4000 volts. Guns don't kill people, bullets do. That's you.

When ours died with similar symptoms it turned out to be a high voltage capacitor.

Interesting. Rather than mess with it, I decided just to buy a new one. I think this one was 20 years old anyway. Found one on sale at Target for $75. So, probably simpler than trying to fix this old one. Guess I should delete this post now.

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voltage and amperage are two different things, volts don't kill they hurt, amperage is what kills you.

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