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imoutohere t1_iy9muxr wrote

You are going to many different opinions. I’ll start, I use 2x4s for the wall with at least a 1” gap between the back of the stud and the masonry. That way you will have air flow and the insulation won’t rest against the concrete. I would paint the floor if it’s a shop.

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windy496 t1_iya7fiw wrote

Air flow? From where to where?

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imoutohere t1_iycvv7j wrote

Okay air space? A gap? Void? Chose one. The point is you don’t want fiberglass insulation touching the concrete.

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windy496 t1_iydk71b wrote

Why?

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imoutohere t1_iydknt9 wrote

It's not recommended that you apply fiberglass insulation directly to a concrete wall. If you must use fiberglass, there needs to be a space between the insulation and the wall. If not, the place where the insulation touches the concrete will be overtaken by mold and mildew.

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Ad-Nauseam91 OP t1_iy9nfa1 wrote

Thanks for starting it off! Do you do a vapor type wrap on the back side of the studs to help hold in the insulation?

In regards to painting floor, what’s the purpose? Looks? Or also ceiling moisture?

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Professional-Buy579 t1_iyasgsd wrote

I live in MN and here they give us 2 choices: 1) frame the wall 1" from the concrete. Put a vapor barrier on the concrete side and slice a small " smile" in the vapor barrier on the concrete side. Insulate the framing and then put a real vapor barrier on the room side and drywall it. The " smile" allows any vapor that infiltrates the insulation to evaporate. The concrete side barrier allows a gap between the framing and the concrete so that any moisture evaporates from there. 2) frame the wall 0.5 to 1" in front the concrete and spray foam it at least 2" thick. Both vapor barrier and insulation. I got this info from the inspector when I finished my basement. I did the first way. Spray foam is nice but too expensive

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goss_bractor t1_iya629f wrote

You could vapour wrap it, or just run string that's stapled, or use 3mm ply, stainless steel cable, garbage bags, there's tons of options. Wrap will be the easiest though.

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fangelo2 t1_iyaod1i wrote

This is the way I’ve always done it. I don’t like anything attached directly to basement walls. This way has several advantages. First of all by using 2x4 studs ( wood or metal) you have an easy way to run electrical wiring. You can use relatively inexpensive regular insulation. You can position the wall to cover pipes, ducts, or anything else ( install access panels for clean outs etc. ) No chance if mold forming.

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