TheTemplarSaint t1_is13cbn wrote
Post this in r/centuryhomes. Insulating homes that weren’t constructed for it really really has to be done right or you’ll introduce issues and cause damage. Marrying old and new building technologies isn’t super straightforward. Also check out greenbuildingadvisor for expert info.
ScarletCaptain t1_is1xm4b wrote
I own an 1896 home, thanks for that sub!
SirJumbles t1_is1y8yc wrote
I don't own a home, but that's a cool new sub.
TheTemplarSaint t1_is3q5v7 wrote
You bet! Some cool stuff even if you don’t have an old home.
never___nude t1_is31wqr wrote
You are correct. My building science guy is warning against too much insulation on my double brick home. Still have not decided how to do it.
Aquarius265 t1_is3kwtb wrote
Wouldn’t the R value on that be pretty good?
never___nude t1_is3n6ie wrote
No it’s not but it is very efficient on its design because of all the air pockets help keep it cool in the summer and it’s very slow to fluctuate with temperature swings. I have been advised against making it too efficient because the brick is meant to stay ‘warm’ in the winter. With huge temperature fluctuations (summer and winter) and an airtight house with too much insulation, it will lead to too much thermal expansion and contraction on the bricks and mortar.
anally_ExpressUrself t1_isgxx4j wrote
Is your interior warming up the exterior brick in winter? If that's making a serious contribution to the exterior brick warmth, you must spend a fortune in heating!
never___nude t1_isizru0 wrote
Less efficient was poor choice on my part for words, it’s still efficient, just not a high r value to allow for some heat transfer that inevitably happens anyway. My air barrier is beyond what most do, so even though my r value isn’t really high overall, it’s enough to keep us toasty warm without being expensive - it is technically lower than 2x6 construction, but it’s more energy efficient because of sealing and no thermal breaks. The house originally relied on just fir strips, plaster and paint as the barrier and insulation. What most contractors wanted to do was either go with more r value and get there with sprayfoam pretty much, which was the worst thing we could do for the brick. So our method goes like this from outside to inside — regular brick, air pocket, 9x9 structural clay tiles with webbing and air pockets within, render, air pocket, 1” foam board with foil barrier and finally rockwool insulation and then drywall. The foam board doubles as a reverse barrier in the summer when the house is cooler than outside. The fear of over insulation was a concern because lots of new data suggests that allowing that inner brick to be ‘warmer’ in the winter is how it’s meant to work and why it lasts so long, the same research is showing that allowing the masonry house to breathe is another reason it will last so long. Anyway, in the end, there was way more insulation talk and planning than anyone one of us would of liked but it did save us from spray-foaming everything.
Elmore420 t1_is33yd2 wrote
Boy, you’ve got that straight, upgrading old houses is complicated because you can build in a mold problem that requires burning the house down to get rid of. I was an insurance adjuster on mold abatement issues for a couple years, saw a lot of problems from blocking airflow, burned down more than a few houses in that time.
jaxreddit t1_is3icyc wrote
Very much this. Doing this kind of work incorrectly could cause serious problems with moisture retention leading to rotting wood and eventual failure of critical members.
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