Submitted by Straight18s t3_1279nhg in DIY

First I want to say I tried to research this, but all the wiring guides I could find were the power source is at the switch. In my case, the power source is at the light.

I wired it like this https://postimg.cc/S2ZLSCzx

The switches are dimmer type if that makes a difference. The controls seem to be stepping on each other, both switch controls both lights.

What did I do wrong? Thanks for your time!

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Danibecr84 t1_jedam3z wrote

Sounds like you might have a 3-way switch in there?

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krista t1_jedhf6v wrote

do your dimmers need a neutral?

which exact dimmers are you using?

because if you wired this according to your diagram (white=neutral, black=hot) the only other way this can fuck up is if your dimmers are causing too much emi/noise and screwing with each other.

modern dimmers tend to be digital and not a rheostat.

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Danibecr84 t1_jee90ms wrote

Either way you need to run the source to your switch. This will prevent your light socket from being constantly powered in the event that maintenance needs to be performed. This is a dangerous set-up.

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toblies t1_jeee6zt wrote

Your wiring is right.

Not sure why the dimmers are acting up, but I suspect they're the trouble.

To troubleshoot, I'd go back to dead-nuts basic: incandescent bulbs and rheostat dimmers, then start adding back your desired components.

As someone else mentioned, many dimmers are electronic now, and many of them require a neutral. Since your setup does not have a neutral at the switch, look for dimmers that say right on the package that they don't need a neutral. Rheostat ones don't of course. Also, LED lights have a driver circuit in them that does not always play nice with some dimmers.

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Danibecr84 t1_jeev7tk wrote

Negative, that is not what it's called and you haven't heard that from anybody that knows what they are talking about. I'm somewhat sure that is a code violation, an expert can correct me. Your switch or 'safety device' is always installed on the line side of equipment. Line side being the supply from your breaker.

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Danibecr84 t1_jeevior wrote

If this is an unfamiliar concept to you, and you choose to do this yourself, use a meter and extreme caution. Otherwise call a professional because this is isn't even the root problem.

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Danibecr84 t1_jefn52j wrote

What you have drawn originally is correct and should work with one switch controlling one light. You need to make sure the switch is on the line side (breaker) not the load side (after the light). If it is actually wired like that you have other issues.

The Google photo is a 3way circuit. It is different in that the switches have an extra "runner wire" directly connecting the 2 switches so that both devices will operate at either end.

The problem your describing sounds like how a 3way should operate.

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