Part of the problem is that the gap only starts about halfway up the door. So the bottom half is sealed (mostly) but the top half, where the door starts to bend, is not. I think if I put a weather strip along the entire side of the door, the door will just scrape it off every time I open/close it since the bottom part of the door doesn't have much space between the door and the frame.
Could I just weather strip the top half with something like this?
Or put something like this on the exterior?
Kind of what I was thinking - but if I put it on the exterior, it's going to have to be flush with the door frame. If I extend the trim past the door frame, to cover the gap, the garage door will interfere with it every time I open/close.
But if it's flush with the door frame, it's not going to cover the gap.
Right? Not sure if that makes sense or not. Or am I misunderstanding how to use the trim?
In the 2nd pic, piece 3 is what you need to install.
Okay, I see now. This looks perfect, thank you so much!
Be prepared for it not to seal quite perfectly until it gets a little sun warmed and molds itself better to the door. Mine took a couple weeks.
Yeah this is the way to go. Amazon and home depot also sell stuff in a roll and not attached to the trim board, and it absolutely sucks. I used it last year and ended up milling my own trim board and attaching it to that before before putting it on the house. It was annoying bc it had a lot of coil memory and the nails would rip it. Don't try to go cheap, just buy the recommended one above
Yep, just the trim being flush works, just did this myself a few months ago. You can also replace the rails with special ones that push when you lock the door, but over engineered in my opinion
Hard to tell in the picture, but you might also be able to adjust the track a little bit to make it more vertical.
Do note that the linked product is PVC. You'll want to paint that, or it'll deteriorate in the sun.
I install garage doors, don't paint it. It takes a decade for the sun to deteriorate it but one coat of paint to ruin it.
I don't believe the sun will deteriorate it. I wouldn't recommend painting it either. It can cause a residue causing the garage door to stick.
And the paint will crack from flexing especially after being exposed to UV rays š
Read the reviews.
The sun absolutely will deteriorate PVC. And the right paint won't crack.
I ordered and installed this but your solution is much better.
I have an issue with garage door closing. The safety sensors are clean and have no sight-line interference, lately I have to press closer button until the door is fully closed, or it will roll back up. This problem started about 2 months ago. Door opens perfectly
Clean tracks and lubricate the rollers, just because nobody ever does this. Then call out a pro to adjust your counterbalance spring, which is the actual issue. But please don't do it yourself; the potential energy stored in that spring is actively planning your murder as we speak. Seriously, it's the only part of my house, other than the feeder wires into my electrical panel, that I don't touch, ever.
Thank you for tip
^ this is the part.
You need to install Garage stop moulding
I JUST did this after twenty years of groaning about the gap on my door. Tapered gap, similar to OP. It looks somewhat amazing now and no leaks.
Thank you, this is 100% what I was looking for, I appreciate it!
This is the answer OP
Easy to do too. Will make a big difference.
I need this done too. Whatās the black curry gated price for in the picture? Thanks.
If you mean corrugated, thatās showing a cut through view of the shape. Not sure why itās shaped that way, but that side goes facing toward the door jamb so you wonāt see it once installed.
I would guess it's just to save on material
Oh shoot thanks yes thatās what I meant. The autocorrects got me. Ok that makes more sense, I can see it now you mention it. Thanks.
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Is there a brand or type of this that doesnāt shrivel into bacon in direct sunlight? I installed some last year and the sunward side warped so bad it ripped itself off the nails.
Iāve had mine up for 21 years, basking in sunlight every afternoon. White, not painted. No issues.
Iāve never seen a modern house without this.
DO NOT spray foam it. Iām an idiot and figured it would work. Forgot it actually had to openā¦.
I recently adjusted my door to close that gap. Used washers between roller bracket and door to shim it closer to frame. Also adjusted location of some rollers where possible and shifted guide frame closer to the exterior wall a few mm. I was going to replace the seal strip but it's in otherwise good condition and the door just needed realignment.
You may need to add the trim with weather seal to yours. Looks as if you don't have any.
Any videos you used to help you with this? Iām in a new home and the door is mis aligned with otherwise good weather stripping. Iād love to fix it proper
No I didn't watch any videos. Just looked at how door is assembled and figured a way to move it closer to the opening yet still function correctly. After 15 years of seeing the light shine through figured it was time to fix it. The bottom was tight but too was fapped like yours. I'm sure any videos on garage door installation should be helpful though.
Unless it was installed incorrectly you don't want to/it's unnecessary to do that. If the vinyl seal doesn't make contact with outside skin of door when closed then it either needs replaced or it was installed incorrectly or has degraded to where it needs replacing anyway. Messing with the gaps of hinges/brackets will frequently cause the door to rub the jambs and/or bind.
Source: decade as commercial door installer/tech and automated gate operator installer/tech for a large garage door Co.
Sometimes door studs have a slight crook or a kink at one end. Also if the garage doors face winter winds the force can easily sway your door inward because of play in the rollers and expose a 1/4-3/8" gap (upwards of 10mm for the metric folks) even with flex molding.
