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TonyFugginMontana OP t1_iy99p2w wrote

Thank you, this is great info. Funny you should say that about the dishwasher j-box probably not being big enough. I (stupidly) didn't photograph the original situation but I seem to recall the box was not even closed all the way in the original setup, just partly fastened on one side and bulging open, lol.

With regard to the other solution, (I think) that is one of my earlier plans. I had even diagrammed that way: https://i.imgur.com/d1brqYl.png

But is it actually possible to separate the hot on a GFCI switch like that? It seemed like the GFCI switches like this one don't have the brass tab to break the connection. They just seem to have a designated "line" upper half and "load" lower half.

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dominus_aranearum t1_iy9c5g3 wrote

Brain fart. GFCI outlets don't have a bridge to break off so personally, I'd switch to a GFCI breaker and use a single outlet that has the bridge.

Technically, code requires them to be AFCI as well now, so I'd get a GFCI/AFCI combination breaker.

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TonyFugginMontana OP t1_iy9dfgo wrote

Thanks. I'm a total newb to all this and it's taken me days to get to this point, so I have no idea what replacing the breaker would entail. But I'll look into the possibility of doing that since using a standard outlet with half-hot switch wiring would be easier and cheaper.

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dominus_aranearum t1_iy9eq6e wrote

Going the breaker route probably won't be cheaper. Depends upon your electrical panel. GFCI/AFCI breakers can easily be $70.

If I were you, I'd just get the GFCI breaker and not worry about the AFCI. There's some debate as to whether they should be used or not.

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