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and-hereitcomes t1_itq0fmt wrote

  1. Those joists should be able to hold the weight of the wall with no problem. I recommend using 3/4 inch plywood tho instead of 1/2 inch. Will feel more sturdy.
  2. As long as you are going directly into those joists you shouldn’t have any issue mounting monkey bars or other hanging things.

I do not do construction personally, but I did build a home rock wall for the kids and have a 30 degree incline that I can climb and feel secure on

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ArbutusPhD t1_itqcz5y wrote

It is also crucially important for point (2) that we know exactly what type of play equipment and regimens you intend to put in place.

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hobbyistunlimited OP t1_itqe9lg wrote

Something like this would be ideal: https://dealsformomsblog.com/2021/05/16/ninja-warrior-basement/

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nox_nox t1_itsrjdu wrote

If you are going to be inverted on the ceiling holds I would never trust lag bolts or any other vertically screwed anchor. You risk them pulling straight out of the wood and falling on your head/neck.

The only truly safe ceiling anchors are thru-bolted through the joists horizontally so you rely on the shear strength of the anchor bolt. Just make sure its anchored in the upper 1/3 of the joist so there is plenty of wood below the bolt.

If you must do some sort of vertical fastener then Climbing gym setups are the ideal solution for thru-bolting. I think they use at least 3/4" plywood with rear metal anchors that bolts screw into. They are Best for a angled or vertical walls because you are using the shear strength of the bolt. But because they have a metal backing they are probably also ok for ceiling mounts. You could try to get extra large metal backings with a large washer to mitigate any potential pull through risk.

Attach the plywood to the joists with carriage bolts (lots of them). That will distribute the load across the whole plywood and not just a single lag like the monkey bars in the link you posted.

You'll have to self tap all the screw holes for the metal anchors on the back side tho. Search custom rock climbing walls for lots of tutorials.

Also you may want to double check your homeowners insurance. They may not cover damage to the house structure if you happen to deform or break anything because of your use case.

Not trying to be a downer but a person I knew fell from aerial equipment that failed and ended up partially paralyzed.

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killerkennyAU t1_ittucfs wrote

I have built multiple home climbing walls. Lag bolts (properly installed) are fine for attaching the main structure. Standard timber screws are fine for attaching the ply.

Just use lots of them. The plywood spreads out the force. It also helps if your vertical walls support the ceiling sections.

The individual holds are attached with t-nuts and M10 (3/8 inch) socket head cap screws and bolts. They WILL NOT pull through 3/4" (19mm) ply.

What do you mean by "self tap the metal anchors"?

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nox_nox t1_ituidy6 wrote

Self tap: individually drill holes for each t-nut.

Self tap were the wrong words to say what I meant.

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killerkennyAU t1_itwd7hw wrote

I understand.

That is some severe over-engineering in my opinion. No point in making the climbing wall10 times stronger than the structure it is attached to.

And think of all that extra weight!

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myboybuster t1_itrr5ex wrote

2nd this i build this exact plan on a steeper incline and 3/4 ply is a must. Metolius has the best climbing package to buy i think its a few hundred bucks and it comes with a step by step guide

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Seven_Dx7 t1_itsh8fy wrote

Just commenting to emphasize the 3/4 plywood and agree with everything this post states.

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