Viper67857 t1_ir1ud5a wrote
Instead of a junction box, I would put in a disconnect...
how_could_this_be t1_ir1x0ms wrote
Agree. A lot of high draw circuit can be benefit from having a disconnect near the draw. This is like a perfect place for a disconnect to happen.
Or maybe a small surface mounted sub panel? That would eliminate any concern for downsizing wire gauge, also allows for proper and safe way to add circuits should you need it near that location.
nocturnal311 t1_ir2maqo wrote
What would a disconnect have to do with the draw? Sub panel seems a little expensive and unnecessary
how_could_this_be t1_ir2o9jq wrote
It's true throwing suggestion out is free.. it totally depends on OP's situation and plan.
I am suggesting based on how I would plan it. Disconnect can be handy when you found the plug damage / arcing but breaker did not trip. Think drive out with the cable plugged in.
Or if OP ever decided to use his EV as backup battery for the house, then a shutoff can become something that is more necessary..
The sub panel is also situational.. a small subpanel can be not too pricy - small ones can be have for between $30~50. If there is possibilities of expansion this can totally be a choice
Doctor_Frasier_Crane t1_ir2t7yy wrote
Please tell me where I can get sub panels at that price. Anything in Canada is at least $150.
how_could_this_be t1_ir2x5vc wrote
This is one example. I know homeline is annoying but at this price.. I won't complain
I don't know if your local code allows this though.. no idea about Canada's rule
Doctor_Frasier_Crane t1_ir2zm9y wrote
Ok, not that bad. Only 4x the price at $104 in Canuck bucks! I was off on my guesstimating. :)
how_could_this_be t1_ir30bmg wrote
Ouch.. sorry to hear that.
If you look at similar items on that page there is a long list of similar priced breaker boxes.
Just throwing a bit more lead, hopefully some of them can be sourced near you with more reasonable price…
Viper67857 t1_ir3310p wrote
>What would a disconnect have to do with the draw?
Would you bother with a big disconnect box for a 1A circuit running a small fan? Doubtful.. But I bet you have one going to your HVAC.
>Sub panel seems a little expensive and unnecessary
I agree.. This circuit isn't really big enough to split off additional loads unless the charger is taken out of the picture. Swapping the breaker feeding it from a 40A to a 50A and putting in a 50A subpanel would cost well over CA$100 and you could add what? A coffee maker? It's best not to run a circuit at capacity for long periods of time, especially over distance, and lv2 chargers take several hours to charge a dead EV. I wouldn't add anything to this circuit...
boxsterguy t1_ir3hylz wrote
You're overestimating what a level 2 charger needs. 30A is more than enough to overnight charge anything less than a Hummer EV. Adding more is unnecessary and a little silly, but I wouldn't say it's necessarily unsafe.
rsfrisch t1_ir3vqqa wrote
It depends, my gen3 Tesla charger requires a 60a 2p breaker and pulls 48a Max at 240v. You can set it lower... Either on the charger or the car. But there is still a big difference in charging times from 11kw to 5-6kw.
It's nice to have the flexibility to charge a little faster.
frollard t1_ir4h0bo wrote
Sanity check, can support 60a breaker, not requires. You can program it to use a 15 amp if necessary.
rsfrisch t1_ir58ber wrote
Your right, I misspoke
My point was that you should try to maximize your level 2 charger as much as possible. Charging a model y from like 20 to 90% shouldn't take more than 12hrs... And 8 hrs would be better. 30a at 240v will do that.
frollard t1_ir8f0g1 wrote
Go for the most that is possible and reasonable, agreed to a point. There are very very few times in my 4 years I have needed to get home from a highway trip empty to need to turn around and do it again the next day. Overkill electrical is a convenience for sure but the price goes up way higher, and many people like me are stuck with 100 amp service. Jamming a current gen max spec continuous duty 60 breaker has ramifications for the whole home load calculations if I ever want a/c, heat pump, etc. Just the cost of the wire alone is astonishing these days. Upping my panel to 200a service would have long term consequences on my property tax bill for a super rare highway trip + turn around and do it again occurrence.
Viper67857 t1_ir3k6br wrote
Transmission loss, AC/DC conversion, and keeping the battery temperature regulated draws more current than 30A to actually charge at 30A. Also, I didn't say it would be unsafe, because the breaker should trip if you're overloading the circuit, just that there isn't really room to bother adding anything.
Derragon t1_ir3rzdw wrote
Sub panel is against code in this case as it allows other loads to be added to the circuit. In Canada it must be dedicated.
Editing myself: forgot you could just... you know, use the sub panel to provide the feed (which is allowed). The above info is incorrect, you can do Main -> Sub -> Charger.
rsfrisch t1_ir3uvtk wrote
The plug from the charger is a means of disconnect.
Forget a jb if you don't need it, using a larger size wire isn't a problem as long as it fits the lugs.
Derragon t1_ir3rwst wrote
Yup. Disconnect is required by code for 240V chargers.
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