Submitted by RatWithChainsawLegs t3_yf06xc in DIY
Justbu1ldit t1_iu16tme wrote
Can you handle the extra height of a layer of 1/4 durock concrete board in that room?
RatWithChainsawLegs OP t1_iu187rc wrote
Potentially, but what I'm seeing online about using an uncoupling membrane in place of cement board makes it seem like the thinner uncoupling membrane would be a better choice for what I'm doing because it will reduce the effects of minor movement of the material beneath the tile. Seems like the cement board will telegraph and movement or weaknesses directly up to the tile.
DriftinFool t1_iu1hwlz wrote
I don't think a membrane is enough over a vinyl. A membrane is only used over a properly installed substrate and old vinyl flooring is definitely not a proper substrate. 1/4" durock or hardi board are what you should use. Thinset will not bond well to the vinyl and will start cracking as the vinyl expands/contracts with temperature. I've been doing tile a long time I would never go over vinyl with it. Way back in the day before concrete board and membranes, we still wouldn't put tile over vinyl. We would have used a layer of 1/4" luan. Screwing down another layer also insures the subfloor is solid.
You also need to make sure the floor is perfectly flat when using the tile you are using. Due to the length of them, any high spots will cause major headaches at the joints. The bigger the tile, the more perfect the floor needs to be. You can use a large notch trowel for a thicker mortar bed to compensate some.
As for dry laying, it rarely works out and there is really no need for it. You don't start at an edge. You start in the middle. Find the center of the room and break the room into 4 equal squares. Start at the center and work your way to the wall. in a stair step pattern to keep the tiles running square. Figure out how many tiles( the 6" side) it takes to go from the center to the wall. If the cut at the wall is less than half a tile, shift your starting point a half tile over the center line. This will make your cuts at the wall all be over half tiles instead of little slivers.
RatWithChainsawLegs OP t1_iu1i9av wrote
Thank you, this is very helpful. Especially the part about the tile length.
Justbu1ldit t1_iu1a4a4 wrote
I guess it all depends on the floor joists and subfloor. The stuff did wonders for me, not a grout line crack, let alone a broken tile in a kitchen/dining, 2 baths and an entry area. Lots of screws, fiber tape and thinset joints. Good luck my man!
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