I canāt tell if you need garage stop molding like others have said or if you need a tighter seal. There is a company called ThermoTrak, they have garage door tracks that force the doors to press against the frame to ensure a tight seal. Here are their tracks: https://thermotraks.com/select-size/. Your first step is the molding.
I was also going to mention this. I bought 2 kits from them for my two garage doors, I love them. When garage doors is fully closed, the wheels are on the concave part of the track which forces the door to close tighter against the wall. You got to adjust it so that when it's closed the garage door is like 1/8" from the wall. With the kit they also include a soft molding seal that goes on the exterior or the door sides and top. Lastly, you then install the normal homedepot weather strip molding on top of their rubber seal. This combo will be the best to seal your garage doors against pests such as mice and the weather. If you got attached garage. Then this will most likely help save money on energy on the longterm. Such as for me, my bedroom and another room is above the garage.
Came here to mention this. Saw a decent video on it a while back https://youtu.be/h7pEGEyVBLI
This and try to straighten out the panel (pull the dent out..)
Former garage door guy here you can also adjust the track by loosening the bolts and pushing the track more towards the opening. Only do one at a time and with the door down. It may not completely close it up and you may also just need some new weather stripping.
Look at green hinges
That's literally the product to use
Reading some of these comments as garage door installer/technician makes my head hurt
I appreciate that, but why don't you correct peoples mistakes instead of just having a head ache?
Ditto! Reddit cracks me up, you (figuratively) see posts about stuff you don't know about/aren't familiar with and you're like "ooh that's interesting, I didn't know that" and then you notice anything you're very familiar with and it's almost always way off.
So apart from the spray foam comment most suggestions seem pretty helpful. Adjust door, seals/trim. Do you have anything useful to add or do you just like to complain?
Iām not complaining by any means, I just got a good chuckle from it. After multiple people giving the op the solution to their problem I seen no reason to say it again. I meant no offense at all
Start by adjusting the track to move the door closer to the wall. If you look at the bracket holding the track near the top, there's a horizontal slot at the bottom with two screwheads in it. Loosen those (and any other screws in horizontal slots), push the track so the door-to-wall clearance is a little less than the thickness of whatever weather strip you use, and tighten everything. The track is supposed to be at a slight angle that, as the door descends, pushes the door evenly against the weatherstripping.
I just put new seals on my garage door. Instead of buying the normal stuff like you posted I put this on my door. https://www.snirtstopper.com. It definitely seals better than anything else Iāve ever used.
Yes, that should have been installed with the garage door. But that's an old door, so yes, install it.
I would like to do the same, if a water heater and furnace are located in the garage, would the garage require a negative pressure relief vent from outside?
If theyāre gas appliances itās not a bad idea. Probably not necessary but better safe than sorry.
If theyāre electric appliances then, no. You donāt need to.
You need to move that rail the door travels on a little closer to the front. See those four bolts in the interior photo? Loosen those up, push it forward or have someone else push it forward, and tighten the bolts back up.
Speaking from experience installing and repairing garage doors, some simple weather stripping will fix this for you. You could go to a local garage door installer and they may sell you some to DIY or Home Depot might have something suitable.
My stepdad sorted it with "D" seal, 10mm, from AliExpress, Ā£5 for 7 meters
There are hinges you can buy which specifically are designed to press the door against the frame. I installed them at my last house. I got them on Amazon when I was insulating my garage On mobile so no link
Some of these doors have eccentric rollers which can be adjusted to close this gap without requiring any extra hardware or spacers.
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I use this and Iām pretty satisfied: Your friend has shared a link to a Home Depot product they think you would be interested in seeing.
I can't see the original photos because apparently my work proxy doesn't like imgur today, but brush seals are the way to go with this. I used exactly this on the top of my garage door where the air gap along the top varies from between 9mm and 23mm. I replaced the stock adhesive strip with the strongest that I could find and scrubbed the mounting down before putting the strip up so that it wouldn't come off easily. Because of the great disparity in the gap size I also had to cut the brushes to an appropriate length so that when they closed, they didn't trap within the moving door and pull the brush mount off the top of the door-frame. The end result is I cut the brushes down to a couple of millimetres past the door that sits behind it when sealed. Thus far, no air leaks at all., which is saying something as the air that used to come in via that gap in winter would negate the heating in the whole third of the house, not just the garage..
Duck tape
I have this exact same problem and have been putting off doing anything about it because I'm lazy. Thank you for this thread.
I have a similar door, and had the same problem.
My fix was to put spacers between the door and the roller-things screwed to it that roll along the track. This pushed the door forwards 6mm and perfectly solved the problem.
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Install garage door weatherstripping about 1/4 inch back from the edge of the opening.
Take some fir or pine 1x2 and some weather stripping and wrap wrap it around the exterior, against the door. But not so tightly it will impede the movement of the door.
Win+Pause for System About
Nah..use spray foam like Great Stuff
Intelligent_Ebb4887 t1_istb17k wrote
The trim/weatherstrip on the outside is the best way to go.